Front Axle Shaft Seals

Gokeeper · **Posted:** Sat Jan 12, 2013 11:37 pm

I need both front axle shaft seals Passenger and Driver. Mopar Part number 05066066AA are there any alternatives? I cant seam to find anything at any of the parts stores. Since Tomorrow is Sunday dealer is out. Any help is appreciated.

Gokeeper · **Posted:** Fri Jan 18, 2013 10:58 am

Found you have the choice of a

Spicer 50608
Mopar 5066066AA
Crown CRO5066066AA
Yukon YMSS1017
Omix 16534.12

I coudn't find any locally or cross any parts to another seal.

The Mopar seal its has a National seal logo and part number 50608 However National does not claim to make them.

So I ended up ordering the seal.

Thanks Maybe this info will Help someone else out.

bigjimslade · **Joined:** Thu Jan 13, 2011 2:37 pm **Posts:** 100

I was just informed by a local garage that I need to replace a seal on the passenger side. I've been having some dripping for several weeks now but just now had time to get it checked. Is there a possibility of it being more than that? He showed me how there was a lot movement and play in it that shouldn't be there (compared to the other side). I'm just hoping it won't end up being a major expense...well, at least not more than the $120-$230 (with bearings) estimate that they gave me.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Gokeeper · **Posted:** Fri Jan 18, 2013 1:58 pm

From looking at my front end all week. Wheel Bearings go bad replaced mine with Timken, The bearing is sealed you must replace the whole hub. I found the Timkens on amazon for 150 each. Both my seals were bad, and then there is a bushing behind the seal that can have some play. Mine was ok. You might have some slop in your ball joints (60$) EACH possibly your tie rod end another 50 or so, and finally the cv (front shaft leading from the differential to the hubs). It seams the consensus is NAPA cv shafts rebuilt are around 60 each when the core is returned. The good news is all the above is disassembled to get to the seals so if the parts are bad shouldn't be much more labor and then possibly a tire rotation if you are due and an alignment if necessary.

Parts arnt too bad but labor depending on your mechanic can add up You can do the job your self it takes some time and you need some tools including sockets 10mm, 12mm, 18mm, 21mm, 35mm, E14 torx, Torque wrench, jack and stands, Slide hammer, (to remove seals) Seal driver would be nice but i didnt have one, rubber mallet or deadblow hammer. and some other basic hand tools. There is alot of info on this site for each part and also the service manuals with torque spects ect. Just dont forget to drain and refill the front differential when you are done.

04KJcjackson · **Joined:** Mon Mar 12, 2012 8:07 am **Posts:** 54

I'm actually tackling this job this weekend. When I ordered my parts from Clemson 4 Wheel they gave me spicer seals. Along with replacing those I am going to do the bearings and my axle shaft and I went ahead and got new cv axles since mine are kinda noisy and have 170k on them. This is my first time doing any job to do with axles like this so I will see how it goes. Good luck getting your Jeep fixed!

Gokeeper · **Posted:** Fri Jan 18, 2013 4:18 pm

If you can find one a seal installer is very handy on the passenger side seal its recessed approximately 4 inches and hard to get to.

I used a 40mm Socket to drive the seal but it was difficult and not perfect. I have a backup seal incase this one leaks. Good Luck make sure you have the E14 Torx and 35mm axle socket.

04KJcjackson · **Joined:** Mon Mar 12, 2012 8:07 am **Posts:** 54

I finished putting in my cv axles, intermediate shaft, seals, and bearings about two and a half weeks ago. A week later my passenger side cv boot was slinging grease, so got a replacement under warranty and took the bad one back after it was done. Getting the seals and bearings out were hardest. Also removing the bad passenger side cv, the one i returned, the intermediate shaft was trying to come out with it. I figured taking it back I shouldnt worry about what happened to it, so I held the cv axle and pushed inward in the shaft while my dad took brass and a hammer to the cv axle. This all was on thursday and the axle is still holding up so I should be good.

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Feb 04, 2013 12:17 pm

Doesn't hurt for the intermediate shaft to come out, actually its better to pull it so you can look the splines over good. I would of went ahead and replaced it as well and would of been done then

bigjimslade · **Joined:** Thu Jan 13, 2011 2:37 pm **Posts:** 100

Gokeeper wrote:

Found you have the choice of a

Spicer 50608
Mopar 5066066AA
Crown CRO5066066AA
Yukon YMSS1017
Omix 16534.12

I coudn't find any locally or cross any parts to another seal.

The Mopar seal its has a National seal logo and part number 50608 However National does not claim to make them.

So I ended up ordering the seal.

Thanks Maybe this info will Help someone else out.

Are you sure about the Omix one? Now I need one for the drivers side. Though I think the only one actually in stock is the dealer at almost $30.

Gokeeper · **Posted:** Fri Aug 02, 2013 1:06 pm

I never tried the Omix One however they claim its for the dana super 30 so it should be the same one.

Front Axle Shaft Seals

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