Hi

I know someone here must have done a bypass on the 2.8L CRD A/C Compressor.

My compressor pulley is making noise, it's much worse when the A/C is turned on. I'd like to bypass the compressor until such time as I can afford to have the compressor replaced and A/C serviced. Prices for dealer service in Canada are outrageous

Any advice.. a belt length to bypass the AC, a bypass pulley... anything.

Thank you
Rob

My advice would be to replace the AC Compressor yourself. The sooner the better.

It would be like taking vicodin for a toothache, it will alleviate the problem, but the toothache is still there and you may end up with another problem while you're at it.

Might as well replace the serpentine belt while you're there if you haven't done it lately.

Service prices everywhere are rediculous, and typically with these you are paying to train the technician because Chrylser never did.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

True enough about prices and training. I just need a short term solution... even at the cost of a shorter belt until I have the funds for a compressor.

The short term solution is to fix it, the long term solution is where you get more problems because you didn't.

_________________
Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

Still don't have the funds to do the proper repair right now...and I can't afford to just park it till I do as it's my daily driver for work.

Before assuming the cause is related to you AC compressor pulley I'd strongly recommend you a) inspect the alternator pulley for red dust and b) at idle with AC compressor pulley engaged look down the serp belt to the serp belt tensioner. If the tensioner is "dancing" as opposed to barely twitching your problem is a bad alternator pulley which gets worse if the AC clutch is engaged. There has been at least one forum member who thought he had an AC problem but found out it was an alternator clutch problem. The alternator clutch (not solid and not reactive) can be found for around $80 (maybe less on eBay but be sure you are getting Mopar/Litens/Nippondenso not a knockoff) but can be a problem to replace. A lifetime warranty alternator can, in the US, be obtained from like Autozone for on the order of $150 and is an easy DIY replacement although getting to the tensioner is a bit tricky with the fan in place but it can be done.

Otherwise:
1. easiest - a) turn dash AC switch off and b) set vent "mode" control to Off, Panel or Bi-level. Do not set to Recirculate, Floor, Mix or Defrost as the AC will run some in these modes even if the switch is off.
2. harder and permanent - viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6042&p=180099&hilit=+switch#p180099 or Kaps switched option at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=52364&p=585766&hilit=+switch#p585766 . I see some of Kaps pictures are missing but if you want to try this option send me an email, not a PM, and I'll provide a copy I downloaded some time ago.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thank you. I'll double check for the alternator tonight. I did have the alternator done in Jan but will check anyways... you never know.

If it is the A/C pulley making the noise, you may be able to replace the pulley/clutch assembly
separate from the compressor. That will save you some money.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

I thought they had to go as one unit? If I can do the clutch assembly separate that'll be the best for me.

I've done it on other vehicles but haven't had any A/C problems with my CRD.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

Thanks. I'll have to look it up in the shop manual and see it can be done that way.

I took a quick look at the 06 FSM and it appears the AC compressor clutch can be serviced separately from the compressor without discharging the system (FSM says so) and there are a couple of special tools listed (don't know how critical they are) and parts are listed in the 06 Parts fiche in Figure 24-430. Probably the same for the 05.

However I do not off hand see a how to although I imagine a decent AC shop could handle it

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thank you so much. That's what I needed to know.

Sorry for the late update.

After taking the advice here, going to see a mechanic who agreed the compressor was going and getting prices (like $600 for a compressor)... I got a second opinion. A mechanic living around the corner used to work for Chrysler, then went on to doing diesel's took a look at it.

Good news, not the compressor... serpentine belt tensioner...

Bad news, timing belt was due too....

almost a thousand bucks later with shipping we had: the serpentine belt, tensioner, timing belt, tensioner, idler pullies, water pump, thermostat, lower rad hose, upper rad hose, hose from the water pump to the thermostat housing.

Add labour... and two days of him working on it... we have it back running better then ever.

Thank you everyone for the advice and help.

I've got a lot to learn about this Jeep I love, and am glad to hear from everyone here.