Correct...you can remove it. Mine is gone. If you take it off and remove the flange where the hose attaches. Get smaller bolts and install it directly to the intake elbo. The hose will reach up the extra inch needed.

It's a long shot, but dam it would be nice if that thing was broke and causing your problem.

If its not while you have the hose off do a Suck & Blow dollar bill test. There should be no blowing or popping from the intake.

_________________
05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI

You can remove the FCV entirely, or just the center disc from the shaft, it won't hurt anything to pull that. Unfortunately, you aren't going to like what I have to say now.

What you describe in the quote above, is JUST like what both of my engines sounded like before they were no more. Louder diesel rattling / clatter (especially at the RPMs you mention) is what the rod bearing failure presented itself as while engine #2 was also tapping away (sounded like a sticking valve and combustion going back into the intake) at idle. The tapping might not be present in yours right now at idle, but on engine #1 for me, it idled and even drove just fine during the test drive. Less than 10 miles later, it started clattering badly, the diesel sound got louder VERY quickly, and just as I was turning the key off... The #1 rod finished inverting (after beating the cylinder to shrapnel) and punched out the oil pan.

Noises are not fuel related on this engine. You have something VERY VERY badly wrong mechanically. To protect your block, I would quit while you are ahead and plan to pull the block and take it apart outside the engine bay.

This will be a world of suck for labor, sure... But the almost 90% certainty is that if you don't, you will be pulling the block anyway to replace it... Because it will then have a hole in it. The VM Specialist can sell you the internals to repair this one before it turns itself to scrap iron.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

I agree, the coolant level is now down after a few minutes running it at idle to check FCV and turbo again.

I have begun looking for a competent diesel mechanic in the area...

2 mechanics, 2 more different diagnosis of problem. Don't know whoto believe.

Mechanic #1 says stuck injector and that the EGR valve shouldn't affect how it runs...

Mechanic #2 says turbo is not sucking air....


Neither think it is in the bottom of the engine.

End result: For Sale as is for $5500.00

'05 CRD Sport, automatic, 88,700 miles, tires have 20K on them.

Dose mechanic #1 or 2 have any Jeep CRD experiance? These engines can be trying at times. Experiance helps. Dont give up so soon.

_________________
05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI

I haven't given up, just getting aggravated. I bought it with the intent of getting at least 150K-200K miles out of it. Neither of the latest mechanics has been into a CRD engine. They both make their money off of Ford Powerstrokes and VW TDIs mainly. They had both heard of VM Motori though...

I did take the intercooler hoses off to look into the FCV opening and check the turbo again. The FCV is "sprung open", I assume it closes on shutdown and reopens on spring tension. There is A LOT of carbon build up behind it. I will pull it off as soon as I have a chance, the weather has been a little uncooperative here as of late...I have put my fingers on the turbo again: no wobble, no noise, spins free. No carbon to speak of in the hose from the "valve cover" vent to the intake (I'm still amazed/aghast at the amount of "oil" flowing through the intake system)...all the wiring I have put my hands on also looks good, I will start testing some of it for continuity to rule out an electrical cause.

A friend/neighbor I know that owns a Transmission Service shop but has very limited diesel experience said they had a diesel VW Jetta "doing the same thing" and it was a bad EGR valve...the mystery deepens. I will try to light up the opening from the FCV and take a picture looking into the "chamber/opening" behind it.

I also pulled an oil sample to have tested (no metal in it, I ran a magnet through it).

I have a good couple of pics looking into the FCV housing but can't figure out how to upload them...

If the FCV is not loose then it's not your problem. The only way the EGR is your problem is if it is stuck open. You stated removing the MAF sensor plug made no differance.

If the EGR was stuck open you could have a loss of power, But where is the noise coming from?? You could remove the exhaust tube (two bolts) to the EGR and insert a blocking plate to stop the exhaust to the EGR.

Did you do a suck - blow check when the FVC hose was removed? Could have bad rocker or lifter causing the noise? Its a long shot. Hope is not a rod like geordi thinks, But it could be.

If you think it's a injector knock and problem? I would remove all the injectors (mark them) and send them to a shop for testing. With only 88k? If the engine was taken care of? Things would point at the injectors.

_________________
05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI

Thanks, my hope is pinned on an injector at this point...0W40 Mobil 1 every 4500-6000 miles for 7-1/2 years, Mobil 1 or Fram (sometimes was all I could find) filters....I've tried to take care of it for sure.

I didn't start it with all the hoses off, wasn't sure how it would run. At times in the past when I've removed the MAF sensor plug (such as after an inspection-they won't inspect in NC with a CEL present) there was a definite change in engine tone/loudness. This last time just before the issues started there was no change in tone/loudness.

I hate to think I will give up on it but if it is indeed down in the engine it will be sold as is for about half of book value...I don't have the $$ to put into it and if it is bad bad news I need to get our 3rd vehicle up and running for long term use.

Thanks for the advice...

Before you take off the injectors, since you will need to remove the EGR pipe anyway... Take off the EGR pipe first between the intake elbow and the EGR valve itself. It will be helpful to unbolt the fuel manager and use the hose flex to just push it out of the way.

Once you have the EGR pipe free... Comes a decision. For temporary fix, a blocking plate (probably at the EGR end for ease of installation) made of any flat aluminum or steel with a thin high-temp card for a gasket on both sides. Then reinstall the pipe, sandwiching the plate and blocking both boost leaking from the intake and exhaust leaking into the intake. This duplicates a closed EGR, and will be safe as a permanent fix as well, but can be reversed if needed. GDE can give you a tune that eliminates the EGR code for you - no more inspection troubles.

For a permanent fix - while you have that pipe out, cut the pipe a short distance behind both ends, and have the flanged stubs welded shut. Put the stubs back in place, now you have 2 blocks in place and an "air gap adapter" in the EGR system. Same deal for the tune: GDE.

Personally, I'd try the temp blocking plate first, see if the noise is still the same. If no change, at least you haven't spent more than $20 on a test and an hour or two in labor.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

It will start and run at idle fine with the hose off the FCV. Place a dollar bill or paper of the same size near the FCV, Any blowing or poping from the FCV tells you there is a timing and or rocker/ lifter or valve problem. long shot but costs nothing to check.

Like geordi stated there are several ways to deal with the EGR. Mine is all gone including the FCV. None is needed after a GDE tune or SEGR.

Block it and see is what i think also.

If you find nothing, move on to the injectors.

Good luck!

_________________
05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI