Rocker/Lifter Teardown with TB (Completed 3-8) WITH VIDEO!!

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Mar 02, 2013 2:00 am

Hexus wrote:

Well, I put it back together. I started it up tonight after I put the timing belt back on. I rotated everything and checked it with the pins 3 times.

It built up then let off resistance while I was turning the crank but I assumed that is normal during compression.

It started up after I bled the fuel line, but it just doesn't sound right. It revved way up when it started, then it idled down some, then a LOW COOLANT warning (of course, I don't have it hooked up atm) came on, and the engine died.

I"m not sure if I'm terrified it isn't going to run right or if it really isn't running right...

Bleh..

How about a sound bite for us, so that we can hear what you are hearing and better determine what's going on.

Hexus · **Posted:** Sat Mar 02, 2013 8:24 am

I'll post the link to a video this evening.

I'm so disgusted at this point I want to be sick. I think a valve may be bent, which means head if there isn't piston damage, which means more money, which means remove everything and chance everything again, if there isn't (brand new on the brand new) rocker damage.

Think I could get any $$ out of this and just walk away?

I love to hate this thing.

kjjet · **Posted:** Sat Mar 02, 2013 12:01 pm

Hexus....Its not going to start up and run normal after what the engine has been thru. Soot builds up in the cylinders, valves and injectors. Also air in the fuel system needs to be worked out.

After everything is reinstalled, Start it and let it warm up. You may need to slightly run at a higher RPM like 1000 to 1200 for a wile. As it warms up the engine will start to clear its self and run smoother. Increase the throttle to 2000 rpm and it will smooth out even more.
After the temp is in the normal range, a burst of 3000 rpm is ok. This sometimes takes some time to clear. If its near normal but still quite there at idle? You can take it for a drive to blow out things out even more.

As long as things were timed correctly i think this is all you need to do.

Good luck

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Sat Mar 02, 2013 2:51 pm

kjjet wrote:

Also air in the fuel system needs to be worked out.

This is important. If a lot of air is trapped in the lines, you may have to bleed the system several times to get it all out.

kjjet · **Posted:** Mon Mar 04, 2013 9:30 am

Hexus.... any more updates on geting that engine back running?

Hexus · **Posted:** Tue Mar 05, 2013 8:34 am

I took a couple days off because I wanted to set it on fire. I'll look at it tonight if I have time.

It's been over 3 months, and when I do spend time working on it I get about 4-5 hours sleep a night considering I work 12-14 hours a day for my job.

If I don't get it fixed in the next 2 weeks or it isn't something simple like bleeding the fuel lines I'm going to sell it. I'm at the end of my limits of patience and time.

You think $4000 is a fair price? It blue books for around 11k with everything perfect, you can see what I've done below. It is the limited version, everything is working good except this obvious problem. (HEH)

Even if they spend $2k and some time for a head that's still a pretty good deal, yes/no?

Problem is finding someone interested. I'm nearly completely done with this engine/vehicle.

I love it, but I can't live like this.

Thoughts?

kjjet · **Posted:** Tue Mar 05, 2013 9:24 am

It dose take time to get things fixed correctly. It sure dose sound like you are doing everything correct. Like i stated above. I feel all you need is to run the soot and air out. It sometimes takes some time to get the injectors firing clean.

Yesterday a did a timing job for a member. I try to make it fun. It is nice when you hit the key and things are perfect.

You can do this!

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Mar 05, 2013 9:31 am

Hexus wrote:

I took a couple days off because I wanted to set it on fire. I'll look at it tonight if I have time.

It's been over 3 months, and when I do spend time working on it I get about 4-5 hours sleep a night considering I work 12-14 hours a day for my job.

If I don't get it fixed in the next 2 weeks or it isn't something simple like bleeding the fuel lines I'm going to sell it. I'm at the end of my limits of patience and time.

You think $4000 is a fair price? It blue books for around 11k with everything perfect, you can see what I've done below. It is the limited version, everything is working good except this obvious problem. (HEH)

Even if they spend $2k and some time for a head that's still a pretty good deal, yes/no?

Problem is finding someone interested. I'm nearly completely done with this engine/vehicle.

I love it, but I can't live like this.

Thoughts?

Looks to be a very good deal, if you want to sell it, I'd give you 4k in a heart beat... But to be honest, I would just make sure it's a valve first, and if its really a valve, why wouldn't you fix it and sell it for 9k yourself (even though once it's fixed, I bet your love to hate will become just love)? Worse case you need a new head and valves (at least some of them), best case just some valves and the gasket/studs. It is really not worth financially to sell it broken IMO.

Curiosity, can you drive it? Or it's so bad and it barely moves? Usually valves bend at the lower part (mushroom) and just trying to run the engine shouldn't break it worse.

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Mar 05, 2013 9:37 am

kjjet wrote:

It dose take time to get things fixed correctly. It sure dose sound like you are doing everything correct. Like i stated above. I feel all you need is to run the soot and air out. It sometimes takes some time to get the injectors firing clean.

Yesterday a did a timing job for a member. I try to make it fun. It is nice when you hit the key and things are perfect.

You can do this!

