it wants to jump out! !!!UPDATE!!

Crazy8svt · **Posted:** Thu Mar 07, 2013 10:01 pm

well a little update had a friend of a friend stop by he is a diesel mechanic at degel truck center. he plugged his mac code reader still didn't pick anything up so we turned our attention to getting it to start . for some reason when we turned it over it would go threw two rotations then it stopped and the dash would chime. so he thought the starter wasn't working right or battery was weak so we tandem another battery and it started--yeah--.so we think it wouldn't start because #1 cylinder has a issue its flooding so it's causing it to hydraulic then causing too much pressure to turn over without help. so this weekend i'm going to swap injectors with #2 and see if the problem moves. he determined it was the #1 cylinder by unplugging one injector at a time the motor pitch would change after each one except #1 didn't change. So our thoughts are toasted injector and its spraying too much fuel and leaking even after the valve shut or worse burnt up valve. so other symptoms notice fuel in the exhaust, extreme back pressure threw the air box with a hint of exhaust smell. i'm also going to check the fuel this weekend make sure i didn't get a bad batch. any opinions or if you had the same symptoms let me know thx.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Mar 07, 2013 10:44 pm

Crazy8svt wrote:

for some reason when we turned it over it would go threw two rotations then it stopped and the dash would chime. so he thought the starter wasn't working right or battery was weak so we tandem another battery and it started--yeah--.

Crazy8svt wrote:

so we think it wouldn't start because #1 cylinder has a issue its flooding so it's causing it to hydraulic then causing too much pressure to turn over without help.

How exactly did you make this connection, rather than suspecting a dead battery as the cause? A hydrolocked cylinder WILL NEVER magically release, all it will do is bend the piston rods. Please leave your injectors alone, if the engine starts at all, there is not a problem with the injectors.

The computer on this vehicle runs through a large number of self-checks, then "issues authorization" to the starter to engage. It CANNOT turn the starter and maintain the computer at the same time unless there is sufficient power. Turning the starter pulls down the voltage and amperage, and a marginal battery can easily drop to a point that the computer reboots in the middle of cranking - and the starter will instantly stop. At the same time, a low battery will also make VERY strange and random things possible. You need good power FIRST above all else.

Change the battery with a fresh group 34R - it does not have to be the Optima, and frankly, their quality control now sucks. Sears Diehard Platinum P1 is a great gel-cell battery, but any lead-acid of 600 CCA or above (that fits the space) will work just fine.

Does your friend the diesel mechanic look for zebras when he hears hoofbeats? Look for the cheapest and obvious answers first - Chances are, the alternator on your CRD is dead or dying, and the battery finally reached a point where odd things started happening.

Crazy8svt · **Posted:** Thu Mar 07, 2013 11:10 pm

alternator is a month old battery is testing good but I know that doesn't mean a thing so say I replace the battery why is #1 cylinder not firing and sending the fuel out back --- could it be the glow plug ?

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Mar 07, 2013 11:19 pm

Crazy8svt wrote:

alternator is a month old battery is testing good

Ok, didn't know the alternator was that new, and you are right on battery tests...

Crazy8svt wrote:

why is #1 cylinder not firing and sending the fuel out back --- could it be the glow plug ?

Wait, what? "out back"? what exactly do you mean, and what gives you the impression that cylinder #1 isn't firing? I'm fairly confused, I must have missed something somewhere in your description of what is happening.

Crazy8svt · **Posted:** Thu Mar 07, 2013 11:29 pm

It is running really rough and when we unplug one injector at time the sound changes because you lose that cylinder when we unplug cylinder 1 nothing happens so that means it wasn't working right to began with so #1 is missing and not burning the fuel off RICH diesel smell out the exhaust.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Thu Mar 07, 2013 11:40 pm

Crazy8svt wrote:

It is running really rough and when we unplug one injector at time the sound changes because you lose that cylinder when we unplug cylinder 1 nothing happens so that means it wasn't working right to began with so #1 is missing and not burning the fuel off RICH diesel smell out the exhaust.

Bingo!

