Rocker/Lifter Teardown with TB (Completed 3-8) WITH VIDEO!!

Hexus · **Posted:** Sun Feb 17, 2013 3:17 pm

*Bump* in hopes someone will read comments and reply.

Thanks.

Hexus · **Posted:** Sun Feb 17, 2013 7:08 pm

Are the fuel Injectors normally this dirty?

I'm ready to pull the valve cover off, although I didn't realize I had to remove the EGR elbow and some other stuff as well as all the stupid fuel crap on top.

More updates tomorrow.

mark2m · **Posted:** Sun Feb 17, 2013 8:49 pm

I've been working on pulling the head off my engine to replace the head gasket. I've been chasing a coolant loss forever and figured I would tie it in with my timing belt replacement. So anyhow my injectors look exactly like that when I removed them also. I was planning on finding a injector shop to clean and check them.

Did you get your valve cover / intake off yet? I stopped at that point. Everything is unbolted and disconnected but I think I need a little more persuasion to remove the whole assy. I gave it a few good pulls and it didn't move.

EDIT- I'm a moron. I didn't have all the bolts remove running down the center. As soon as I loosened those up. The intake popped right up from the valve spring pressure. Unfortunately I didn't lift it off as straight as I would have hoped and knocked most of the lifters off the valves. A quick inspection doesn't show any bearing wear as some others have expierenced.

kjjet · **Posted:** Sun Feb 17, 2013 10:24 pm

Hexus wrote:

Are the fuel Injectors normally this dirty?

I'm ready to pull the valve cover off, although I didn't realize I had to remove the EGR elbow and some other stuff as well as all the stupid fuel crap on top.

More updates tomorrow.

Yes...This is normal. You did mark the location 1-4? Correct? Clean them up, but watch cleaning the tip. You also need to clean out the head. I used a small brush on a drill at low speed with a little alcohol. It will evaporate. When you reinstall wipe them down with a little anti-seize. But not on the tip, copper washer or o-ring. The O-ring gets a little O-ring lube. Loosly install them untill the lines are installed then torque them down. This will prevent leaks.

Take your time and do it right is what i say.

LMWatBullRun · **Posted:** Mon Feb 18, 2013 2:40 pm

Hexus wrote:

You talking about the Fuel rail tool? I have the cam gear tool, in fact there's a picture of it in use above.

I ordered my crush washers and o-rings today, should be here next Tuesday.

I got tied up in some stuff, but the Valve cover is coming off tomorrow to replace rockers/lifters while I wait for other parts.

Should I soak the injectors in diesel while I wait to put them back in? I intend on cleaning them, you think Brake Parts Cleaner will work?

Just looking for thoughts. Thanks for input so far.

More pictures tomorrow as I dig deeper.

I used carb cleaner.

Hexus · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2013 8:59 pm

Alright, I got the valve cover off today:

HERE IS THE CULPRIT!!!

AND ANOTHER SHOT OF THAT B@ST@RD!!!!

And finally (not sure of this one's quality, a close up of the broken lifter:

You can see the top of the lifter is shattered.

The head wasn't damaged, there looks to be a barely imperceptible rim where it got crushed/broken but I see that all the lifters have that small rim.

There was a TON of play in the pin in the center of ALL of my Rocker Arms, I haven't put the Calipers to the lifters yet to see how or if any of them are crushed besides the obvious one.

Keith/GDE do you guys still want the old/damaged rockers/lifters?

I think I'm going to order a new gasket anyways, and I'm not sure yet how I'm going to go about putting that stupid valve cover back on.....

GFDI.....

Thoughts?

Hexus · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2013 9:56 pm

Updated title and *BUMP*

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2013 11:35 pm

I haven't personally messed with this particular engine (as you did anyways, lol), but usually hydro lifters that are not adjustable are supposed to have a little play, since some of the oil probably drained from them in all the time your crd has been parked. I known for a fact that some older Audi engines with hydros had a little tick for few seconds right after you started the engine, till all the oil got back up in them. But that also depends on how the head is made... Maybe somebody more experienced with this engine can jump in.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Wed Feb 20, 2013 12:59 am

I've personally used the pins provided for aligning the cover when re-installing. I've heard of others who placed two slats of wood (1x2? -ish) on either side - lowered the cover onto the wood (still above the lifters), then carefully slid the wood out towards the front so the cover could be lowered without disturbing the lifters.

Either way, the goal is to get past the wobbly and awkward part of getting the cover directly above the engine so it can be gently lowered without knocking the rocker arms off the valve stems or lifters. Both solutions help you make it to the point where there's just that short, straight drop remaining.

Improves the odds considerably.

Pins worked for me.

Mark

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

We do not need any more failed rockers. Some of the previous samples were sent to VM for analysis. I did receive 3 sets of rockers/lifters if anyone needs a set. $450 shipped is what I can do at the moment.

FYI, there should be no play in the roller portion of the rocker arm.

