I checked the codes, and the only one I get is P1261 - Glow plug 1 control circuit low.

I got the whole front end tore off tonight and started looking at the timing belt. Surprizingly the belt looks like it's in very good shape. I couldn't tell if it was in time or not though. I going to order all the parts to change it anyhow.

Figured I might as well since it's apart. I haven't checked fuel yet. I'm more interested in finding out about the timing first. If I verify that's ok, then I'll check other ovious things. Right now my main worry is timing/rocker issues.

Before you go too much farther into the tear-down, do you have the special tools? You'll need one for each cam and the cam gears in the front if you are looking at tearing into the thing fully for water pump replacement, etc.

_________________
FWIW,
Hoosier CRD

#1 Liberty: '05 CRD Limited Stone White
(SOLD Dec. 2013)
#2 Liberty: ???
"Why guess when you can know?"- Carroll Smith

That was my first thought as well? Hot stuff hammered it and the fuel system was not able to keep up due to filter plugging?

_________________
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

The holes in the intercooler hoses can be a bit tricky to find, and don't forget about the hose that runs from the air box to the turbo(from what I have gathered on here, they have a nearly 100% failure rate) They tend to rot under the clamp that is on the turbo, unless it is really bad you cannot see it unless you take it off.

Its not a hose. They're all off and ok. If it was a fuel filter it should at least idle ok. Which it won't. Possible injector, or timing issue. I'm not sure. I'm making the cam pins tonight to take the belt off so I can check to see if it jumped time. I don't have any answers yet. I only have a couple hours every evening to work on it. Slow process.

Theres a mark on the injector pump that should show it all lined up when you have the cam pins in and the engine in the right spot. This will however only line up once every 3 engine revolutions if i remember right. This is due to the size of the cog on the injector pump compared to the others. I know you'll probably replace it whie you're in there, but it would be good to know before pulling it off if its lined up. You can also check the tensioner to see if its tensioned w/in specs. If it is then it is extremely unlikely it jumped a tooth unless there was something else that moved. The Cam sprockets are NOT keyed. They could have been a tad loose and moved, but again it seems very unlikely this is your issue since it was running a long time prior to this w/ no issues.

If theres no physical damage and its timed right i would bet its fuel related. i doubt the injectors themselves are the issue as 4 failing at once is unlikely and one or two you would still get an attempt to start. Perhaps the ijection pump or somethig in between, IDK.

Good luck w/ the timing belt. If you can check to see if its all lined up getting the engine in position you don't have to loosen the cam gears or retorque them. Though it wouldn't hurt to check the torque on them, it requires a cam locking tool as torquing against the cam pins is highly unadvised as you could damage the cam locking holes or break a pin and lose a piece in there.

The water pump is a little bit of a pain but not terrible so have fun with that too.

Good Luck and hope you find your issue.

_________________
Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

This sounds the same as several others.

I think it jumped time due to rockers. Be sure you look at the 90deg mark on the crank when checking the timing along with the cam pins. If it did the intake will have to come off for inspection.

If you want a timing belt procedure and or intake removal procedure let me know?

Good luck.

_________________
05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI

Well, if I did everything correctly, it's still in time. I have both cams with the pins in them, the injector pump mark is right on it's witness mark, and the pin in the flywheel. Soooooo, now what?

I'm still going to do the whole water pump/timing belt/tensioners, etc. But I'm going to wait til I have all the parts to tear the old apart. But in the meantime, I'm trying to find the next thing to look at.

mine wouldn't run at all. Had to bleed the air out of the lines. Takes 3min tops to check.

I'm going to check that tomorrow evening.

I'm concerned about the implications of a glow-plug failure. If the tip has fallen into the combustion chamber and damaged the valve or rocker arm... ?

Best test might be to perform a compression test on that cylinder; it's relatively non-invasive as you'll only need to remove the injector to installed the tester.

Just a thought.

Beyond that, since it's in time, I'd suspect air-in-fuel (clogged filter, air entering at fittings near tank or at filter assy), or perhaps EGR/FCV misbehavior.

Without codes - nod goes to air in fuel. Filter change lately? Which gen filter head? Any lift pump installed? Fuel system changes lately?

Most turbo-boost affecting problems (vane controls, CAC hoses, EGR, FCV, MAP) cause sensor rationale issues (codes related to boost/MAP).

