My CRD kj is over heating but cant find out why, its got new pump belt I have done a gas test on the header tank and thats say ok???? When i go for a drive it starts to over heat and I have to turn the heating on to bring temp down???? Now I have noticed the viscouse heating pump well thats what I think it is does not run, is this possible the problem HELP

Have you burped all the air out of the coolant system and do you have the correct mixture of HOAT anti-freeze in your system?

Is the viscous clutch on the fan working correctly ie. solidly engaging when the engine heats up.
Does your model have an electric fan for the air-con cooling radiator?

The viscous heating pump helps to increase the temperature and only engages in cold ambient conditions.

You may need to replace the water pump and re-fill/burp the coolant.
While you are doing this, check for a clogged radiator.

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

If you aren't losing any coolant and it's just overheating it is typically a thermostat issue. If you are losing coolant (besides boil-off) in any significant amount that might be a cracked head.

I would try an in-line Stant thermostat (Lots of write ups here) for about $15 and some of your time before I would worry about the head, unless you are losing significant amounts of coolant.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

If you have an IR thermometer you can check the temp at the engine near thermostat inlet and radiator, that would be a good start. If you do not you will have to check it with your fingers. If that is the problem, just buy the OE tstat, or if you like experimenting with your $6000 engine, take a gamble and maybe overheat it with an inline tstat, the least that can happen is a warped head, the worse is who knows?

I played the inline tstat game, my Jeep ran too hot, I went back to OE.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

Comments:
1. what model year CRD with what engine?
2. what mileage on the odometer and have you had the timing belt replaced? If replace then when and did you do the water pump at the same time?
3. if by "pump belt" you mean the visible belt that's the serpentine belt and it does not drive the water pump which is driven by the timing belt which is hidden behind the front engine cover behind the serp belt.
4. viscous heat has a clutch that should engage (you can see it) when the engine is first started and run until the engine starts to warm up. Once the engine is warmed up the pulley spins (you can carefully touch the pulley next the the belt to confirm this) but the clutch is not engaged. I suppose it's possible if the clutch is stuck in the engaged postion that this could contribute to overheating.
5. as mentioned an IR thermometer makes it easy to get good external engine and radiator temp readings
6. check for obstructions in the AC condensor/radiator/intercooler by lightly spraying water at the grill. If it goes thru things are clear, if not clean
7. if you have AC you might want to directly (e.g. jump) power to the AC condensor fan (just behind grill) to make sure it works. At least on the 05-06 it's a 2 speed fan.
8. manual fan (on front of engine) at least on 05-06 has a clutch (silvery finned disk on front of fan) that is supposed to engage when air flow off the AC condensor/radiator/intercooler reaches a certain temp. These have been known to die and if good they do engage pretty high in the heating curve. Lots of discussion about replacing with the Hayden fan clutch.
9. I'm also not fond of the inline tstat option except as a short term solution.
10. the 05/06 tstat is self bleeding to remove air from the system and I assume other models are also. In fact every vehicle with a coolant overflow tank is supposed to self bleed. That said if the radiator cap pressure is bad they won't bleed and overheating is possible. Plus it's a good idea to get rid of as much air as possible in the system when you do a coolant refill. On the 05-06 that can be done by filling from the coolant tank on the firewall while cracking the valve on the left (from the front) top of the radiator during a refill until fluid comes out, burp the top radiator hose, add a bit more fluid and close valve to complete the fill
11. there have been a few reports of badly clogged radiators possible resulting from mixing various coolant types instead of sticking to the recommended HOAT coolant.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thank you for the reply`s its a 2003, yes cam belt and pump done short time ago, and no I have not put coolant mix as of yet not had time or the brain power to remember it, its done couple hunderd miles since belt and pump change. Its done about 98.000miles engine sounds great until it tries to boil but I never let it get to that point, and like I said done the gas test out of rad and says its ok no change in colour. Is the mix of coolant so critical in this motor??? It only has the one cooling fan a vicous one and I just replaced that as last one doo doo it self.

No, not having exactly a 50/50 mix will not cause overheating.

The failure on our engines (that causes overheating) is the fan clutch. As explained, it's the finned disk the fan bolts to.

We replace with a Hayden 2905. But, in the US we've never seen your exact engine so we're guessing yours is similar.

good luck

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'05 Sport CRD 107k miles. NOBODY knows everything.

Could you be onto something? It is February in Rangiora?

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

Here In Rangiora we recorded a max temp in the shade of 51 for 2hours in 2011 was meant to be having bbq but just sat and melted.
Still not fixed jeep.

When mine was boiling over it was the thermostat. When it gets hot, is the engine fan spinning fast, is the rad hot or somewhat cool.

If the rad is very hot and the fan is spinning slow suspect the clutch, if the rad is just warm and the fan is slow, suspect the tstat.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

Mate, how have you gone in Rangiora / Christchurch finding well formulated HOAT?....I had some issues here (just outside Sydney) and went to Valvoline to find a supplier of Xerex GO-5. I think it was worth the effort. From lots of reading about these overheating issues I have the come to the conclusion that the correct fluid specs is utterly critical.....not so much the mix ratio - and despite the good water you have you MUST use at least demineralised water - preferrably distilled.
This vehicle has to run HOAT (as papindigo said) and in my view it has to be specifically compliant with Chrysler MS9769.
Is the water in Rangiora a bit sulfury
Had a chat with the guy who sold the Xerex to me (who is also an Agricultural Engineer so we had a good sit down yarn) and he was quite concerned about the shortcuts blokes are taking with their fluids. We both reckoned no substitutions. Mine is a 2006 so it will be a bit different....I assume yours is a 2003 2.8 or is it a 2.5?

Don't disagree with any of the posts so far especially the idea of looking for localised hot-spots with a laser thermom. However, you seem to be zeroing in on it with the viscous heater comment but is there any way you can get hold of a code. As you have a 2003 model you might be able to do the key code recall. It might be worth a read through FSM to work out when it should be running.

Hey what a great part of the world you live in. I spent 6 months in NZ 30 years ago. That area heading west from Christchurch is heaven. I know I said about the sulfur but I can't see it with the volume that flows down the Rakaia and other rivers in that area. Still wouldn't put 'em in the Jeep though.

There are ways to get the fluid if that contributes to the issue - we can discuss later if needed.
Cheers

Ouch, that is 124 in Fahrenheit.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.