Hi all,

Long time reader, first couple posts. Today, I took the Jeep for an two hour round trip to pick up my official passport. (Getting deployed) I came back, and turned off the Jeep and noticed a light grinding noise as it shut down. I thought it odd, so I popped open the hood, and started it back up. I noticed my CCV was pushing quite a bit of whitish smoke, and some oil had dripped out of it which I have never seen it done before. I checked the oil level, and sure enough it was low. I had just changed the oil to Rotella 5w-40 this past Saturday. I added .75 qt. I then gave it a few revs, and it spit the oil out the tailpipe. And I mean all of what I added. I shut it back down, and heard the same friction-like sound from the turbo after shutdown for about 2-3 seconds. The Jeep had about 170k, but the motor is only at 14,000 since it blew up before I put it, and the previous owner had a new long block installed. I can't be sure if the turbo was new or not at that time. I'm afraid the turbo is shot.

What are your thoughts?

-Thanks

Remove the air supply hose from the intake side of the turbo. I find it easiest to remove the top of the box along with the hose, and some folks remove the lower part too. Once you have that off wiggle the end of the intake side of the turbo shaft. If there is perceptible play either perpendicular to the shaft axis (radial play) or along the axis of the shaft (longitudinal play) your turbo is toast. Grinding noises from the turbo are a Bad Thing.

One of my PM checks is to check the turbo shaft play at every oil change. It is also very important to give the turbo abundant cool-down time.

_________________
Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

Ok, I went out to the Jeep and took off intake, and elbow. The turbo shaft seems good perpendicular, but does have quite a bit of slop along it, moving in, and out. I can hear a metallic click as I push it in and out. I also took off my Samco hose, and there is oil inside of it. What could happen if I continue to drive it? It sounds more and more like the turbo is shot.

Sorry, but the turbo is shot. Do NOT run at ALL until fixed. Several here have lost an entire motor in less than a minute after turbo failure.

There should be NO endplay and only a VERY TINY bit of axial play. Yours is obviously WAY past that.

ID parts has them, but check with Keith at GDE. He may have one for less. Make sure you put in a NEW feedline.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

What he said. Squared and cubed. Ask R2.0 or any of a bunch of others about the price of ignoring a turbo failure.

_________________
Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

What is a fair price to pay for the parts?

GDE has new OEM turbos including shipping for about 800 or so,please contact them as rebuilt or non oem turbos are not expected to last in CRD.
Good luck.