Need tools and resources

kjjet · **Posted:** Mon Mar 18, 2013 8:44 am

WOW...that dose not look good. Is that sluge i see around the rockers & lifters? I had no sluge at all. You sure do have lots of EGR sluge in the intake and elbo.

My suggestion is to remove the elbo and place it in parts cleaner. In order to place the intake in parts cleaner, the cams will need to be removed. How do the cam's look? In order to remove them you have remove the fnt seal and snap ring, then remove the plugs in the back so the cam's can be slid back and out. You will need new seals and plugs. If your not removing the cams carefully clean around them so the oil is not fully removed.

If your intrested in total EGR removal PM me.

Good luck
KJJET

dragand021 · **Joined:** Mon Mar 11, 2013 11:52 pm **Posts:** 34

Update: everything cleaned, new rockers in place, head cover installed, new thermostat and water pump in place. Hopefully tomorrow, TB goes on. Oh and I made the tools, pictures to follow when I am done.

kjjet · **Posted:** Wed Mar 20, 2013 11:20 am

NICE! Any questions let me know?

dragand021 · **Joined:** Mon Mar 11, 2013 11:52 pm **Posts:** 34

Hmm no go. Have a strange issue. I made the tools and they seemed OK when I was done. However, the locking pins seem to be a bit loose, as when I insert them, I can still wigle the cams a little bit (less the a one toothe). In any case, I did the timing per FSM, and it seemed OK. But when I try to rotate the crank, I can go about 1 and 3/4 of a full turn, before the engine locks and it will not go any further. I took everything apart about 7 times, and can't get it to work. What can I be doing wrong?

kjjet · **Posted:** Sat Mar 23, 2013 9:27 pm

dragand021 wrote:

Hmm no go. Have a strange issue. I made the tools and they seemed OK when I was done. However, the locking pins seem to be a bit loose, as when I insert them, I can still wigle the cams a little bit (less the a one toothe). In any case, I did the timing per FSM, and it seemed OK. But when I try to rotate the crank, I can go about 1 and 3/4 of a full turn, before the engine locks and it will not go any further. I took everything apart about 7 times, and can't get it to work. What can I be doing wrong?

Ok...Let me get this correct.

1. The pins were in the intake prior to install and made contact inside the cam holes locking the cams? Correct?

2. The crank was pined at 90 degrees past top dead center. Crank mark at 3:00? Correct?

3. After the intake was installed and the cam sprockets were installed but not tight. Correct?

4. Install the belt, starting at the bottom. Hold the belt in place at crank with a vise grip, then over the pump, pulley, then both cam sprockets, pulley, water pump then over the tensioner? Correct? Do not move the crank!!

5. Set the tension.

6. Using the cam sprocket holding tool tighten the sprockets!

7. Recheck the tension.

8. Remove the cam pins and crank pin.

As long as you did not move the crank prior to step 8 your all good!

PM with any questions.

dragand021 · **Joined:** Mon Mar 11, 2013 11:52 pm **Posts:** 34

Yes, all correct but not working. The only thing I can think of is that the pins don't lock the cams in the correct spots and I end up a tooth off. Would that be enoigh for the piston/valve contact?

kjjet · **Posted:** Sat Mar 23, 2013 10:07 pm

If what you made contacts the hole in the cams? I'm sure you checked this when the intake was off? The cams do not need to move much to get off enough to contact the valves.

The cams should not move at all with the pins in!!!!

Hexus · **Posted:** Sat Mar 23, 2013 10:13 pm

If you ended up a tooth off your marks should show it. You did mark the cam sprockets and the crank, yes?

If you're just doing a TB change, then making your own tools is great. If you're taking the valve cover off then you should probably be using the real deal.

You may be a tooth off, but even if the valves are contacting the pistons as you're turning it, you simply don't have enough rear-end to damage it like that.

I didn't apply my belt from the crank, I went from the top and down and around and used the (APPARENTLY CONTROVERSIAL) back spin my crank 1 tooth to ensure I didn't end up a tooth off even with the VM.1089 inserted in the flywheel. I then hand-spun the crank 1 time, check my timing with my pins, repeated that about 5 times, then took the pins out and went 20 cranks to make absolutely sure that I had it right. There's some compression resistance but with all the stuff you have off right now that should fade in a few seconds and allow you to turn it more.

You should have all kinds of Self-Made marks on the crank/sprockets, etc. If you don't I really don't know how to help you get it back into time.

Your cam locking pins should hold the cams in the right place, and the gaps on the front of your cams should be facing each other with the exhaust gap facing 3:00 and the intake gap facing 9:00. That is the correct timing for 90 degrees ptdc on the cams.

Have a look at this video, at the 12:46 mark: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_uOjVG1XEs

If you need to borrow the pins let me know and I'll let you borrow the real pins for shipping costs, and I can ship them Monday to help you out.

dragand021 · **Joined:** Mon Mar 11, 2013 11:52 pm **Posts:** 34

Hexus,

I am going to take you up on that offer on the tools. I do not have original marks, as I boight the truck not running, the TB had skipped and the rockers were broken, hence starting from scratch. Please PM me the details on how you want to handle the shipping and stuff, or if you have the time, call me, I will PM you my number shortly.

