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 Post subject: Re: This is why we change our belts at or before 100k
PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 7:45 pm 
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TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.


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 Post subject: Re: This is why we change our belts at or before 100k
PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 9:24 pm 
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Location: Roanoke VA.
I almost forgot, I think just about every rocker bearing was loose I'm happy I got a full set of 16. Its truly a wonder the poor thing started at all. Also the #1 Cyl. glow plug was missing about a 1/4" off the tip I was worried that it might have happened and might have caused damage and or caused the engine to skip time if it got caught in the valve but everything seems to be just fine so I guess there is nothing to worry about at this time, but I'll know for sure when I start driving it.

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John G.
2011 Dodge Avenger 3.6L
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited(welcome to the family)
1992 Dodge D250 Cummings
1966 M151 A1
1961 Corvair Monza coupe


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 Post subject: Re: This is why we change our belts at or before 100k
PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 10:36 pm 
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Location: Western, PA
Nice work!!! Well i guess i would have made some $$$ on that bet after all!

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05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI


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 Post subject: Re: This is why we change our belts at or before 100k
PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 10:40 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 06, 2007 9:51 pm
Posts: 6302
Location: Somewhere between Heaven and Hell... But it is really hot here on Earth...
If it survives at least 25 miles of a test drive, it should survive... For as many miles as it wants to. This being the engine that we know it to be, that number could be almost anything. Hopefully ranging to very high numbers, you certainly have worked hard enough to earn it.

Very glad it started up smoothly for you!

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.


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 Post subject: Re: This is why we change our belts at or before 100k
PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 9:34 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2012 1:51 am
Posts: 71
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Ok well I have just about everything back together, I changed the oil fuel filter and went to add antifreeze and Crap I have a leak from ... guess where.... The Freakin' water pump!!! I'm guessing the stupid gasket must have moved on me when I put it in, I know it was just fine before putting it in but you never know. Also has anyone else had a problem putting the intake back on the valve cover, I spend over an hour trying to get it to seat right I still don't think its right but I dont' want to break any bolts off up in there, any thoughts?

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John G.
2011 Dodge Avenger 3.6L
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited(welcome to the family)
1992 Dodge D250 Cummings
1966 M151 A1
1961 Corvair Monza coupe


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 Post subject: Re: This is why we change our belts at or before 100k
PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 9:59 pm 
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Location: Roanoke VA.
Update,
The leak which was more of a flowing than a leaking has now slowed to just 1 drip per minute or so and there is plenty of water in the tank so how or why would it leak sooo bad at first then stop This jeep is 1 big puzzle I tell you what hahahaha.

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John G.
2011 Dodge Avenger 3.6L
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited(welcome to the family)
1992 Dodge D250 Cummings
1966 M151 A1
1961 Corvair Monza coupe


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 Post subject: Re: This is why we change our belts at or before 100k
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 10:18 am 
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Joined: Tue May 29, 2012 8:45 am
Posts: 908
Location: Western, PA
saabflyer89 wrote:
Ok well I have just about everything back together, I changed the oil fuel filter and went to add antifreeze and Crap I have a leak from ... guess where.... The Freakin' water pump!!! I'm guessing the stupid gasket must have moved on me when I put it in, I know it was just fine before putting it in but you never know. Also has anyone else had a problem putting the intake back on the valve cover, I spend over an hour trying to get it to seat right I still don't think its right but I dont' want to break any bolts off up in there, any thoughts?



Per the service manual there is a torque process. If you use, it will pull it down on to the rockers even with no issue. I hope you used guide pins? With the pins and following the manual it goes on easy.

_________________
05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI


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 Post subject: Re: This is why we change our belts at or before 100k
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 12:56 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2012 1:51 am
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Good Morning thanks for the reply however my problem is not with the intake/valve cover its only with the little POS intake pipe which bolts to the intake/valve cover, you know the one with all bolts downward and in an almost impossible angle to get to, and the stupid clamp that the EGR pipe connects with the valve (FFV or CCV I can't remember what its called) Those are my problem points. The leak has stopped as of this morning even running her this morning for a while still no leaky leaky.

