What have you done to your KK lately

Gageraid · **Posted:** Thu May 16, 2013 8:17 am

Just dropped her off at the 4x4 shop up the road to get lifted. No turning back now. I'm a little nervous because I don't believe they've handled a KK yet. I just hope they know the proper way to do it. We'll see if they can handle the hockey puck bumpstops or if I'll be getting a phone call about them.

EDIT: Just got the phone call about the hockey pucks lol.

Gageraid · **Posted:** Thu May 16, 2013 3:14 pm

Got my OME lift kit installed. The ride is highly improved.

lfhoward · **Posted:** Thu May 16, 2013 7:06 pm

NICE!!!

Congrats on the new lift. Your KK looks like a proper Jeep now. :mrgreen:

Gageraid · **Posted:** Thu May 16, 2013 8:21 pm

lfhoward wrote:

NICE!!!

Congrats on the new lift. Your KK looks like a proper Jeep now. :mrgreen:

Thanks! Don't mind the air dam and the rear mud flaps. Those obviously come off if planning on hitting some real trails.

Probably the best day owning this Jeep. Day one with the lift and I'm beyond impressed. Handles really well.

khalilw · **Joined:** Fri Sep 30, 2011 10:37 am **Posts:** 81

Looking good gage!! :jester:

Measurements? How much lift have you gained with those springs and shocks only.

Gageraid · **Posted:** Thu May 16, 2013 9:34 pm

khalilw wrote:

Looking good gage!! :jester:

Measurements? How much lift have you gained with those springs and shocks only.

I will try to measure tomorrow. Distance from center of rim to the fender, correct?

khalilw · **Joined:** Fri Sep 30, 2011 10:37 am **Posts:** 81

Gageraid wrote:

khalilw wrote:

Looking good gage!! :jester:

Measurements? How much lift have you gained with those springs and shocks only.

I will try to measure tomorrow. Distance from center of rim to the fender, correct?

That's right, you had to measure before lifting too :banghead:

Gageraid · **Posted:** Thu May 16, 2013 10:01 pm

Oh well.

Voyager · **Posted:** Sun May 19, 2013 7:55 am

Bikewrench wrote:

I think the rake is a safe move if you haul stuff frequently. I had one lifted vehicle that I set the stance level, but when loaded up to go on a trip it was always sagging from the weight. The rake seems to eliminate this. I went OME HD all around. Hopefully this does the trick for my Libby. Just gotta get it installed!

Not intended as a knock on those who like/want/need the rake, but for me, I didn't like it. It was still there after I lifted mine, so I had my mechanic do a clevis lift to bring the front end up level with the rear. I can see the point of leaving it if you haul heavy or tow a trailer, but I don't, and my personal feelings are that Jeeps should be level...rakes are for sport/muscle cars.

Bmxer524 · **Posted:** Sun May 19, 2013 2:03 pm

Voyager wrote:

my personal feelings are that Jeeps should be level...rakes are for sport/muscle cars.

I don't even like rakes on sport/muscle cars lol. I understand the point is to clear the tires in back, but still doesn't look good in my opinion.

Anyways, it's nice to know that if I do the top plate and clevis I'd get rid of the rake or atleast have a reverse rake. Then I can throw an iso or 2 in back to level it out.

lfhoward · **Posted:** Mon May 20, 2013 8:20 pm

I removed my roof basket and super skinks in preparation for sanding, priming, and painting them. My AtTheHelm front recovery system is in the painting queue too. The super skinks are super rusty! It's amazing what road salt over the winter can do to a paint job. The refurbishing process begins tomorrow!

lfhoward · **Posted:** Tue May 21, 2013 1:00 pm

Grinding the rust off my super skinks... Lunch break!!! :5SHOTS:

Using this thread for guidelines on how to sand, prep, & paint.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=73670&hilit=Best+practices&start=0

At The Helm · **Posted:** Tue May 21, 2013 1:35 pm

That mesh sandpaper stuff used to clean copper pipe prior to soldering would work well for tube/inside corners.

lfhoward · **Posted:** Tue May 21, 2013 4:37 pm

Thanks! By the way, do I have to get 100% the rust and old paint off? In other words, how uber-detailed and time intensive should I be with this? I am planning on washing the rails and using mineral spirits on them to remove oil after grinding. Then primer and paint.

