Who is still happy they bought a CRD and plans to keep it ..

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Jan 20, 2013 11:11 am

Auberon wrote:

Change BOTH every 5 000 km.

km to Miles conversion.

5000 km = 3106.856 Miles, which sounds just right to me while using 0w-40.

I believe that if we all changed the 0w-40 synthetic oil at that interval, the percentage of CRD engine failures would be significantly reduced.

My doubts are in the 0w-40 being able to go past the 5000 mile intervals as it is used in our Turbo diesel CRD engine. I ask the following: how fast can a hot turbo charged diesel engine break down a 0w oil?

0w-40 may be able to properly lube the engine parts during cold weather first starts, but I believe that it fails to hold up over the extended service intervals our manual suggest and the many of the failures we've heard of so far may be because of those vehicles being driven way past those change intervals.

Sure many will say that my observations are baseless .... but why play Russian roulette with our vehicles while waiting for confirmation, when we can take a simple proactive action to eliminate possible breakdowns.

So 3100 miles 0w-40 change intervals, sounds right to me.

My :2cents:

Racer

bigmaho1 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 27, 2011 11:49 am **Posts:** 5

We have 2 and plan on keeping them both as long as possible. I made the mistake of going away on work for a few months and leaving my CRD with my wife. She didn't want to give it back when I returned so I had to find her one too. Mine has 150,000 miles, GDE tune, euro TC, Samco hoses, metal glow plugs on the way. I tow a 3500 lb travel trailer and 3000 lb commercial trailer between NY and NM. This little beast rocks, but it has it's quirks. I work it hard and curious how long it will last.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Tue Jan 22, 2013 5:50 am

racertracer wrote:

Auberon wrote:

Change BOTH every 5 000 km.

km to Miles conversion.

5000 km = 3106.856 Miles, which sounds just right to me while using 0w-40.

I believe that if we all changed the 0w-40 synthetic oil at that interval, the percentage of CRD engine failures would be significantly reduced.

My doubts are in the 0w-40 being able to go past the 5000 mile intervals as it is used in our Turbo diesel CRD engine. I ask the following: how fast can a hot turbo charged diesel engine break down a 0w oil?

0w-40 may be able to properly lube the engine parts during cold weather first starts, but I believe that it fails to hold up over the extended service intervals our manual suggest and the many of the failures we've heard of so far may be because of those vehicles being driven way past those change intervals.

Sure many will say that my observations are baseless .... but why play Russian roulette with our vehicles while waiting for confirmation, when we can take a simple proactive action to eliminate possible breakdowns.

So 3100 miles 0w-40 change intervals, sounds right to me.

My :2cents:

Racer

Can you back this theory up with oil analysis results that show excessive wear while running with 0W40?

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Jan 22, 2013 7:51 am

dirtmover wrote:

Can you back this theory up with oil analysis results that show excessive wear while running with 0W40?

No, read above, but 3100 miles OCI would solve a lot of the problems were having.

jinstall · **Posted:** Tue Jan 22, 2013 8:49 am

I am starting to fall out of love with mine, very quickly.

I special ordered mine new in 2005.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 22, 2013 12:30 pm

At 110K miles mine is running great. Been running even better with the cooler weather.
I've got an oil change and fuel filter change coming up. Gonna try some Lucas oil additive
in the oil this time.
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=49&catid=7&loc=show&headTitle=%20-%20Lucas%20Synthetic%20Oil%20Stabilizer

kjjet · **Posted:** Tue Jan 22, 2013 1:33 pm

All I can say is thank GOD I am a mechanic. Jeeps are not quality CRD or not. I have worked on this Jeep more thank my past 7 combined. My 2002 Ford Sportrac is 10 times the better. The last 3 Diesels MB & Volvo were flawless engines. I do however like the little CRD libbie, its fun to drive.