The VM engineer's first comment to me was, "there is no broblem like this in Europe, you are not changing your oil properly". Then I said, "you have a different oil spec in Europe and less EGR". Silence ensued. I honestly do not think proper development testing was completed on the valve system.

kjjet · **Posted:** Wed Feb 20, 2013 9:50 am

Did you inspect the cams for damage?
When installing the intake you must follow the instructions in the manual or you will damage the new rockers & lifters. Yes... there are guide pins used and a torque down instructions.

Hexus · **Posted:** Wed Feb 20, 2013 10:47 am

The Cam lobes all look good, I inspected them and there's no unusual wear or issue with them, which suprised me but pleased me nonetheless.

I'm stopping by the Hardware store today on the way home to search for some all-thread or a bolt which is the same length or longer than the studs so I can cut the heads off of them and use them for guides to place the cover back on then unscrew them from the top and put the bolts back in.

I have the service manual and the torque procedure hanging from my hood for when I put it back together. I have the sequence and fully plan to torque them down in the proper order.

I appreciate the concern and the reminder though, truly I do.

I dipped the Rocker/Lifter combination into 0w40 oil prior to installation and covered the roller on the rocker with assembly lube as well as the top of the lifter prior to inserting it into the rocker arm retainer.

Any other thoughts/recommendations are always welcome!

Hexus · **Posted:** Wed Feb 20, 2013 11:43 am

Alright I need some help with part #'s.

I need a Part # for the Copper Crush Washers and the O-Rings that everyone is talking about, I found some but I'm not sure....

I need a part # for the retainer clip on the top of the fuel injector, the clip that holds the fuel tube to the top (I shot 2 across the garage and can't find them).

I need a part # for the gasket for the valve cover as well as the gasket on the right side that apparently attaches to where my Turbo Hose attaches (4 8mm bolt holes on right side of valve cover)

I'm busy as heck at work today, and I've tried looking this stuff up but the websites are very convoluted and the links are a real pain to follow and don't give good details that what you want/need is what you have clicked on.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Feb 20, 2013 11:59 am

Do yourself a favor and go to Sir Sam's NOOB site and get a copy of the parts fiche. They are a bit funky to use but helpful.

Clip is 5083712AA
"O" ring and crush washer are both listed as "O" rings but the PNs are 5069135AB and 5072722AA, "O" ring and crush washer respectively
If you mean the gasket on the drivers side associated with the FCV connection it's 5066946AA
Valve cover gasket is 5066786AA

None of these should cost much at your local dealer. May even be cheaper than online given shipping and handling.

Hexus · **Posted:** Wed Feb 20, 2013 1:05 pm

I used the Local Stealership, they verified the part #'s against the VIN so I know I'm getting the right stuff and they discounted it from $155 to $109 after 9.75% TN sales tax.

Only about $9 more than Moparonline after their exorbitant $14.95 minimum shipping charge.

So good all around.

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Feb 20, 2013 1:34 pm

Great thread with golden info! Keep us posted, kudos to all participants!

Hexus · **Posted:** Wed Feb 20, 2013 2:47 pm

thermorex wrote:

Great thread with golden info! Keep us posted, kudos to all participants!

That's funny, I bought my Jeep up there in Bedford on the Auto Mile, My CRD came from up there. I was living in Euclid and working at the train yard in Collinwood when I got my CRD brand new from the Dealership.

Funny stuff.

kjjet · **Posted:** Wed Feb 20, 2013 2:58 pm

Hexus.. I was looking at your Pic's of the Rockers and it looks like the rollers on #3 cylinder exhaust side are worn down to the sides of the rockers. I had two like that also. Did any rockers have cracks? I think you caught this thing right before more damage occured.

Nice job with the pic's!

kjjet · **Posted:** Wed Feb 20, 2013 3:04 pm

Hexus wrote:

thermorex wrote:

Great thread with golden info! Keep us posted, kudos to all participants!

That's funny, I bought my Jeep up there in Bedford on the Auto Mile, My CRD came from up there. I was living in Euclid and working at the train yard in Collinwood when I got my CRD brand new from the Dealership.

Funny stuff.

I purchaced my CRD in Ohio at Brunswick Automart Jeep dealer. Lots of CRD's in OHIO.

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Feb 20, 2013 3:37 pm

Hexus wrote:

thermorex wrote:

Great thread with golden info! Keep us posted, kudos to all participants!

That's funny, I bought my Jeep up there in Bedford on the Auto Mile, My CRD came from up there. I was living in Euclid and working at the train yard in Collinwood when I got my CRD brand new from the Dealership.

Funny stuff.

I bet you're much happier in warmer weather. There are quite a lot if diesels in northern ohio (and I don't mean big boys with cummins and duramax), probably because there are more people with tighter European roots and diesel taste, lol. I got my crd (used) from Toledo. Was one of the best deals in a 500 mile radius at that time.

Rocker/Lifter Teardown with TB (Completed 3-8) WITH VIDEO!!

Who is online