Crazy8svt · **Posted:** Thu Mar 07, 2013 11:44 pm

CATCRD wrote:

Crazy8svt wrote:

It is running really rough and when we unplug one injector at time the sound changes because you lose that cylinder when we unplug cylinder 1 nothing happens so that means it wasn't working right to began with so #1 is missing and not burning the fuel off RICH diesel smell out the exhaust.

Bingo!

Bingo ? The diagnoses. Glow plug or both

CATCRD · **Posted:** Thu Mar 07, 2013 11:52 pm

Crazy8svt wrote:

CATCRD wrote:

Crazy8svt wrote:

It is running really rough and when we unplug one injector at time the sound changes because you lose that cylinder when we unplug cylinder 1 nothing happens so that means it wasn't working right to began with so #1 is missing and not burning the fuel off RICH diesel smell out the exhaust.

Bingo!

Bingo ? The diagnoses. Glow plug or both

Injector. Bad glow plug wouldn't do that.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Mar 07, 2013 11:56 pm

The glow plug isn't part of it, they aren't used once the engine is running. Take out that one injector, take it to your local Bosch shop. They will be able to test it for function and operation. A strong smell of diesel out the back does make it seem that you have a fueling problem, it wouldn't be the worst to have all 4 tested if you feel brave. Try to keep them in order, it does matter to the computer.

Crazy8svt · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 12:02 am

if It's bad where Is good place to buy them idparts refurbished 579.00...Ouch never would have thought they'd be that much

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 12:40 am

Crazy8svt wrote:

if It's bad where Is good place to buy them idparts refurbished 579.00...Ouch never would have thought they'd be that much

FYI, gde sells them for 500...

tonycrd · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 8:09 am

Make sure there is decent compression on #1. Could be a piston/rings problem now as a result of a bad injector.

Crazy8svt · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 8:28 am

thermorex wrote:

Crazy8svt wrote:

if It's bad where Is good place to buy them idparts refurbished 579.00...Ouch never would have thought they'd be that much

FYI, gde sells them for 500...

Sorry what's gde

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 8:35 am

Crazy8svt wrote:

thermorex wrote:

Crazy8svt wrote:

if It's bad where Is good place to buy them idparts refurbished 579.00...Ouch never would have thought they'd be that much

FYI, gde sells them for 500...

Sorry what's gde

Gde=green diesel engineering. The company that sells the must-have Eco and hot tunes for our engines. You can go to the website (greendieselengineering.com) and email or call them from contact page.

kjjet · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 12:56 pm

Crazy8svt wrote:

well a little update had a friend of a friend stop by he is a diesel mechanic at degel truck center. he plugged his mac code reader still didn't pick anything up so we turned our attention to getting it to start . for some reason when we turned it over it would go threw two rotations then it stopped and the dash would chime. so he thought the starter wasn't working right or battery was weak so we tandem another battery and it started--yeah--.so we think it wouldn't start because #1 cylinder has a issue its flooding so it's causing it to hydraulic then causing too much pressure to turn over without help. so this weekend i'm going to swap injectors with #2 and see if the problem moves. he determined it was the #1 cylinder by unplugging one injector at a time the motor pitch would change after each one except #1 didn't change. So our thoughts are toasted injector and its spraying too much fuel and leaking even after the valve shut or worse burnt up valve. so other symptoms notice fuel in the exhaust, extreme back pressure threw the air box with a hint of exhaust smell. i'm also going to check the fuel this weekend make sure i didn't get a bad batch. any opinions or if you had the same symptoms let me know thx.

This dose not sound like a sound way to trouble shoot your problem. Swaping injectors is not going to help. The injectors are rock solid in a CRD.

Will it start at all? If yes. You need to do a Suck and Blow Dollar test. Remove the hose from the intake elbo, start and listen for poping and blowing from the intake elbo. Place a dollar bill or paper near the intake if its blowing or poping you jumped time and or broke some lifters.