I do plan to keep it and keep working on it.

bigbillyboy · **Joined:** Wed Jun 16, 2010 6:10 pm **Posts:** 75

I have been happy with mine over the last two years. 165K miles and I don't plan on getting rid of it. I took the initiative to do some of the preventive things (fuel head, lift pump, etc) and have only had one CRD issue, which was the FCV at the end of the fuel rail. Other than that it was just an alternator and brakes. I have found it to be a great vehicle.

logom · **Joined:** Mon Apr 05, 2010 1:44 am **Posts:** 22

We are at 90k with ours. No plans on ever getting rid of it. Only minor problems for the time we have owned it. I love this thing!

ROCK! · **Joined:** Sat Dec 18, 2010 3:38 pm **Posts:** 156

I have a little over 149K on mine, and I agree with the love hate theory. I love her when all is well, but when its time to fix something I wish I would have bought something more common. I love oddities, and diesel flows through my veins like poisonous lead. I was attracted to the Jeep because it was a Jeep, diesel, and not easy for me to lift and chop. If it was easy Lib would have a solid axle, 38's, and... :ROTFL:

I won't buy a vehicle that's not diesel, and most of the time I prefer to build my own. I can't say if I'll keep her forever or not, but I would like to think so. Only time will tell. Maybe a duramax is in her future, maybe a 4Bt.

Auberon · **Posted:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 10:21 am

I reckon there's a bit to this. I believe it needs a systemic approach. These ideas could be controversial. A few but I am not aware that all are covered well on this forum.

I agree that strategic additioonal engine monitors need to be put in place - gauges but a lot of blokes are doing much of that through the OBD II / phone apps method or just installing gauges of analogue/stepper motor: Whatever works for you to monitor systems, but monitored they must be. ALL diesels should be afforded these.....absolutely.

My systems approach is to: install a system which I hope will augment the meticulous maintenance (as far as I can go) with TANGIBLE back-up.
This, I think is a critical thing:
In addition to various monitoring systems which seem to be growing over time like: EGT, Boost, H2o temp; ambient air; aftercooler air in; aftercooler air out etc etc etc I think these additional factors need considering:......KEEPING THE GRIT OUT and unnecessary pressures by......
+ The best full flow oil filter I can buy (I use Purolator P1 pr Mann) and something oft forgotten is the.......
+ AIR INTAKE filter seal - a in the process of stiffening the airbox as I don't believe the seals meet well enough on ANY air box. They yield far too much so I am stiffening mine to ensure the quality MANN air filter elements I use make their dedsigned seal. THIS seems to be overlooked but IMHO CRITICAL......
+ by-pass engine oil filtration (I am using an Australian system (I have it in my hot little hands and am planning the job now - space is at a premium and I do want it in the engine compartment.
I plan to move the battery and engine fuse box forwards (fabbing new mounts)...... (I think I can pick up about 3 inches) but the arrangement is different to the ones I have seen pictured in the U.S. - our brakes are on the opposite side and the air-con + battery is on the LHS of engine bay........
+ the best oil you can find (and at great risk I feel the oil topic is a very much misunderstood). IMHO for THIS motor the ACEA ratings bear a far greater significance than they are given credit for relative to the indicated life and durability of an oil while at a particular service level - not just the API and viscosity ratings.

