Rocker/Lifter Teardown with TB (Completed 3-8) WITH VIDEO!!

Hexus · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 7:46 am

Well Tip here for those who don't know (I did not):

Apparently when you order the OEM Thermostat, it does NOT come with a new Temperature Sensor. You HAVE to take the old temperature sensor out of your original Thermostat and screw it into the back of your new Thermostat if you decide to change it when doing your water pump.

I cleaned the threads up a bit with a wire brush and applied new Teflon Tape to mine before securing it behind the Thermostat and plugging in the wire.

It runs great, but it starts and idles up to about 2k rpms then drops right to where it should idle.

I have the thunderbolt (Charging system?) light on now, and a check engine light. :banghead:

I did take it for a drive and you can hear the turbo working and the engine runs great except there's still just a little popping from leftover are still in the fuel lines somewhere that goes away within half a second after starting the engine...

I'm most of the way there, just need to figure out a couple more things... I never bought the Scan Tool from GDE :oops:

so I may have to take it to the Stealership to scan the codes this weekend...

I can see the edge of the forest, but not entirely out of the woods yet.

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 7:52 am

Hexus wrote:

Well Tip here for those who don't know (I did not):

Apparently when you order the OEM Thermostat, it does NOT come with a new Temperature Sensor. You HAVE to take the old temperature sensor out of your original Thermostat and screw it into the back of your new Thermostat if you decide to change it when doing your water pump.

I cleaned the threads up a bit with a wire brush and applied new Teflon Tape to mine before securing it behind the Thermostat and plugging in the wire.

It runs great, but it starts and idles up to about 2k rpms then drops right to where it should idle.

I have the thunderbolt (Charging system?) light on now, and a check engine light. :banghead:

I did take it for a drive and you can hear the turbo working and the engine runs great except there's still just a little popping from leftover are still in the fuel lines somewhere that goes away within half a second after starting the engine...

I'm most of the way there, just need to figure out a couple more things... I never bought the Scan Tool from GDE :oops:

so I may have to take it to the Stealership to scan the codes this weekend...

I can see the edge of the forest, but not entirely out of the woods yet.

If you have a GDE tune, your RPM's will shoot up past 900 at first start up. Not to worry about that.

The electrical connection at the alternator was a cause for an engine light when I replaced my alternator, a disconnect and strong reconnect solved it. Check and recheck all connectors. Go slow and you will see out of the forest.

Good show.

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 8:40 am

Hexus, do the autozone trick. Either have them scan the codes (they usually aren't allowed to clear the codes for you, but depends on how open minded the guy is), either loan a scan tool, either buy one and return it after you're done. It's cheaper anyways than paying the dealer.

Hexus · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 9:21 am

Before I do anything, I'm going to unplug and re-plug all the electrical connections to ensure that isn't part of the problem.

If that doesn't turn out the lights, I'll try the key trick and then probably do the autozone thing.

Thanks for suggestions.

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 11:15 am

Now, I think you already know we're waiting for a new video with the engine sound, don't you? Lol. Ofc, after everything is on place and get rid of the codes.

kjjet · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 12:31 pm

Hexus... After everything is back in drive it over to advance auto and they will let you use their scan tool to clear all the codes you have due to starting up without everything installed. Will cost you no cash. You spent enough!

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 2:23 pm

Make sure that you write down the codes before you erase them......

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 6:33 pm

Great thread. Great work. Have been distracted of late and have not followed until now.

O'Reilly Auto Parts will allow you to use their scan tool in the parking lot. From my experience, Auto Zone and Advance Auto will only allow their guy to hook up the scanner to your car. Maybe a small point, but I know how to run a scanner. I think they are afraid it will grow legs.

Anyways, I hope that it works well for you.

Hexus · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 8:13 pm

The thunderbolt was the Thermostat Temperature Sensor I previously talked about that I apparently forgot to attach. :oops:

When I attached it the thunderbolt went out and it doesn't surge any more when starting but runs exactly to 900 rpms and then idles.

