Sucking air into fuel system

4x4kingx889 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 17, 2011 6:42 pm **Posts:** 235

I have a air ingestion problem on my CRD first off I do have the gen 2 fuel head...I have a lift pump under the hood for a while now I checked all the hoses etc everything is tight after driving it the plunger go's soft and I have to bleed it again...Where else can air be entering the system at? I have herd of the connection's at the tank being problem's any way to test them?

kvong33 · **Joined:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 2:12 pm **Posts:** 4

does yours ever start randomly with out having to prime it im in the same boat as you mine will fire then if i try to start it imediatly after shutting it off it wont start ill have to let it sit for 30 seconds

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Mon Mar 11, 2013 10:25 pm

The snap together connectors by the tank are often the problem.
In tank pump is the best way to go.

4x4kingx889 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 17, 2011 6:42 pm **Posts:** 235

When driving it up a hill or getting on it she will lose power or just stall then I have to cycle the key to run the lift pump ( which is under hood ) to start it I did want to go to the intake pump just not right now...is there any fix for those quick Connect's?

sent from my sgh-1717 running CM10

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Mar 12, 2013 10:40 am

Cut them out and replace with short lengths of quality marine grade diesel compatable fuel line and clamps. May require dropping tank to get to 1 of what I think are 2 fittings; ignore fitting(s) on fuel return line. Cheaper than in tank pump.

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Mar 12, 2013 11:16 am

papaindigo wrote:

Cut them out and replace with short lengths of quality marine grade diesel compatable fuel line and clamps. May require dropping tank to get to 1 of what I think are 2 fittings; ignore fitting(s) on fuel return line. Cheaper than in tank pump.

X2. Especially that you already have a lift pump...

4x4kingx889 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 17, 2011 6:42 pm **Posts:** 235

Sounds like a good idea..which is the return line any way it is pouring out here so I don't want to be under it long

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Mar 12, 2013 4:37 pm

Not sure I can answer that question but I have a vague memory of a post to the effect that the return is the smaller of the 2 lines. If the return cannot be ID for sure just replace both; only cost is 2 extra clamps and a bit of hose.

4x4kingx889 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 17, 2011 6:42 pm **Posts:** 235

Just to be sure this is the problem connector and not the one on the fuel canister correct?
sent from my sgh-1717 running CM10

4x4kingx889 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 17, 2011 6:42 pm **Posts:** 235

Will see how it works
sent from my sgh-1717 running CM10

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Mar 12, 2013 10:06 pm

So you didn't have to take out fuel tank? Or is that's just the line that you can replace w/o taking out the fuel. Just curious, never had to replace it but never know... Lol.

Wonder what happens if we cover the quick release clamps with some polyurethane, like the outdoor one for windows, has somebody tried?

4x4kingx889 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 17, 2011 6:42 pm **Posts:** 235

no need to remove tank just jack jeep up so you can get under there...the only other quick connects are right at the fuel canister but those should be fine..took the jeep for a ride and it did not go in to limp mode or stall will see if the p0093 code come's back also

4x4kingx889 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 17, 2011 6:42 pm **Posts:** 235

thermorex wrote:

Wonder what happens if we cover the quick release clamps with some polyurethane, like the outdoor one for windows, has somebody tried?

The quick connect was full of crude dirt etc so I don't think something like that would work it took 10 mins to do and you can do it for under $6 I also think if you live where there is alot of salt it get's in there and dry rot's the little seal

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Mar 12, 2013 11:49 pm

You're right, I may waste the same time doing either one, lol. As soon as I get under the car I'll have them replaced proactively. Already have the marine hose

.

4x4kingx889 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 17, 2011 6:42 pm **Posts:** 235

Yeah I can seen that these are designed for pressure not vacuum..even if I did do the in tank pump I would still do this one less air sucking spot to worry about hardiest part is getting the quick connect to come off lol

sent from my sgh-1717 running CM10

4x4kingx889 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 17, 2011 6:42 pm **Posts:** 235

Still dident fix it will try a new filter tomorrow...

sent from my sgh-1717 running CM10

4x4kingx889 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 17, 2011 6:42 pm **Posts:** 235

new filter did not fix it I have bypassed my lift pump where else can this be sucking in air at?

Fitz! · **Posted:** Sun Mar 17, 2013 8:03 pm

I wish I could tell you, I'm in the same boat and waiting till tomorrow for napa to get marine grade fuel line. Thought I would give you a bump for an answer.

skates04 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 18, 2013 1:53 am

Are you sure your lift pump is working correctly? I know that every one has said that the pumps are supposed to be a flow through design so that if they fail everything will work like normal... I had a bad ground on mine and when the pump stopped working the Jeep ran like crap (like there was air in the lines) hard to start when it would. Once I found the pump had stopped working and fixed my ground connector on the body all was well again...

Long story short if you don't hear the hum of your pump that could be the issue...

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Mon Mar 18, 2013 9:55 am

Have you new people with air in the fuel problems read "Sam's newb guide" :furious:

The best solution is an intank lift pump. That way no part of the fuel system is under a vacuum so no air will be sucked in, simple as that :SOMBRERO:

An inline lift pump in the engine compartment or under the body will do a good job of sucking air from the connections at the tank :banghead:

Sucking air into fuel system

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