Y Link Extension 4" - Advise

Pippobug · **Posted:** Mon Jun 17, 2013 10:24 am

Hi,

i have a question reference JBA Y Link Extension 4", Is it work fitting?

Let me explain, I currently run NS132L & 948 OME and two top isolators, I currently sitting at 22 inc all round (last year I changed all the the rear top A arm bushes). Occasionally when I go round corners to quick, I feel the back end sort of feeling a bit soft ( I know OME are a bit soft) but most of all when I go off road an twist the axel proparly I hear, I think the upper bushes sort of knocking, so here are my question:
1)would the Y link help avoid this?

2) Also would it help is adjusting the angle of the drive shalf to the rear axel ( I think it might not, but asking to be sure..)?

3) Also would it be a problem even if I am not at 4 in?

Thank you,

Fil.

fortx4 KJ · **Posted:** Mon Jun 17, 2013 10:55 am

Did you check all the bushings and bolts to see if any are loose? I ran into the issue of the arm over flexing and hitting the body. Look on your boomerang and see if there is any damage to it where it connects to the body. I have the y link and it helps but I still have issues in the rear. I had to remove my rear sway bar and over flex to the point the springs are about to come out. Also my driveshaft hits the muffler when flexed. Its a fix but doesnt solve everything.

Pippobug · **Posted:** Mon Jun 17, 2013 11:35 am

Hi,
the bolts are all tight as they need to be, the rear Boomerang arm doesn't move and I haven't taken off my sway bar at the back ( tow so I like to keep it). Drive shaft as far as I can see isn't hitting anywhere and specially the muffler.
thanks,

Fil.

audiboy86 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 17, 2013 7:02 pm

The removal of the rear sway bar won't effect your towing capabilities the front one will for sure.

Pippobug · **Posted:** Tue Jun 18, 2013 3:10 am

Thank you Audiboy, but I just prefer to keep in on.

Still, is it worth investing in Y Link or not?

audiboy86 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 18, 2013 7:19 am

I am running about 3 inchs of lift without one and have never had and issue out of my Y-link. Mine is even still orginal with no play in the ball joint and very little in the bushing and i have been lifted for +80k. So, to me i dont see it as worth it because with bump stops in the rear at full stuff it doesnt contact anything.

Pippobug · **Posted:** Tue Jun 18, 2013 7:43 am

audiboy86 wrote:

I am running about 3 inchs of lift without one and have never had and issue out of my Y-link. Mine is even still orginal with no play in the ball joint and very little in the bushing and i have been lifted for +80k. So, to me i dont see it as worth it because with bump stops in the rear at full stuff it doesnt contact anything.

Thank you again, I think I won't bother for now. I also run longer bumpstop, 3 hockeypuck each side, just wanted to make sure, I suppose once you hit the 4 inchs it might be necessary.
Fil.

arengant · **Posted:** Tue Jun 18, 2013 11:48 pm

With the y link you cannot fit the sway bar.

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Jun 18, 2013 11:55 pm

I've been running 4 inches plus of lift for a long time now.
Had a Tri link extender laying here for a while, never installed it, sold it :wink:

TheJawsOfDeath · **Joined:** Sun Nov 05, 2006 3:56 am **Posts:** 305

I made my own extension. At ride height, my y link was nearly at the bottom of its down travel, and it was evident that it had been striking the bottom of the brackets where the bushings on the chassis side go. made some measurements and determined that I needed to bring it up by 3 inches to be in the middle of its travel and level. I basically copied the jba design out of 1/4" steel plate, but I went a step futher by welding both pieces of the extension together with more plate, and also ran stringers on both parts to stiffen it up. the jeep rides much smoother and feels more planted. I believe I could stilll run my sway bar if I put spacers in to lift it higher off the control arms, but it may end up interfering with other parts by being that high, dunno haven't gotten that far yet.

Lancer · **Posted:** Sat Jun 29, 2013 8:58 pm

Fil - some of the aus guys (Glend for sure) tried one and found that they had to take it off - it wore in such a way as to lengthen/stretch the bolt holes - I'm afraid that I can't recall the details, but the message was not to use it. Admittedly, they may have been running under harsher conditions than we do, but even so I'd do without.

TheJawsOfDeath · **Joined:** Sun Nov 05, 2006 3:56 am **Posts:** 305

That's exactly why I made mine as beefy as possible. There's a lot of fore and aft stress on that rear ball joint, especially since mine is a manual trans so there's that rather abrupt torquing motion when you get on and off the clutch. I believe that by welding it all together and preventing the two main plates from moving relative to each other, it'll be durable. Still, I'm an auto tech, not an engineer. I'll be checking it frequently.

crdjon · **Posted:** Thu Mar 06, 2014 9:09 am

If you use it, and I have done so, some stuff that might help out is below.

The one given for a 4 inch lift, well its too big (sounds dumb huh) its just too big even for a 4 inch lifted vehicle and this is to do with the bracket itself. The back part is not braced to the front part or anything and so its too flexible, bendy.....

It highlighted some things for me though. Read eyes wide open now. The OEM cast bracket on mine had bubbles of air in it. It broke so 7016 low hydrogen welded and back together again.

I experimented with the red bits and cut the longer tabs off it to almost half the original height, drilled new holes then bolted that to the diff. After this I made a wedge brace bit of metal that fits neatly under the OEM bracket when its bolted back in. This wedge was welded from the top of the front tab to the almost centre of the rear plate leaving room for the nose tab bolt that's provided with the y bracket to fit back in.

I am glad to say that now its firm and sturdy and doesn't move. I have noted that in this configuration the trilink points up slightly with the almost 3 inch lift I have, and this is an additional aid the the rotated spring perch job I did that points the nose of the diff a little more at double cardan joint.

Additional comment, I like 3's, specially when building things. Now with the mod to the bracket I've done I can see 3's in connections all over the place on it. When the force goes backwards it's not just hanging on the nose bolt, its also pulling back on the front tab and putting pressure in the middle of the back plate causing it to push against the diff proper and stiffen up and resist the leverage from the tabs at the rear, very very solid.

With forward motion it does a similar thing in reverse and the back plate pulls on the wedge joined to the front tab.

No matter where I HIT this setup now it all sounds like i'm hitting the diff proper, all nice and connected. Ive found a decent new ball, not oem and not those baked bean can metal things you so often see, including the original oem one in mine. So ill be fitting it after I lengthen the arms on the trilink. 2mm metal plate for this little job, about 20mm to 30mm more and the diff rotation will be complete and spring perches levelled again.

IMHO:
Summing up, if your not going to seriously mod that y bracket thing, then don't bother with it. It lacks engineering. Design another and let us know how you go.
I'm playing with the stuff at the moment and I have a set of heavy duty longer lower suspension arms from a Nissan GU and matching upper adjustables (aftermarket) that I think just might be worth trying. 5mm thick walls on the tubing I might add too, isn't EBAY great?

Have fun.

Oh, almost forgot, if anyone has any ideas on how to get a decent ball joint (hopefully in rubber) for the other end of the trilink, Im all ears. Or possible even better a bush that is horizontal Im also interested. I got some ideas but not yet tried them.

Y Link Extension 4" - Advise

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