Kjjet,

Can you tell me how do you secure the TB to the crankshaft with the locking pliers?

Thanks guys, you are awsome!

Hexus · **Posted:** Sun Mar 24, 2013 9:10 am

I BELIEVE what Kjjet meant is use a pair of large Vise-Grip style pliers that lock down to hold the belt to the crank. Nothing special, just a big set of Vise-Grips.

kjjet · **Posted:** Sun Mar 24, 2013 10:23 am

dragand021 wrote:

Hexus,

I am going to take you up on that offer on the tools. I do not have original marks, as I boight the truck not running, the TB had skipped and the rockers were broken, hence starting from scratch. Please PM me the details on how you want to handle the shipping and stuff, or if you have the time, call me, I will PM you my number shortly.

Kjjet,

Can you tell me how do you secure the TB to the crankshaft with the locking pliers?

Thanks guys, you are awsome!

Locking the belt to the crank is what the manual tells you to do. There is a VM tool to do this, But if you hold the belt in place and use a large vice grip on the crank face (where the pulley attaches) only the tip of the vice grip presses against the belt Holding it up in place. Then start your install counter clock wise with the cam sprockets loose. (no need to mark the sprockets they need to move to get all the slack out of the belt.

Follow the instructions I gave you, They are per the manual. No short cuts. take your time and it will work out!

As far as the video? He is showing the cams correctly!! That is good to see. Other than that, I don't like what he dose. Its not by the manual. Marking sprockets??? I know I keep saying that, but VM dose things for a reason. I follow the MFG.

Good luck!

dragand021 · **Joined:** Mon Mar 11, 2013 11:52 pm **Posts:** 34

Ok, that makes sence. I was locking the TB in place by sticking an allen wrench through the sprocket bolt hole on the crankshaft, worked fine. I still think the biggest issue I have is the pins being to loose, and the cams moving a littlebit. If i do it with the factory pins and still have a problem, I am suspecting that something (rocker arm) slid while I was installing the cover, and somehow is holding a valve open. Back to the waiting pattern. Thanks again, guys!

kjjet · **Posted:** Sun Mar 24, 2013 11:11 am

dragand021 wrote:

Ok, that makes sence. I was locking the TB in place by sticking an allen wrench through the sprocket bolt hole on the crankshaft, worked fine. I still think the biggest issue I have is the pins being to loose, and the cams moving a littlebit. If i do it with the factory pins and still have a problem, I am suspecting that something (rocker arm) slid while I was installing the cover, and somehow is holding a valve open. Back to the waiting pattern. Thanks again, guys!

VM dose make a cool little tool that uses a crank hole to hold the tool and the belt in place, But a large set of vice grips work good. Some people would say VICE GRIPS TO HOLD A BELT?, But your not tightening down on the belt. Your only using the tip to hold it in place. Works great. All the procedures I use are per the manual, with exception to the tools I use. But the action is the same.

dragand021 · **Joined:** Mon Mar 11, 2013 11:52 pm **Posts:** 34

Failure analasys of a rocker arm. So mine were not broken, but worn out. Just take a look at the center shaft and how much it wore out.

PS no damage on the roller pins or the roller.

Most likely this indicates a poor lubrication of the rocker arms.

kjjet · **Posted:** Sun Mar 24, 2013 1:45 pm

EGR exhaust in your oil is the cause. SERG or GDE tune will stop this.

kjjet · **Posted:** Sun Mar 24, 2013 1:48 pm

Hexus wrote:

I BELIEVE what Kjjet meant is use a pair of large Vise-Grip style pliers that lock down to hold the belt to the crank. Nothing special, just a big set of Vise-Grips.

Regular Large vise grips. Not like these.

dragand021 · **Joined:** Mon Mar 11, 2013 11:52 pm **Posts:** 34

I will post a picture, next time I am by the truck, but I was wondering if anyone knows what is a hose that goes from the top of the inner driver's side fender to somewhere on the botom for? I found this hose just dangling on the top of the steering rack and pinion, the end is split and the clamp is missing. The other and is connected to a plastic piece that is attached to the fender with a stud, and can spin sort of loosely. To me, it looks like some sort of breather or vent hose, but I can't find where it fell off from. Thanks,

Hexus · **Posted:** Mon Mar 25, 2013 6:33 pm

#1 Pins sent, you should get them Wednesday.

#2 Post a picture of the hose you're talking about and I'll go find out for you.

kjjet · **Posted:** Mon Mar 25, 2013 8:54 pm

dragand021 wrote:

Failure analasys of a rocker arm. So mine were not broken, but worn out. Just take a look at the center shaft and how much it wore out.

PS no damage on the roller pins or the roller.

Most likely this indicates a poor lubrication of the rocker arms.

With the damage you have in the rockers, did you inspect the cams for any damaged lobes from contacting the worn rockers?
Were most of the worn rockers on the exhaust cam side?

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