Mark

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--
2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

Like many have said here, I'm leaning towards a fuel-related issue.

Before you buy the second gen head, go ahead and unplug the fuel heater, the plug on the right as you look at your currently used fuel head.

Change the fuel filter, you can get one at O'Reilly Auto Parts or NAPA. It is a Wix, P/N 33647 and should cost about $31.00 + tax.

Also, while you may also have a glow plug issue, plug in the block heater for a few hours prior to cranking.

If the block heater has yet to be used, like mine was when i bought it, you will see the cord zip tied to the oil dipstick.

_________________
FWIW,
Hoosier CRD

#1 Liberty: '05 CRD Limited Stone White
(SOLD Dec. 2013)
#2 Liberty: ???
"Why guess when you can know?"- Carroll Smith

Stuff the exhaust side of a shop vac into your fuel filler with a rag to make it some what sealed, open the fuel bleeder and bleed till it is clear. Close the bleeder, you now have no more air in fuel. Does it run any better?

Could be the pump, or injectors, do you have the Miller equipment to perform all of the tests?

_________________
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

So, Hot Stuff never changed the filter? That is the first thing you do when a diesel does not run right.

_________________
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

There are several holes in the FLYWHEEL. You must verify the crank timing mark is at 90 Degrees or pointing at 3:00. Without verifing the mark the engine could be one tooth off and the flywheel pin will line up with a different slot in the flywheel. (this happened to my engine) If you dont know where it is? Kind of hard to see, It is scribed in the crank just to the side of the crank bolt.

Hope it in time, but its good to make sure. Good luck.

_________________
05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI

If you verify the 90 degree mark is lined up?

I would do a suck - blow dollar bill check. This will tell you if you going to spend some $$$ on Rockers/lifters or worse.

1. Remove the hose to the intake.
2. Start the jeep and place a dollar bill or same size paper near the intake. If there is blowing or poping from the intake, NOT GOOD. If its just sucking air, your good.

Good luck

_________________
05 Liberty CRD Sport with Leather 115k
GDE ECO, No EGR, no FCV, (system gone)
Oil Drain plug P/N 090-039
K&N Air Filter, 2nd gen Fuel filter head
NEW Rockers & lifters
Mobil 1 0w-40
Stant 13519 195 deg inline Thermostat.
0 281 002 845 MAP
Etecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs
Advance Gold 800CCA Battery
Traded it for a Quality VW TDI

FYI: He says the jeep will NOT START so doing the dollar bill test is pointless right now.
As for checking the timing mark on the crankshaft: Forget about the flywheel pin, there are too many holes in the flywheel for that to be effective. Just look at the front end of the crankshaft - The bolt hub itself has a paint line that should be at the 3 o'clock position, BUT the easiest way is look at the bolt holes in that hub - If they aren't perfectly vertical and horizontal - You are not in time at the crankshaft.

With what you describe, I'm leaning toward a fuel issue... But your timing belt needed to be replaced anyway. If you haven't bought the belt yet, search on Amazon for Gates T331 (I think that was the number) and you will find it for like $75 or so. Gates or Goodyear brand are both very acceptable.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Not if it caught a slug of air from the CP3 pulling so hard on a plugged filter... my wifes Jeep did this the other day, got caught off guard with a -12°F morning and untreated #2 (it's the end of friggin march, it was 75° this time last year) and it gelled a little. Not bad, a quick bleed and a splash of diesel 911 solved it, but that's exactly what it did. Drove just perfect to a stop, then went to take off and it just about died, idled rough as heck and wouldn't even move itself.

_________________
Stan
Mine - 94 Ram CTD not even remotely stock - 99 V8 RWD Intrepid, Carb'd 5.2 in front of a 42RH with an 8.25 out back.
Hers - 06 Liberty CRD, ORM, EHM, soon to have 3" TURBO back exhaust (yes I like overkill, my truck has two turbos )

The bolt holes in the crank snout are at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. I got a filter ordered and will have it tomorrow, napa, orieillys, nobody had one in stock. I'm gonna try to bleed it tonight with the old filter just to see if it has air in the lines, maybe see if it'll run.

Yeah, they will not even fire if there is air in the fuel lines.

_________________
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.