So i was planning on tackling the TB change in the near future. I WAS going to replace the water pump as i have the new one but dont have the specialty tools or locking pins. Now for the really stupid question.... Is it necessary to use the locking pins even though i will not be pulling the cam pulleys? I mean all im pretty much doing is replacing the belt and idlers for the time being. Could i just put some timing marks on the housing/pulleys and just do the belt? Im about to take a trip to Italy from Germany and it is ~1700miles round trip. I want to make sure she is good prior to going. My boss brought up a good point stating if i get in a stuck spot it takes weeks for parts to arrive.... thus leaving me with no transportation. He reccomends i wait till i get back to the states (which will be october.)

For some technical info ive got the 2006 CRD with 103K miles. (Thus my reasoning for getting the belt done ASAP)

Any thoughts? I want to make sure my trip wont turn into a disaster!

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"Each human being has an integrity that can be hurt only by the act of that same human being and not by the act of another human being." -Angel and the Badmen (1947)

06 Jeep Liberty CRD Sport 112K miles, Clevis Lift, Front bumper trim, Straight Pipe Exhaust, Open Air Box Mod, PCV Bypass, Cobra CB, Rear Cargo Deck, 6 Lights, Roof Rack

The locking pins keep you in time.

You can try marking it with a paint marker, but even with locking pins you're still going to need SOMETHING to hold the cam sprockets stationary as you tension the belt.

I cannot recommend anything except using the locking pins and VM.1085 or a suitable (Several provided on these forums) equivalent.

Lots of people might say you can use whatever, it's not THEIR $6000 engine.

Do otherwise at your own peril.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

In theory your idea would work but I would not recommend it especially when you can make do with modifying a couple of bolts (see http://www.beesvillebeefarm.com/jeep.html and viewtopic.php?f=98&t=72201) for cam pins and a 6mm allen key for the flywheel pin (see 05 FSM for how to)

There is some debate as to whether or not the cams need to be loosened to properly tension the belt. As I recall FSM says yes but in practice many say no. I'm in the latter camp PROVIDED once the belt is tensioned; engine rotated per instructions; belt retensioned; and engine rotated again that all 3 pins slip right in.

As long as you leave the cam bolts alone and use the 3 pins and witness mark a bunch of things you should be fine.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Ugh.... i dont know if i have the time to do this before the trip..... im real hesitant about digging into the job without prior experience on the matter. Im not totally mechanically DEclined but im no professional mechanic!

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"Each human being has an integrity that can be hurt only by the act of that same human being and not by the act of another human being." -Angel and the Badmen (1947)

06 Jeep Liberty CRD Sport 112K miles, Clevis Lift, Front bumper trim, Straight Pipe Exhaust, Open Air Box Mod, PCV Bypass, Cobra CB, Rear Cargo Deck, 6 Lights, Roof Rack

Don't let the job intimidate you. It really isn't that bad. If you can get the fan out successfully, the rest is pretty straight-forward. Follow the guides on this site and you'll do fine. I used the cam locking tool to keep my cams still, but also marked cams, injection pump, water pump, and crank. (I realize the injection pump is kind of not timed and water pump isn't timed, but what the heck).

One piece of advice I haven't checked the guides for which helped me is this. Once everything is back together and tensioner is adjusted turn the engine by hand to check all the marks line back up and even out the slack in the belt. Check the tensioner after the revolutions and if it needs adjustment, do that and then do the hand revolutions again, check tensioner again. It should take up some slack the first time through and stay put the second time through. I did this on two vehicles and neither has had any timing issues. The actual hand turning process is like this:

Rotate the engine 720 degrees (two revolutions) and verify that the cams line up. Rotate 360 degrees further (one revolution) and verify that the injection pump marks line up. Rotate 1080 degrees (three revolutions) and verify that all marks line up (both cams, injection pump, and crank should all be back in original positions.)

Again, it's not a terribly hard job once the fan is out. Just take your time.

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2006 CRD Limited
SEGR Mod
Saikou Michi Condenser -- Deleted
Samco Hose Kit
Fumoto 102
Etecno1 GX3123 Steel 7V Glow Plugs
GDE FT Eco and Hot Tunes
JBA 4.5 UCAs
OME Lift

So i went to the hardware store here and all they had to make the locking bolts was the M8 for the flywheel pin. Any ideas on how i could get by without the M10's for the cams? Maybe a shaft that will fit into position although it wont be threaded in? Thats the main dilemma in the situation....lack of accessability for hardware. Yay....

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"Each human being has an integrity that can be hurt only by the act of that same human being and not by the act of another human being." -Angel and the Badmen (1947)

06 Jeep Liberty CRD Sport 112K miles, Clevis Lift, Front bumper trim, Straight Pipe Exhaust, Open Air Box Mod, PCV Bypass, Cobra CB, Rear Cargo Deck, 6 Lights, Roof Rack

Im only intimidated because of not having all the proper tools. If i had the cam locking pins and even the pulley tool i would dive right in!

_________________
"Each human being has an integrity that can be hurt only by the act of that same human being and not by the act of another human being." -Angel and the Badmen (1947)

06 Jeep Liberty CRD Sport 112K miles, Clevis Lift, Front bumper trim, Straight Pipe Exhaust, Open Air Box Mod, PCV Bypass, Cobra CB, Rear Cargo Deck, 6 Lights, Roof Rack

I put marks, one per pulley, from the pulley onto the original belt adjacent to a tooth before removing it. Once removed transfer these witness marks from the old to new belt. Double check to ensure that the number of teeth between each mark is the same. When you reassemble, these witness marks should be your primary guide for correct alignment.

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Share your ideas freely at https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/

I did my timing belt without any special tools but I did not remove the cam sprockets or
replace the water pump.

I used drill bits in the cam holes and an allen wrench in the flywheel hole.
Before removing the t-belt, I marked the positions of the cams and crank.
I used a pair of vice grips to gently clamp the the cam sprockets together.
Neither the cams or crank moved as I removed and installed the new t-belt.

When I installed the new belt I started at the exhaust cam and went around clockwise.
As I placed the belt in position on the cams, I held the belt in place using binder clips.
When I got around to the crank, I slightly turned the crank counter clock wise to allow the
belt teeth to mesh properly, then aligned the crank marks again to add some tension to the
belt. (cams were still locked together with the vise grips)
I then finished routing the belt and set the tensioner.
I unclamped and unpinned everything and hand cranked the engine several times.
Then I set the pins in the holes and checked my timing marks.
Then I unpinned and cranked several times again, just to be sure.

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U.S. Army Retired

Thank you guys for the advice. I dont know why i didnt think to try something like that. I usually am pretty good about making things work just fine. Maybe it is a little intimidating when i was looking into it earlier.

_________________
"Each human being has an integrity that can be hurt only by the act of that same human being and not by the act of another human being." -Angel and the Badmen (1947)

06 Jeep Liberty CRD Sport 112K miles, Clevis Lift, Front bumper trim, Straight Pipe Exhaust, Open Air Box Mod, PCV Bypass, Cobra CB, Rear Cargo Deck, 6 Lights, Roof Rack