Totally agree, take a deep breath, a good sleep and fix this darn thing! Since you were able to do the rockers, you can do anything else with ease! And as kjjet said, run it for couple miles and see if there is any improvement... You may be lucky, never know!

Hexus · **Posted:** Tue Mar 05, 2013 12:17 pm

I will post the video of it starting and running tonight in this thread. I promise.

I am currently at the stage where you check the timing etc. with the front timing cover off. This means I cannot run it for very long because I have no coolant in it and the intercooler is not hooked up so the turbo doesn't sound right anyways....

The impasse I am at is this: IF I put all that crap back in and put it together and run it (even up and down the driveway) and it doesn't clear up, then I'm back at Ground 0 and have to tear it all down again (Intercooler, Radiator, etc.)

Where I am right now, I reduce the tensioner, take the belt off, remove idlers/cams, remove the back cover, take off fuel injectors, move harness, remove valve cover and I'm at the head.

I don't know that I have the motivation and energy and time to do the other if one doesn't work out.

You know?

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Mar 05, 2013 12:40 pm

Lol. I know what you're thinking... Been there so many times. Where is the darn zippo and the gas can... But really, ain't worth, you know it.

If you assemble the radiator and the bumper, you can still have decent access to the engine, should you need to take the cyl head out. I personally haven't taken the radiator and bumper out when I did the timing belt, even though its definitely more space, but I didn't feel like doing it (I also have a bush grille with lights). I just put a 6x6 stud in front of the bumper to step on it when I needed access on the lower engine compartment. Which you can get to anyways from under the car.

Good luck, fix it man! Show that sucker who's her daddy, lol.

Hexus · **Posted:** Tue Mar 05, 2013 8:47 pm

Video of it running. It sounds better today, tell me what you guys think. You have to stay on the fuel a bit to keep it running or it will die, is that normal without having the turbo/intercooler/coolant etc. hooked up?

I think it sounds a lot better today, still a little bit of pop to it, but I'm not at all used to listening to it run without the hoses and everything hooked up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnxh1e_FlsQ&feature=youtu.be

Thoughts? I was so encouraged I put the Timing Belt cover on!

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Mar 05, 2013 11:32 pm

Congrats! I can see the love growing... Lol. I would put everything back, less serpentine belt and fan, just in case... Knock on wood! But I think you'll be fine. Is it possible some sensors that you forgot/didn't plug prevent idling?

Hexus · **Posted:** Wed Mar 06, 2013 4:00 pm

Well due to the lack of comments, ya'll either think I'm an idiot or just overly nervous.

I promise you it sounded nothing at all like the video I posted here yesterday when I put it back together, it popped so much I thought I had knocked a rocker off the valve spring putting the cover back on...

I'm thrilled that hopefully nothing is wrong. THRILLED. :BANANA:

Hexus · **Posted:** Thu Mar 07, 2013 7:31 am

Alright, the plug that plugs into the MAF Sensor on the air box, there's another plug on that line that plugs into the other sensor on the air box.

If you trace that electrical tether a bit further back, there is another plug....

What does that plug into?

:oops:

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

The third plug should go to the viscous heater. There is also one connector for the coolant temp sensor on the tstat.

kjjet · **Posted:** Thu Mar 07, 2013 12:32 pm

Sounding good. Get it all back togethor and all warmed up. I think your looking good.

Hexus · **Posted:** Thu Mar 07, 2013 4:02 pm

GreenDieselEngineering wrote:

The third plug should go to the viscous heater. There is also one connector for the coolant temp sensor on the tstat.

Well I already had the Viscous heater plugged in, so it has to be the connector on the Thermostat, I know I haven't hooked anything up to it since I replaced it, stupid connection is probably pointed straight at me and that's why I can't see it.

Thanks, this will get reconnected tonight along with the cooling system and intercooler.

Now to find that fan shroud mod page...

thermorex · **Posted:** Thu Mar 07, 2013 4:11 pm

Hexus wrote:

GreenDieselEngineering wrote:

The third plug should go to the viscous heater. There is also one connector for the coolant temp sensor on the tstat.

Well I already had the Viscous heater plugged in, so it has to be the connector on the Thermostat, I know I haven't hooked anything up to it since I replaced it, stupid connection is probably pointed straight at me and that's why I can't see it.

Thanks, this will get reconnected tonight along with the cooling system and intercooler.

Now to find that fan shroud mod page...

I just made a 6-ish inch cut on the bottom of the shroud (don't remember the exact size since was 2+ years ago), enough to let me pull it out with the fan on. Not the most elegant way to do it but it works fine for me.

Off topic question for you guys: do you know the number of cfm (cubic inch/minute) the mechanical fan is capable of? I would assume that fully engaged, at 2000 rpm would be a good number. I'm planning in building an aluminum shroud with 4 10 inch procomp fans, I'm not exactly sure if the cfm from those 4 would be enough to cover the big asz mechanical fan... I have a 3x10 inch fan mod on my xj and it works so much better than the stock. Maybe I should make a new topic about this, lol.

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 2:33 am

Wow.... excellent news.

Rocker/Lifter Teardown with TB (Completed 3-8) WITH VIDEO!!

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