Just finished a test drive after replacing CAC hoses, cleaned M A P sensor, performed EHM exiting past drivers door, and replacing ALTERNATOR/Decoupler pulley assembly (old one squeaked a bit rapidly twisting pulley back and forth by hand)
Unfortunately our clatterery metallic rattley noise upon moderate acceleration going up a slight grade or accelerating is unchanged occurring between 2100-2800 rpm--------NUTZ
Need some new ideas----------TURBO???????

Any way to post a recording?

Also, since it's just for testing.. consider taking off the accessory drive belt (outside serpentine) that drives the viscous heater, A/C, alternator, power steering (etc) and see if the noise persists. That would eliminate all the accessories in one swell-foop. Might help narrow it down quickly.

Alternative idea - any chance it's the bolts holding the flywheel / torque converter? Been a number of rigs that've had those bolts come loose...

Other thoughts: timing belt skipped a tooth (heaven forbid), or, EGR/FCV are mis-behaving and one or both are stuck.

The more clues we can gather, the better.

Mark

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

Thanks Mark. Problem with this noise it doesn't do it at our beckoning. It's a bit intermittent and when it does it, if you throttle up more or back off it goes aways. My gut feeling, its turbo related. We bought it at a jeep dealer who bought it at the auction, where a local VW dealer sent it to auction after they took it on trade. The V W dealer told me after I proved we owned it they didnt want it since their guys said it had a turbo issue. Too bed I couldnt have learned this during our 3 day no questions asked return option. The dealership just thru their hands up and told me afterall, it a 6 year old vehicle. Wont buy from then again without a detailed off site mechanical inspectioln, more than we do ourselves. We have purchased 4 other cars from them in the past 12 years, with great success.

You can eliminate the turbo as a possibility in about 10 minutes with little more than a screwdriver.

Take off the airbox-to-turbo hose (and be prepared for that hose to fall apart in your hands if the CCV is still factory) and once you have removed the hose... Stick your fingers into the turbo and feel it. ENGINE OFF - Gotta say this just to be safe - and you should feel very little front-to-back play from the shaft, and the barest hint of nothing side-to-side. Anything more than 1/32 of an inch front-to-back... The vanes would be impacting the housing. Side to side should be nearly nothing, or the bearing is shot and failure (with massive oil leaking) is imminent.

Should you experience a sudden loss of power, accompanied by clouds of black smoke out the back - This could be a blown turbo hose, but it could also be a failed turbo. Kick the transmission into neutral and turn the key one position toward OFF - this kills the engine but leaves the steering unlocked. DO NOT WAIT to do this, not even until the side of the road. You might only have seconds to prevent loss of enough oil (in the case of a turbo failure) and prevent damage to the engine's bottom end. Seconds count, but hopefully you won't need this knowledge.

Should you discover significant turbo shaft play, a new turbo is about $1200 from your local Bosch injector shop, they are usually also dealers for Garrett turbochargers. There is NOT an authorized rebuild kit or option available from Garrett for these, and there aren't any core charges either. Should your shop suggest either one of those words, walk away. I don't know what they might be selling, but it won't be worth the savings WHEN it fails and possibly takes out your engine.

Sorry if my post seems a bit stark and scary, I really don't mean it that way, but these engines have some specific design flaws that you should be aware of. Obviously that dealer you know didn't want to deal with actually diagnosing the Jeep... Can't say I'm surprised, but that is because I don't know any car dealer that cares to actually FIX a problem. They only want to take in perfect vehicles and sell them... Auction for the rest. Faster and less risk / cost to them.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

This morning was interesting. After checking with the dealership we bought the CRD from told me they would reset the CEL if I unplugged the MAF.
So, unplugged the MAF on the airbox to see if the clatter under the hood ceased. Drove 5 miles at varying RPM and sure enough no noise. I stopped and plugged the MAF back in and presto,. the ralttley clatter was back.
So, looks maybe to be the EGR. Now the dillemma is to replace it or do the GCE SEGR, but how will that effect the NOX for our emissions. the shop in Parker Co ididn't knowl.

Talk to Keith at GDE (Green Diesel Engineering), I know I passed emissions with mine down in Nashville, TN and MARTA. Passed the OBDII port scan and the little tailpipe enema exam with flying colors and the EGR/FCV were both disabled via ECU.

The EGR Valves are known to fail, I went through 2 of them in 24 months after the first one went out. They're a pain in the rear to change out, and about $185 each. If you don't want to do the work yourself, a stealership would love to gouge you for about $250 for labor to do it for you, if not more.

A Local shop may charge you an hour or two but even then you're talking $200(ish).

If you're not mechanically handy, and you don't feel like paying for it again either way, get the GDE tune, reduce the acidic crap that the EGR is blowing back into your engine that WILL eat your rockers/lifters and cause a myriad of other problems.

