Storytime.

Drove out in the CRD to Kansas City to visit family over the Christmas holiday break. The Jeep's been running well enough with the updated fuel head, SEGR and Samco IC hoses. Only current issue is the P0299 engine code for underboost, and I suspect it is due to sticky VNT vanes in the turbo as it is a little slow to spool. Any insight on that is welcome - I checked the MAP sensor and it is very clean; I last cleaned it at 40k miles, so 70k miles of SEGR use has kept it clean.

Zero issues driving out there. As a matter of fact the CEL went out on it's own, maybe just due to the lower elevation, and the throttle response improved.

Driving back I topped off with 10 gallons of diesel on the toll section of I70 near Topeka. The station had a tanker refilling it. RED FLAG!! I've been told not to buy when a station is being refilled. Did it anyway. Got all the way to Colby when the engine cut. My second issue? I was not carrying a spare filter. Went into town to pick one up, but no dice. No filter for a Jeep diesel in western Kansas.

I primed the filter head, kept the speed at 60mph, and it didn't cut out again until Limon. I thought at a slower pace I could make it to civilization on route 86, so I headed for Castle Rock at 40mph. Made it to Elizabeth before the filter plugged completely, but nothing was open.

I ended up getting a tow to the Super 8 in Castle Rock, 30 miles from home. I found a filter the next morning and made it home in 40 minutes.

[big thumbs up to Carquest, who picked me up, sold me the filter along with some free nitrile gloves, and dropped me back off]

Please folks, don't wing it like me. Avoid fuel stations being filled, and always carry a spare filter and the means to install it.

HAPPY NEW YEAR to all of you!

Oh, and by the way, the P0299 CEL code is back, now I'm back in Colorado.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---

That is good advice... I used to carry spare fuel filters in all of my diesels, but don't in the CRD. I think I will pick up a spare and keep it in my "emergency" kit. If you run biodiesel it is especially important to keep a spare I think. I wonder if putting a Mercedes type pre filter on the inlet line is worth considering. It is cheaper to replace (and easier) than the spin on unit...

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Mike Rausch
Bear, Delaware
2006 Liberty Sport CRD 253K

Good advice. I always keep one under the seat since i got burned once.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

Definitely important if you run bio. I do, but I did not take much, and it wasn't cold enough to gel. And my bio is dry and filtered with multiple passes through a 1 micron filter.

The prefilters are not fine enough to plug. I suspect the diesel pump filters are crude as well, and that's why that stirred-up debris is such a problem in the primary filter.

I kept the old filter, I'm thinking I will dissect it this weekend and post the results.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---

I don't do all the things just the way they should be done. . . but I carried a spare fuel filter (and wrench) and a few other basic tools on my recent road trip.

We live and learn. Thanks for the reminder.

PS Mine had a PO299 code when I bought it. Easiest solution was GDE tune.

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'05 Sport CRD 107k miles. NOBODY knows everything.

That P0299 code can be somewhat misleading. I'd do the following:
1. pull your airbox to turbo hose and check for a split/tear in the hose on the bottom just in front of the turbo (OEM only replacement cost ca. $60 last I looked). While in there check turbo wheel for play - shouldn't have more than a slight for/aft and barely a hint of side to side. When reinstalling the hose be sure the upper end touches the MAF before tightening the clamp and don't gorilla the clamp lest you crush the plastic air box outlet, been there done that.
2. check the boost pressure solenoid function - see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=70602&p=757348&hilit=boost+solenoid#p757348
3. inspect the vacuum hoses running to the black tower the boost pressure solenoid is located on including those that run behind/under the coolant tank on the firewall. See topan's solution at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=61240
4. check the turbo vane adjustment rod for movement. Per GDE "You can check the vane functionality at idle in park. Underneath the vacuum actuator on the turbo is rod extending downward connected to the vane mechanism. If you pull off the vacuum line at the turbo, the arm should drop about 1/2 inch and then raise back up after reconnecting the vacuum line. It is a bit difficult to see the rod, but this is the easiest method to check for proper VGT vane moevment." If there is insufficient movement the turbo variable vanes are sticking do to soot and the typical solution is an Italian tune-up which means get the engine up to operating temperature and do several full throttle accelerations up a slight grade, like an Interstate on ramp.

Given that your CEL went out on the highway trip I suspect, as do you, sticky turbo vanes but that's just a hunch.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thanks for that info papaindigo.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---

If I read that correctly pre-filters are not fine enough to be of any use in our setup. Correct?

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2006 CRD, 2nd Owner, GDE ECO, 5V steel fast-glow plugs, updated fuel-head

Bio-Diesel when/where I can. In Houston available at http://www.houstonbiodiesel.com/ and it conforms to ASTM. They also have home brew classes!!

60 % Suburbs N. of Houston, TX - Conroe / The Woodlands Area 40 % Colorado and the West

Yes. A sacrificial filter will have to be at least as fine as the factory unit, and as a result will have to be at least as large unless you want to replace it every week. But if you have reason to protect the filter from coarse debris, the pre-filter is useful, but hopefully your fuel is better filtered than that here in the civilized part of the world.

It will be interesting to see what's in my plugged filter. I doubt it is water (ice) because the ambient temperature was not low enough and the factory head is heated. I also doubt the debris is coarse enough to see individual particles as that should have been picked up by the filter on the station pump, I think those are typically 40 micron, and the fact I went 200 miles before the filter finally started to restrict the fuel flow, and I got 150 miles further after the first shutdown.

After the first shutdown, in addition to purging the air with the primer pump I also topped the tank up with diesel and 2x dose of PS antigel (white bottle).

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---