Hexus wrote:
Well, I did it and mine runs great. You spin the crank every so slightly counter-clockwise to take any slack out between the pump and the crank and then use your other hand to push the belt on then spin it back, all while the pin is still in the flywheel and the locking tool is on and the pins are in the intake/exhaust if you want.
You are only spinning it maybe 1/8 of an inch, how else would you get the slack out of the belt and ensure you aren't a tooth off on your timing belt?
It's in Sir Sam's Video and it worked for me, mine is 100% running perfect with everything in perfect time.
Maybe you have never done it that way, doesn't mean it doesn't work and isn't perfectly safe. It's actually more intuitive, but god forbid people with mechanical minds step on the FSM.
First.... the end result is good and that's what matters most.
The reason the cams sprokets are loosened is to let the belt move them, therefore you have no slack. No need to mark the sprokets, they should move!
Like i said, I dont want to be thought of as a smart A... but lots of people think its ok to do the timing belt change without loosing the sprokets...Sorry Its not doing it correctly by the manual. Let the flack start now.....
Here is a part of the procedure. minus the Pic's
Jeep Liberty CRD Timing Belt Replacement
Procedure (2.8l diesel)
Revised by KJJET
1. Remove cooling fan and shroud. *In order to remove them there is two methods.
A. Remove the grill, bumper, inner grill and electric fan. Then remove the bolts holding the intercooler and radiator. Now with the intercooler and radiator pulled back the fan and shroud can be accessed. Remove the shroud intercooler and radiator then move on to removing the fan.
OR B. Remove the grill and gain access to the intercooler and radiator bolts and remove them. This will give you a inch or two to access the shroud and fan.
The fan assembly is best removed with a very large crescent wrench on the nut just behind the fan viscous coupling. Then hit the wrench in a counter
clockwise direction with a small sledgehammer. It may help to
spray with penetrating oil. Worst case, wedge something behind
the fan drive pulley to keep it from rotating and then use the
sledge method.
2. Remove accessory drive belt.
3. Remove both idler pulley (right hand thread, 16 mm) (a), power
steering pump (3 bolts that you get to by rotating the pulley, 10
mm) (b), accessory belt tensioner (c), cooling fan pulley and
bracket( 4-13 mm bolts) (d), crankshaft pulley/damper (4-10mm
bolts, you may need to hold the pulley by the 21 mm center bolt)
(e), and alternator (2-13 mm bolts on the front and 1-15 mm on
the back side-note you will have to loosen the 2-13 mm bolts for
the bracket that holds the alternator to the cylinder head) (f) .
4. Remove the front timing cover (7mm bolt x 17)
5. Remove both plugs in the camshaft cover (one on intake side
behind alternator placement, one on exhaust side behind
thermostat area). Remove the plugs with a 5mm hex.
6. Rotate the engine clockwise only with a 21mm socket on the
front of the crankshaft until the crank timing mark is located at 90 degrees (3:00) and a 6mm hex key engages the hole in the flexplate/flywheel.
7. Inspect the two openings in the camshaft cover to see if the holes
in the camshafts align. If so, install the two pins into the
respective camshaft. If not, remove the 6mm hex key and rotate the engine 360 degrees at the crankshaft and re-inspect. Note: this may take up to 3 rotations to get all three installed.
8. Loosen the timing belt tensioner and rotate it counterclockwise by
hand until slack is sufficient to remove the belt from the pulley.
Remove the old timing belt.
9. With a sprocket holding tool, Loosen both camshaft sprokets by rotating the bolt (17mm) counterclockwise. It is sufficient to have them loose; they do not need to be removed.
10. Install new idler pulleys: remove them by turning clockwise to loosen then counter clockwise to tighten. Tighten to 53N-m or 39 Ft Lbs. Loosely install a new belt tensioner.
11. Ensure that the high-pressure fuel pump pulley is oriented
Properly (see picture) and fit the new belt to the crankshaft pulley. Install a small vise grip at the crankshaft to hold the belt in place while installing the belt counter clockwise starting with the fuel pump, idler pulley, cam shaft sprockets, idler pulley, water pump and lastly over the newly installed timing belt tensioner.
12. With the new belt properly installed, tension the
timing belt with the tensioner as shown in the picture. If the proper
handle isn’t available, the tensioner can be moved with two 3mm hex
keys. Rotate the tensioner until the proper gap on the pulley is
achieved. Tighten the center fixing bolt to 30N-m or 22 Ft Lbs
13. With a sprocket holding tool, tighten both camshaft sprokets to 108N-m or 80 Ft-Lbs.
13. Check tensioner and reset proper tension as needed.
13. Remove the two camshaft pins and crankshaft hex key. Rotate the
Clockwise only 21mm socket wrench, 720 degrees, re-check the tensioner and reset proper tension as needed.
14. Reinstall the timing belt cover.
15. As needed install new accessory belt tensioner, idler pulleys and reinstall everything in steps 1 thru 3.
Mike...If you want a copy with the pic's let me know?
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Used a white paint pencil, marked sprockets and belt, transferred marks to new belt and put her back together. My Sport still runs as perfect with the new belt as it did with the old.