The check engine light is on, but even before I discovered the temperature sensor disconnected I took it to Auto Zone and had them hook up the OBD II. With the temperature sensor disconnected and the check engine AND charging system lights on, their OBD-II scanner wouldn't pick up anything.

It runs very well, I'll post something later, I'm just so excited and worn out it's not funny. I put 16 gallons in her and some Diesel Kleen, plan to change the oil/filter at 1k miles because of the Assembly Lube and soot etc.

I still have that check engine light, but I'm hoping that is a stored fault code, because it's running GREAT.

mark2m · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 8:27 pm

Good work man, that's awesome.

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 8:32 pm

Good job, glad everything turned ok!

Hexus · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 9:50 pm

The check engine light went out after three starts...

It appears it is fixed, I guess I should have had more confidence in myself.

Thanks to everyone here for the help, input, patience, and understanding!

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

kjjet · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 10:32 pm

NICE JOB!!! TIME FOR A ROAD TRIP :JEEPIN:

thermorex · **Posted:** Sat Mar 09, 2013 2:07 am

Hexus, do you notice any improvement on how it runs compared to how it ran before it blew the rockers?

Hexus · **Posted:** Sat Mar 09, 2013 7:39 am

Yes, it runs much better now, idles down faster and sounds smoother overall. It basically runs like it's brand new again. It took me a little bit to get back into the diesel groove after driving a gasser for so long while it was down, but yes it's definitely smoother and more responsive.

Hexus · **Posted:** Wed Mar 13, 2013 9:10 am

My Final Thoughts (Then I'll finally let this thread fall into search-dom):

Some Helpful Part #'s:

Rockers/Lifters (ID Parts has the best price as of 3-12-13, $340)
Valve Cover Gasket - 5066786AA
Fuel Injector O-Ring - 5069135AB
Fuel Injector Crush Washer - 5072722AA
FCV/EGR Gasket - 5066946AA [Right side of Valve Cover]

You're going to need 2 Gallons of Zerex-5 HOAT Coolant, just buy it now because the coolant you drain out inevetably will get dirty somehow and you probably need to change it anyways.

Get some Anti-Seize and use it on the Fuel Injectors, because they're going to get dirty.

BUY - 2 Cans of PB Blaster, this stuff is magical, it is made out of Unicorn horns and frees up any rusty/stuck bolts in a matter of 40 seconds, my whole garage still smells like it.

Blue Loc-Tite thread locker - The Inner Timing Belt Cover bolts all have it when you take it out, put it on when you put it back in, you'll need it for the fan nut if you're doing the Hayden clutch too, trust me.

A Big Crescent wrench and 13mm socket works good to remove the radiator fan nut, but not so good putting it back on if you buy the Hayden Fan Clutch and 12 Blade Nylon Fan. NAPA sells a very nice, very thin, very strong Fan Removal Wrench that works wonders for about $26 and absolutely works taking off as well as putting back on. I strongly suggest getting one.

Go ahead and get a tube of silicone, because inevitably you're going to get frustrated and break one of the darn connectors for the wiring harness you have to move out of the way, this will help seal it up once you plug it back together during your rebuild. Small Zip ties too, something will have to hold it together.

Diesler · **Joined:** Sat Oct 26, 2013 11:51 pm **Posts:** 8

Doing the rocker / tb replacement, also replacing camshafts. Groove for retainer clip is in slightly different position on new shafts. ID parts says this is to eliminate thrust washer . Anyone have a FSM update on this ? Looks like retainer will contact the casting. Why for the change ?

Hexus · **Posted:** Sat Mar 15, 2014 9:04 pm

Diesler wrote:

Doing the rocker / tb replacement, also replacing camshafts. Groove for retainer clip is in slightly different position on new shafts. ID parts says this is to eliminate thrust washer . Anyone have a FSM update on this ? Looks like retainer will contact the casting. Why for the change ?

I talked with a friend, he says it's to eliminate the washer and account for wear.

He says it works well, no issues.

Rocker/Lifter Teardown with TB (Completed 3-8) WITH VIDEO!!

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