Yes there is another thread on block heaters.
The stealership did not have one to buy and it was 4+ days away.
Anyone have an idea?
Going to check the cord, a separate item, according to the dealer.
It is below zero and brrrrr here.
Here is a good thread on the subject with part numbers.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=58544

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'06 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD with: GDE Hot Flash and Tranny Flash, ehm, Cummins fuel pump, 3" Magnaflow muff, Moog K3199's, Skids, 225-75-16 10 ply, OME springs, Euro T/C, Shift kit, Trans cooler w/thermal bypass, Bigboy bkt, Samco CAC, Brake controller, Trans temp gauge, Al's Upper Arms

I have an idea...move the wife's car outside and put the Jeep in the garage!

I take it you have tested the block heater and found it bad? You noted you were going to check the cord. I would verify the parts were bad before I got out the money hose.

If the part is 4 days out, I doubt your going to do much better anywhere else...unless you want to pay some nice overnight shipping fees.

Good luck.

Billy

The old heat gun/ hairdyer in the intake works pretty well.

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

Old electric blanket wrapped around the intake manifold/head for a couple hours?

Dan

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2005 Silver CRD Limited
245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
Fumoto drain | ProVent CCV Filter
Stanadyne FM100 filter | Cummins fuel pump
GDE Eco | SEGR | BoulderBars | FrankenLift | Frankenskids

a 100w bulb in a trouble light with steel cage will keep the block warm.

keep it away from plastic, and it can hang, thats better

I've never heard of anybody having the block heater itself fail, although I've heard several accounts of the cord being damaged and failing. I'd check it for continuity before I replaced either.

I know that the heater draws 400 watts. If you have or can borrow a Kill-A-Watt meter, that will tell you if it's working.

If you have a VOM, I believe the resistance is 38 ohms (there is a mention of the value somewhere on here. But in any case, if it isn't connected somehow, it'll read infinite resistance, or some value way above 38.

If it is working, your CRD should fire right up only a couple seconds cranking after only a couple hours on the heater, down to at least 10° F, and while it may take a bit longer if it is below zero, the fact remains that if it doesn't, and the heater is connected (see above), then you have some other issue(s).

Try putting a battery charger on the battery (on a timer one hour) before starting.

I would think they would have some sort of generic heater you can get at a parts store, weather its an oil pan heater or an inline coolant heater. I know some airports hook up something simular to dryer hose to a basic kerosene heater and blow hot air in the engine bay of the smaller cessna's for 5-10 minutes in the winter to heat them up.

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2008 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
2.5 Teraflex Lift
35" MT/R's

Lifted CRD - SOLD

Great suggestions guys, thanks.
Thinking lightbulb, check wiring, pan heating blanket, going somewhere warm.
Having to crawl under really sucks, to check the plug.

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'06 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD with: GDE Hot Flash and Tranny Flash, ehm, Cummins fuel pump, 3" Magnaflow muff, Moog K3199's, Skids, 225-75-16 10 ply, OME springs, Euro T/C, Shift kit, Trans cooler w/thermal bypass, Bigboy bkt, Samco CAC, Brake controller, Trans temp gauge, Al's Upper Arms