NOTE: I don't tend to use the net as my source - I go to Books that have been fact checked and peer reviewed and in this day and age it is possible to publish an up to date book (more so than years ago when the info was 10 years old when by publishing). So solid study gives me a different view to that which I read on the net......
+ dipstick calibration to avoid further blow-by and broaching possible lower seals.....
+ 2 micron final fuel filter (after a 30 micron pre-filter).......possibly needing a supplementary pump @ the tank - remains to be seen....
+ fuel Pressure gauge @ the final filter to measure how heavily the final filter is loading......
+ more effective (than Mopar) WIF sensor to send message back to existing circuit.....
+ clear bottomed filter bowl / body to actually see the extraneous materials in the bowl - solids & liquids.... before they damage pumps or injectors.......
+ installing alternative to the (or the) Pro-Vent system using which I did not like under my hood (far too squeezy and removed from the turbo side of the engine).......
+ considering increasing the degree the shroud encompasses the fan (flexible and lower down)......a different view to the way others have done bonnett or hood venting......
+ driving the engine to within its optimum rev range - ie when the turbo runs 1500 to 2400 rpm max. This would be limited to that comfortable or "loping" rev range that gives optimum (best) torque range (if all is well - its pretty darned torquey through that particular rev range) without being too stressed. As has been said (a little differently) it's not a petrol it's a torquey diesel that produces optimum torque in a quite narrow range. There is little to be be gained in revving out.
+ shut-down in accord with measured EGT or at least appropriate idle down.....
+ I suggest these short little pistons are designed to run in the above-noted rev range - they don't have long longtitudinal supporting skirts.......

I also often wonder how many are just shut-down hot.

Not saying don't work it - just work it right.
I have some more ideas but that is enought food for thought for now.

danoid · **Posted:** Wed Feb 27, 2013 4:52 pm

Mine is up for trade. The first person to offer me...

1) 2013 Camaro ZL-1, or

2) 2013 Ram Cab Chassis w/ Cummins,

Even better, just give me one of those and let me keep 'lumpy' for everyday driving...

If that doesn't happen, I'll keep mine until the doors fall off. Then get a roll of duct tape.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

Purchased new in 2006, 119k miles: Status: Undecided, not sure if I'm going to keep it.

arengant · **Posted:** Thu Feb 28, 2013 4:52 pm

I love mine more and more everyday... I will hit 100k miles here any days... Second owner since 60k. keeping it even if I have to replace the engine!

danoid · **Posted:** Thu Feb 28, 2013 9:53 pm

arengant wrote:

I love mine more and more everyday... I will hit 100k miles here any days... Second owner since 60k. keeping it even if I have to replace the engine!

I already have.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=53580&start=0

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Mar 01, 2013 2:31 am

Same here.

When I became faced with replacing the engine a SECOND TIME and the vehicle only had 134k miles on it... I had enough.

Nobody should have to replace an engine at 60k miles except in cases of extreme negligence and lack of maintenance. Having to install an $8000 repair into a young vehicle is insane. Getting the 'opportunity' to do it a second time at almost the exact same length of operation... NO F-ing WAY.

jinstall · **Posted:** Fri Mar 01, 2013 11:14 am

I just spent another $1300 on mine for a new ecu.

CRD05il · **Posted:** Fri Mar 01, 2013 11:44 am

jinstall wrote:

I just spent another $1300 on mine for a new ecu.

Paying out $1600 today for a new transmission today. The sad part it was taken care of by the book at the dealership and the transmission is shot with only 91000 miles on it. I will never buy Chrysler ever again. My 1999 Camaro with a 150,000 miles has had no problems and I beat the hell out of it. I baby the jeep don't get me wrong I love it but never again.

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Mar 01, 2013 12:24 pm

CRD05il wrote:

jinstall wrote:

I just spent another $1300 on mine for a new ecu.

Paying out $1600 today for a new transmission today. The sad part it was taken care of by the book at the dealership and the transmission is shot with only 91000 miles on it. I will never buy Chrysler ever again. My 1999 Camaro with a 150,000 miles has had no problems and I beat the hell out of it. I baby the jeep don't get me wrong I love it but never again.

That sucks, out of curiosity, did you get the jeep brand new? Just wonder what could happen to that trany to fail so soon...

CRD05il · **Posted:** Fri Mar 01, 2013 12:43 pm

No but I got know the 70 year old lady and she took really good care of it and did everything that the dealership told her to do oil at 3,000 and transmission at 36,000. But I have seen on the forum that many of us have started to have transmission problems and had them rebuild.

Who is still happy they bought a CRD and plans to keep it ..

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