Just did the head gasket and valve train
Did a custom GDE tune "hot but with limited tq on TC lock-up"
problems from last wrenching:
I dropped and could never find the clip that hold the EGR pipe to the back of the head (currently running without it)
I broke a bolt that holds the skid pan to the cross member.
Even with the "limited torque on TC lock-up" I'm getting the shudder.
Also, my oil drain threads are stripped. they've been tapped to something bigger.
So here's the plan.............
Use the GDE method to remove the trans.
While the trans is in the backed off position, remove the oil pan.
- Drill and Tap new threads for a drain, and install a Fumoto
http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-104-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003VCEK6E- Drill and tap a new drain for a bypass filter thinking this one
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/by-pass/filters-and-mounts/single-remote-bypass-kit/with the pan removed, I could also jbweld the threads in place for added protection from leaks (depending on how bad the drain threads are right now it may or may not be necessary)
-install a new EGR pipe clip
http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=29_124&products_id=3264Then of course the transmission:
New TC: (still trying to figure out source here)
New pump: (Not sure I really need one, but everyone says to change it soooo...)
While it's apart, I plan to send my ECU BACK to keith, and have him go for a full on hot flash (might even ask him about a hot + flash)
Do you guys think I will have any problem getting that clip reinstalled and getting the oil-pan on and off with the transmission removed? I'm hoping with the trans out of the way, I could remove the oil pan without having to take out the front diff.....
Also, what do you guys think about a single bypass filter installed that way? I'm going to source from either an oil filter sandwedge or the oil pressure sender, and drain back directly into the pan.