_________________
John G.
2011 Dodge Avenger 3.6L
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited(welcome to the family)
1992 Dodge D250 Cummings
1966 M151 A1
1961 Corvair Monza coupe


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 Post subject: Re: This is why we change our belts at or before 100k
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 5:06 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 29, 2012 8:45 am
Posts: 908
Location: Western, PA
O.....I see. Ya they are not fun. after the 2nd time i had that apart. My EGR was LOST and never put back on.

_________________
05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: This is why we change our belts at or before 100k
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 6:28 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2012 1:51 am
Posts: 71
Location: Roanoke VA.
Hi Kjjet, you are the second person to say you removed the egr so I guess my question to you is .... What did you do, I really really really hate that pipe so anything I can do to get rid of that would make me a happy camper. Thanks for the input.

_________________
John G.
2011 Dodge Avenger 3.6L
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited(welcome to the family)
1992 Dodge D250 Cummings
1966 M151 A1
1961 Corvair Monza coupe


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 Post subject: Re: This is why we change our belts at or before 100k
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 6:40 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 29, 2012 8:45 am
Posts: 908
Location: Western, PA
saabflyer89 wrote:
Hi Kjjet, you are the second person to say you removed the egr so I guess my question to you is .... What did you do, I really really really hate that pipe so anything I can do to get rid of that would make me a happy camper. Thanks for the input.



The best way it fix it is to remove the EGR for good. (this is what i did)

1. Remove the pipe from the exhaust (clamp) and EGR valve (two bolts)
2. Take the pipe to a welder, have him cut the pipe to 1 inch
long at the exhaust side and weld it shut.
3. Install the 1 inch long pipe with the original clamp.
You could be done at this point if you place a cover on the EGR with the two bolts. But i would continue.
4. Completly remove the EGR, cooler and intake elbow with the butterfly valve.
5. Install a heater hose from the line that went to the EGR, now directly to the Head.
6. Remove the butterfly valve from the elbow and remove the flange from the valve. (the flange is where the intake hose clamps to)
7. With 4 new smaller bolts and sealant bolt the flange directly to the elbow. (eliminating the valve)
8. On the lower side of elbow you will need to reinstall the clamp with a small blocking plate. (I made a small disk from sheet alum. You may want to file down the elbow a little for fitting)
9. Install the elbow to the intake and hookup the intake hose. (there is room for the hose to pull up a bit and fit without the valve)

There you go... no EGR system!

_________________
05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: This is why we change our belts at or before 100k
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 7:20 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2012 1:51 am
Posts: 71
Location: Roanoke VA.
That doesn't sound to bad I think I might just do that, 1 question though, if I remove the EGR system will that do any harm to anything If I haven't done the GDE Tune yet or is there any other problems that may come from this. I'm not worried about emissions testing as we don't have them here thanks.

_________________
John G.
2011 Dodge Avenger 3.6L
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited(welcome to the family)
1992 Dodge D250 Cummings
1966 M151 A1
1961 Corvair Monza coupe


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 Post subject: Re: This is why we change our belts at or before 100k
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 7:36 pm 
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LOST Junkie

Joined: Tue May 29, 2012 8:45 am
Posts: 908
Location: Western, PA
Yes...sorry i thought you had a GDE tune. You will have a check engine light, you need a GDE tune.

_________________
05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: This is why we change our belts at or before 100k
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 8:53 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2012 1:51 am
Posts: 71
Location: Roanoke VA.
will there be any harm in running the jeep a few weeks until i get the GDE tune with the EGR system removed?

_________________
John G.
2011 Dodge Avenger 3.6L
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited(welcome to the family)
1992 Dodge D250 Cummings
1966 M151 A1
1961 Corvair Monza coupe


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 Post subject: Re: This is why we change our belts at or before 100k
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 10:32 pm 
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LOST Junkie

Joined: Tue May 29, 2012 8:45 am
Posts: 908
Location: Western, PA
There are several things that give you a CEL, So with it on you wont know if you have a different problem? Your call

_________________
05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI


Top
 Profile  
 
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