Read up on the boards here, and DO ALL OF THE MODS. Get SAMCO/MISHIMOTO/NEW OEM hoses, ASAP. Get the GDE Tune, Do the timing belt PRIOR TO 100K Miles, get the Hayden Fan Clutch, replace your CAC turbo hose if you have more than 75k miles on that engine.

This engine was poorly designed (Well everything that hooks up to it anyways) and is really a 2.5L CRD bored out, but alas I digress and will spare you the tirade past what I've already said.

Get a GDE tune now, do all the other stuff ASAP, or just sell it now and save yourself the huge pain in the rear.

Look at my signature below and realize that none of that stuff was because I WANTED TO, but all because THAT WAS THE BEST SOLUTION TO REPAIR SOMETHING THAT HAD FAILED OR WAS BROKEN.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

Hexus, thanks
We have done the EHM on the CCV. We cleaned the MAP sensor, and replaced with OEM CAC hoses, since the passenger side was very oily.
i will call GDE tomorrow and ask how the SEGR holds up to our Front Range emissions,
At this stage, selling isnt an option. The dealer offered $12K before Christmas, but that was $1800.00 shy of what we paid for it, so that didnt fly.
Havent yet replaced the fuel filter, may do this weekend since my cost at NAPA is $27.00 for Napa 3647.
At present, the MAF on the airbox is unplugged. (Day One)

For what it's worth IIRC unplugging the MAF disables both the flow control valve (the thing the driver side CAC hose hooks too) and the EGR. Not sure why the EGR would make the described noise although I will note that the EGR can be cleaned in lieu of being replaced. On the other hand the FCV has a gear driven "motor" that opens and closes its flapper valve and the gear is known to strip as it's plastic hence I wonder if the sound you are hearing is a stripped gear trying to move the FCV flapper.

Just a thought.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Papaindigo
Does FCV have a metal plate in that if the plastic gear is stripped would cause the plate to flutter or clatter at light throttle (2100-2800 rpm) and stop with increased or decreased throttle?

I honestly don't know the answer although I do know there is a metal plate in there that's apparently held to an "axle" by a couple of small screws. That said it occurs to me you can probably get an idea if the plate will wobble by pulling the drivers side CAC hose off the FCV which should let you reach the plate and see if it moves under light finger pressure or maybe just remove the plate and see if the noise goes away.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thanyou, I go now and try that UPDATE::::: I pulled th driverside CAC tube at the FCV to check to see what the butterfly plate was doing. It was taught and gently pushing closed, I could hear the gear running smoothly. Feeling the plate again go open, its action was smooth. Have been running around today with the MAF unplugged, and noise clattery rattle.
Talked with Keith at GDE, and looks like we will indeed consider the Eco Tune 10 for our stock Liberty. The cost of replacing the EGR, (Jeep wants $296.00) plus labor, the Tune looks way better since it turns the affected pollution nonsense off, so we don't need to replace it.
Only other thing we need to do is replace the tires after today's alignment, and change out the fuel filter.
Then consider a rear locker, etc.

I had a strange noise coming from the FCV a while back. Since the SEGR has it disabled it has been unplugged since. No problems. However after recently changing the TB and serpentine, a really loud disturbing chirp and rattle became so bad we parked the Jeep for a few days. It seemed the noise was coming from the left top of the engine. Without doing too much diagnosing I surmised that the Viscous Heater bearing was bad. I removed the Heater without much trouble, plugging the coolant lines with old wine corks, DON'T use REAL cork, they break off ( ask me how I know). I took the pulley and bearing to a Bearing Distributor and they sized it and had one to me in a couple of days. After reinstalling the Heater the noise was still there! So I finally bought a mechanics stethoscope, after removing the fan and shroud (thank you Aussie mod) a deeper investigation ensued. My biggest fear was something in the TB, I removed the serpentine and NO Noise. I tried fitting the old belt and still no change. Finally the stethoscope showed it to be in the tension idler, to check the pulley I swapped it with one of the other idlers, but the noise stayed at the tensioner. To remove the tensioner the PS pump has to come off using the holes in the pulley to get to the 3 bolts . I didn't see any obvious damage, Eventually I broke out the spray can of White Lithium grease. I filled the tensioner assembly using every crevice and orifice the tube would fit. I filled that puppy up, wiped off the excess and reinstalled it. On the startup the chirp was still audible, but muted. As I left it running and checked the mailbox, the noise went away! I guess the new belt was holding the spring in a new position and creating a rub. The grease helped things settle in and all is well. Good Luck

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05 Liberty Sport (SEGR, Elephant hose, Caseless inline thermostat, Weeks Elbow, 7V Etecnos, V-6 airbox w/splashguard, Aussie shroud, Bees Timing belt procedure w/ IDPARTS, EVIC added, Leather Seats installed, Moog LBJs)
02 Jetta TDI wagon GLS (elephant hose mod), 5-Spd swap, Bilsteins, TT bushings
I stand UNDER my work!