Air Box Swap - CEL on

canonoch1 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 10, 2013 2:59 am **Posts:** 77

I'm in trouble with my Wife :furious:

now. As I proceed to refine our CRD to improve its performance and MPG's. I swapped the CRD lower air box with that from a '02 liberty 3.7L (total investment with new WIX air filter 30.00 got from wrecking yard cheap

). Now the Check Engine Light (CEL) is on steady and it surges a bit driving down the road :banghead:

. Gonna head to the local parts house in the morning to scan and reset codes. I re-installed the CRD lower box for now. Was wondering if anybody had any idea's as to what is going on here? :2cents:

BTW thought I'd post a pic of the 3.7L air intake (installed on the Liberty) vs. the CRD air intake (resting on top of the 3.7L air intake)

arengant · **Posted:** Sat Mar 23, 2013 12:55 am

Uh oh! Codes will help for sure.

Did you check the air hose from the box to the turbo? The turbo end can split because of the heat, so maybe by moving it around it split all the way open? When I did my air box there was no problems.

Have you been doing the ORM and you just plugged it in recently, or have you been running with the MAF plugged in this whole time?

canonoch1 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 10, 2013 2:59 am **Posts:** 77

No not doing to ORM (wife does not want to look @ the CEL on all the time) the MAF been plugged in the whole time like normal. I look at the tube leading out of the box in the morning when there is light to see it by. Thanks for the idea. I went out and removed the entire Air Box and searched for any hoses or plugs I may have dis-connected by accident but there really is not much in that area to mess up.

arengant · **Posted:** Sat Mar 23, 2013 3:13 am

I would pull the MAF sensor on the way to the auto parts store to see if that helps. A GDE tune or SEGR is really a good idea to keep your engine running without the CEL on. Good luck!

Hexus · **Posted:** Sat Mar 23, 2013 7:00 am

There's 2 sensors that plug into the air box IIRC, if you don't have them both in the new modded box, that will cause a CEL.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Mar 23, 2013 9:01 am

As will those plugs not being on all the way.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

With the V6 air box you will tend to lose fuel economy during the summer months and you may gain slightly during winter months. The 2004 KJ CRD had the V6 air box and Chrysler went away from that design when the VGT turbo was implemented due to high underhood air temp being pulled through the box. The stock design for 2005 and 2006 is better than the V6 design for turbo compressor temp limits. It will work better if you put it back to stock.

canonoch1 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 10, 2013 2:59 am **Posts:** 77

I put the stock box back in place and both sensors are connected wonder why the MPG's would go down though? during summer months. I know this is a very popular mod to do.

Hexus wrote:

There's 2 sensors that plug into the air box IIRC, if you don't have them both in the new modded box, that will cause a CEL.

I only used the lower box because of the sensors and i checked a few times afterwards to make sure the wires were plugged in tight. I'm hoping a wire did not break now on one of those two plugs.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sat Mar 23, 2013 7:42 pm

The sensor on the side of the box is notoriously sensitive to being bumped or even unplugged and replugged. I would focus on that one. Maybe a wire cracked or the plug is just not seated.

Srytrucker · **Posted:** Sat Mar 23, 2013 8:47 pm

unplug and plug it back as i have found them to be sensitive every time i do any job around them and this seems to work every time for me.

TJ2 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 23, 2013 10:15 pm

I like to use dielectric grease. Seems to hold the plug in place and keeps water out.

Hexus · **Posted:** Sat Mar 23, 2013 10:23 pm

TJ2 wrote:

I like to use dielectric grease. Seems to hold the plug in place and keeps water out.

I like to use lots of curse words and thrown tools around the garage myself.

canonoch1 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 10, 2013 2:59 am **Posts:** 77

Hexus wrote:

I like to use lots of curse words and thrown tools around the garage myself.

Yep was doing that. I checked the tube to turbo this morning no cracks. When I was re-installing the air box cover again. the sensor on the side didn't feel like it was plugging right to me. So I took the air box cover off again to look for a bent pin on it. Nope no bent pins. So I re-installed it again :furious:

. It seemed to connect fine this time. I started it up and no CEL on. Perhaps that is what it was like CATCRD and SRYTRUCKER mentioned. So while waiting for the wife to get ready to truck into town I replaced the stock CD player for a "Clarion" with AUX jack.

We headed into town and no surging and no CEL the whole time we were out. Came home and helped my neighbor cut and split a BIG fir tree that fell in their pasture. Went back into town to help out wife's little sister take care of one of her English Mastiff's females-got some dinner and came home. Still no surging and no CEL. I may try the Air Box swap again some day but I think I'll leave that alone for now and soon I'll order a MagnaFlow Muffler for it and then perhaps the GDE Eco-Tune. After all her B-Day is coming up here soon.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Mon Mar 25, 2013 4:34 pm

GreenDieselEngineering wrote:

With the V6 air box you will tend to lose fuel economy during the summer months and you may gain slightly during winter months. The 2004 KJ CRD had the V6 air box and Chrysler went away from that design when the VGT turbo was implemented due to high underhood air temp being pulled through the box. The stock design for 2005 and 2006 is better than the V6 design for turbo compressor temp limits. It will work better if you put it back to stock.

The V6 box was the solution to the air filter getting wet in heavy rains - the stock design had problems.

Auberon · **Posted:** Wed Apr 03, 2013 12:23 pm

On the basis that no problems are present and the repair is well., also assuming an otherwise well engine.... I assume that, you did disconnect the neg batt terminal for a time. It is my understanding that this should be done each time an driveability like aspiration change is done.

Not to contradict the brains trust behind this thread but it is my understanding that when a mod or repair akin to this is done to return more quickly to normal driveability this needs to be done.

After that, I would imagine, and am happy to stand corrected that it could take 5 warm-up cycles to clear the code depending on how deeply the code is embedded.

canonoch1 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 10, 2013 2:59 am **Posts:** 77

When I swap it again. I'll keep in mind of doing the warm up cycles. I did disconnect the battery to try and reset the code but the CEL only reset after messing with it the next morning.

canonoch1 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 10, 2013 2:59 am **Posts:** 77

Re-installed V6 airbox. No CEL on this time

Auberon · **Posted:** Mon Apr 08, 2013 1:00 pm

Great mate.....woof!

Air Box Swap - CEL on

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