Whooshing sound under acceleration

WWV · **Joined:** Mon May 15, 2006 1:01 pm **Posts:** 121

Also getting the low pressure turbo error code. Assuming that one of my turbo hoses has developed crack. How difficult to change out? Can someone give me general area to look so I'm can zero right in?

I did the EHM about 20k and then took it off for emmissions but got lazy and didn't put it back on for about 20k miles. I now sit at 106k on my 4% wrong odometer. :-(

Anyways, thanks in advance.
WWV

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2013 11:03 am

There are three hoses you need to remove and inspect.
First, the hose that runs from the air filter box to the turbo inlet.
Second, the hose that runs from the turbo outlet to the intercooler.
Third, the hose that runs from the intercooler to the engine intake.

WWV · **Joined:** Mon May 15, 2006 1:01 pm **Posts:** 121

Got it thanks. Anyone got engine diagram so I can make sure I'm looking at right hoses? I haven't dug around this engine in quite some time and feeling uneasy.

WWV

WWV · **Joined:** Mon May 15, 2006 1:01 pm **Posts:** 121

visual inspection from underneath shows mucho oil in front of turbo. I'm going to remove and inspect best I can. If hoses are ok, should I just clean and reinstall? Is there sealant or other I should be using to ensure no air leaks?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2013 12:42 pm

With the hoses off, squeeze them and look for holes and cracks.
While you have the hoses off the turbo, reach your fingers inside and try to wiggle the shaft.
Excessive movement is bad.

WWV · **Joined:** Mon May 15, 2006 1:01 pm **Posts:** 121

Thanks....Will be pulling off this weekend. Anybody got part #'s on new hoses?

WWV

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2013 1:46 pm

Comments:
1. see Sam's NOOB guide (viewtopic.php?f=5&t=54207) 1s image for the turbo to intercooler hose (it's the one with the woven covering just left of the tstat. The one from the intercooler to the FCV is barely visibile in the extreme lower right corner of the same image and the other end of this hose attaches to the FCV and can be seen in 4th picture below the right hand plug on the alternator. Chances are they are oil soaked and squishy in which case even if you cannot find holes they need replacing. Holes almost always are on the bottom and not visible unless you remove the woven covering and manipulate the hose. IMHO the best replacement is at http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?category=328 . Pick your color and the cost is about the same as OEM but quality is much better. If you have the OEM clamps with a smooth inner (hose side) surface you don't need the Samco clamps although I got them anyway. FYI these hoses lack witness marks so be careful putting them on the make sure they don't rub on anything (twist as needed to clear) and be sure the intercooler clamps are fully on the plastic outlets and don't gozilla them down to avoid crushing the plastic. Run the clamps down snug and recheck in a few days.
2. turbo to air box hose tends to rot and tear on bottom just in front of turbo. See viewtopic.php?f=5&t=60636 for pics and PNs. As above be careful on reconnecting to plastic airbox outlet to be sure the hose it touching the MAF sensor before tightening.
3. X2 on checking turbo wheel. May have slight amount of for/aft play (like thickness of a playing card or less) but no more than barely perceptible side to side play (just a hint of a feel or less)

WWV · **Joined:** Mon May 15, 2006 1:01 pm **Posts:** 121

Perfect papa. I went through and it looks like the Samco parts are only $12 more. I found the part from mopar from airbox as well for $42.

I will now leave my EHM on full and change out hoses.

If that turbo is bad, how screwed am I?

WWV

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2013 2:34 pm

I doubt the turbo is bad but turbo failures have been know to starve the bottom end of the engine which causes rods to come apart. Checking turbo shaft play while you are in there is just a good thing to do and in all honesty probably should be done at each 6,000 mile oil change (I know and I'm bad too). New turbo (IDParts) ca. $1,150 plus 2-3 hrs labor. I'd bet the whooshing sound under power is boost blowing out a CAC hose hole(s)

At 106,000 miles I'd be more concerned about whether or not you have done the timing belt job?

WWV · **Joined:** Mon May 15, 2006 1:01 pm **Posts:** 121

I have not done the timing belt....ugh. What's the link to that one? Consequences?

WWV

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2013 3:18 pm

Diesel engines are "interference" engines hence when they jump time (belt slips or breaks) the pistons and the valves try to occupy the same space result :grim:

. On our VM engine the valve rockers are designed to collapse when the valve hits the piston to save the pistons but that likely will cost 16 valves with replacement costs, depending on source of supply, running $400-800 just for the valves and lifters plus labor. Go to viewtopic.php?f=5&t=54207 and search for "timing" to find a how to and what happens when you don't.

At your mileage you are well into the borrowed time range and I'd STRONGLY recommend a timing belt like right now if not sooner. IDParts sells a kit and GDE rents the tools or depending on your location you might find a willing member with experience and tools. The minimum job is just the TB which runs ca. $75 for a Gates belt from Amazon.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

Here is a link to the timing belt proceedure we have:

http://www.greendieselengineering.com/f ... st/72.page

You are going to become an expert on the CRD in short order. Trial by fire it seems. Timing belt and associated hardware should be changed at 100,000 miles. Changing the water pump is also recommended at that time. It also could not hurt to spend a couple extra hours to pull the intake manifold, clean and check the condition of the rocker arms. There have been wear issues noted with the rocker arms on these engines. Are you handy with the wrench? I hope so. Good luck! Caution: The CRD can be habit forming.

Big Montana · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2013 9:35 pm

WWV wrote:

visual inspection from underneath shows mucho oil in front of turbo. I'm going to remove and inspect best I can. If hoses are ok, should I just clean and reinstall? Is there sealant or other I should be using to ensure no air leaks?

I had tons of oil dumping down the front of my turbo until I replaced my factory hoses with Samcos. I was worried that I had a serious leak, but that was 40k ago, and I have no oil by the turbo... On the driver's side I do, but that's a different story.

There's a lot of oil going through due to the CCV system.

Whooshing sound under acceleration

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