Yes.. this test will tell you for your going to spend some $$$

Crazy8svt · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 4:28 pm

Yes it starts and I'll try that test take the hose of before the turbo or throttle body I think I seen a thread around at one time that showed how to do that

CATCRD · **Posted:** Fri Mar 08, 2013 11:03 pm

kjjet wrote:

Crazy8svt wrote:

well a little update had a friend of a friend stop by he is a diesel mechanic at degel truck center. he plugged his mac code reader still didn't pick anything up so we turned our attention to getting it to start . for some reason when we turned it over it would go threw two rotations then it stopped and the dash would chime. so he thought the starter wasn't working right or battery was weak so we tandem another battery and it started--yeah--.so we think it wouldn't start because #1 cylinder has a issue its flooding so it's causing it to hydraulic then causing too much pressure to turn over without help. so this weekend i'm going to swap injectors with #2 and see if the problem moves. he determined it was the #1 cylinder by unplugging one injector at a time the motor pitch would change after each one except #1 didn't change. So our thoughts are toasted injector and its spraying too much fuel and leaking even after the valve shut or worse burnt up valve. so other symptoms notice fuel in the exhaust, extreme back pressure threw the air box with a hint of exhaust smell. i'm also going to check the fuel this weekend make sure i didn't get a bad batch. any opinions or if you had the same symptoms let me know thx.

This dose not sound like a sound way to trouble shoot your problem. Swaping injectors is not going to help. The injectors are rock solid in a CRD.

Will it start at all? If yes. You need to do a Suck and Blow Dollar test. Remove the hose from the intake elbo, start and listen for poping and blowing from the intake elbo. Place a dollar bill or paper near the intake if its blowing or poping you jumped time and or broke some lifters.

Yes.. this test will tell you for your going to spend some $$$

This is exactly the right way to troubleshoot the problem, but you don't need to swap them. It won't tell you anything you don't already know! That the injector is bad! It's basic EUI troubleshooting. I mean raw fuel out the exhaust? Bad injector! Why are you guys leading him into the valve train?!

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Sat Mar 09, 2013 2:12 pm

kjjet wrote:

This dose not sound like a sound way to trouble shoot your problem. Swaping injectors is not going to help. The injectors are rock solid in a CRD.

Sorry I disagree. While many have not had injector problems, there have been a couple reported. One owner had months of random no start problems with his CRD. After replacing his cam and cranks sensors and I believe some other fuel system parts, he finally had someone test his injectors, 2 of 4 were bad and had to be replaced. He said he has not had any problems since. http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=64199&p=755888#p755888

It is a lot simpler to pull the one injector and take it to a shop to have it tested and at least rule it out than start ripping into the motor and find out after the fact.

Suck and blow test is easy enough as well.

kjjet · **Posted:** Sun Mar 10, 2013 10:50 am

WolverineFW wrote:

kjjet wrote:

This dose not sound like a sound way to trouble shoot your problem. Swaping injectors is not going to help. The injectors are rock solid in a CRD.

Sorry I disagree. While many have not had injector problems, there have been a couple reported. One owner had months of random no start problems with his CRD. After replacing his cam and cranks sensors and I believe some other fuel system parts, he finally had someone test his injectors, 2 of 4 were bad and had to be replaced. He said he has not had any problems since. http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=64199&p=755888#p755888

It is a lot simpler to pull the one injector and take it to a shop to have it tested and at least rule it out than start ripping into the motor and find out after the fact.

Suck and blow test is easy enough as well.

Sure it maybe a injector problem...But while he has it running, checking for poping & blowing from the intake is a quick way to rule out a timing jump or rocker issue. A injector will not cause the engine to pop or blow thru the intake. Run ruff... yes

Farm Boy · **Joined:** Tue Jan 08, 2013 9:59 am **Posts:** 9

Kjjet is right, you need to do the paper in front of the intake test. I had exactly the same symptoms on mine from a defective lifter holding one of the intake valves open (it was to tall, don't ask me how many times I banged my head on the wall figuring that out). I doubt that is your exact problem but valve train issues can cause it to run like you are describing. If that is ok you can swap the injectors (I have done it), just don't try to drive it with them out of order. It may not run quite right but if you have a completely dead injector you will be able to tell the difference. Hope this helps.

Nathan

it wants to jump out! !!!UPDATE!!

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