Silly question really-How does the electrical wires unplug from the bottom of the fuel filter? I can't see up in there, and the service manual goes into no detail. I want to be sure I don't FUBAR it up when I change the filter. Thanks

Ken

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2006 CRD
2.5 Frankenlift,ARB front bumper with internal winch.snorkel soon to have rock lizard bumper, sliders and roof rails, 2nd gen filter head
GDE eco tune-need trans upgrade and new TC
Beaverton Oregon

I always unbolt the filter from the firewall. Makes everything easier, especially unplugging the water sensor on the filter.

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05 CRD
97 Toyota FZJ80 12v Cummins/NV4500-build thread
96 Lexus LX 450
96 Ford F350 4x4

It's virtually the same as all the other connectors. You squeeze the fin sticking out of the connector and remove the whole assembly from the part it's attached to.

Not to confuse you, but ONCE YOU TAKE THAT CONNECTION OFF, the sensor on the bottom of the filter threads in and out of your filter for attachment to the new filter.

Hope that helps.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

There are generally 2 types 1) a tab, often red, needs to be pulled out to unlock the plug or 2) a flange or fin needs to be pulled pushed to one side to clear a tab and unlock the plug. I don't recall which one the fuel filter has.

However, if you simple undo the 2 nuts that hold the filter head to the mounting bracket there is ample flex in the hoses and wire to that plug to lift the assembly up and undo the plug in the clear. Frankly I prefer to remove the whole assembly from the vehicle to change the filter although you don't have to and doing so does involve removal of the fuel line and 2 electric plugs to the head. If you go this route be sure to push the fuel lines off as trying to pull them off just makes them grab on harder.

FYI if you have a 1st gen filter head consider replacing it now with a 2n gen head costing ca. $125 (head and wiring pigtail) but it comes with a brand new filter already installed.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thanks for the help!! Messy job but taking it off the fire wall worked well

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2006 CRD
2.5 Frankenlift,ARB front bumper with internal winch.snorkel soon to have rock lizard bumper, sliders and roof rails, 2nd gen filter head
GDE eco tune-need trans upgrade and new TC
Beaverton Oregon

Now that you now know how the plug works, you can remove the filter without taking the housing off the firewall and, if you put a rugged (like a ziplock) plastic bag around the filter after unplugging the WIF sensor and loosening, but before removing, you can do it without spilling nary a drop. Also, if you have a lift pump, you do not have to bother with prefilling. Just run a clear hose from the bleed nipple to a catch bottle, loosen the fitting and turn on the key until you have strong flow with no bubbles. Should then start and run instantly as normal.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

i spin it on and off like oil filter from the bottom 10 min job max