Ted15 · **Posted:** Tue May 21, 2013 6:31 pm

lfhoward wrote:

Thanks! By the way, do I have to get 100% the rust and old paint off? In other words, how uber-detailed and time intensive should I be with this? I am planning on washing the rails and using mineral spirits on them to remove oil after grinding. Then primer and paint.

I used Rustoleum rusty metal hammertone black and rusty metal primer. It says that you can paint right over rust. That said, I removed all of the rust that I could, primed and painted. Youll have to let the paint dry for a couple days but that stuff is hard as nails.

At The Helm · **Posted:** Wed May 22, 2013 11:01 am

Just ordered some Bilstein 33-185552 rear shocks to finally replace my skyjackers which have sucked since day one.
If anyone is looking for rear shocks on a lifted kk these are a good deal for the next 7 hrs. Ebay item # 230968239527

Gageraid · **Posted:** Wed May 22, 2013 12:15 pm

Atthehelm wrote:

Just ordered some Bilstein 33-185552 rear shocks to finally replace my skyjackers which have sucked since day one.
If anyone is looking for rear shocks on a lifted kk these are a good deal for the next 7 hrs. Ebay item # 230968239527

Keep us posted how the install goes. Quite a few people here have the Bilsteins now and there have been some questions and answers about them for sure.

JeepMonkey190 · **Posted:** Wed May 22, 2013 12:41 pm

Ted15 wrote:

lfhoward wrote:

Thanks! By the way, do I have to get 100% the rust and old paint off? In other words, how uber-detailed and time intensive should I be with this? I am planning on washing the rails and using mineral spirits on them to remove oil after grinding. Then primer and paint.

I used Rustoleum rusty metal hammertone black and rusty metal primer. It says that you can paint right over rust. That said, I removed all of the rust that I could, primed and painted. Youll have to let the paint dry for a couple days but that stuff is hard as nails.

Just get as much of the rust off that you can but I would definitely use rustoleum that's all I have ever used on anything, it's the best plus rustoleum is a rust prohibitor so it will stop rust all together if you can't get it all off.

Also I don't think it's necessary to wait a couple days I did my steel bumper (atthehelm's) with rustoleum one day and the next I installed it, I just would go and grind on rocks for a few days so it can cure first

lfhoward · **Posted:** Wed May 22, 2013 1:18 pm

Thanks, guys. It sounds like I am on the right track. Rustoleum is what I have.

I got the professional primer and hammered black spray paint. Both cans' directions say to remove loose rust first and then you can paint right over the top of rust, but I wanted to get as much rust removed as possible. Restoring rusty sliders is a long job, so I don't want to have to do it any more often than necessary.

At The Helm · **Posted:** Wed May 22, 2013 1:55 pm

Gageraid wrote:

Atthehelm wrote:

Just ordered some Bilstein 33-185552 rear shocks to finally replace my skyjackers which have sucked since day one.
If anyone is looking for rear shocks on a lifted kk these are a good deal for the next 7 hrs. Ebay item # 230968239527

Keep us posted how the install goes. Quite a few people here have the Bilsteins now and there have been some questions and answers about them for sure.

I know that I'll need some sleeves since Bilstein doesn't supply the ones I need. (From what I've read). Not worried about it though, I can reuse the ones from the smyjacker, buy some at the hardware store or worse case use washers as shims.

The shocks specs are 15.91" collapsed and 25.93" extended with 255/70 valving.
At static my shocks measure ~20"
Flexed they measure ~22.5" and ~17" so I think these will work well.

What have you done to your KK lately

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