Here's my story: bought a 2005 crd with 63,000 miles a month ago as is. The day I got it home the oil drain plug fell out. Turns out the place I got it from overtightened it. They fixed that with a new one. Luckily it fell out when the metal contracted as it cooled. No oil leaked as I drove it home somehow. Then 2 days later the abs light and brake light wouldn't go off and the odometer wasn't working. So I searched on here and found the problem. It was of course the wires on the sensor that is on the top of the rear end were melted/frayed. Fixed that. Then about 2 weeks later the crd would just stall out when the engine got warm. I could let it cool off for about 30 minutes and it would start but only until it got warm again. I searched and searched and couldn't really find my exact symptoms until I found a post about the crankshaft position sensor. So I decided to pull it out and test it with a multimeter and heat gun. And once again u guys were spot on. The ohms spiked from 900 to about 1800 as soon as heat was applied. I got a new one and tested it and the ohms steadily/slowly climbed when heat was applied. That fixed it. Just wanted to give thanks to everyone on here. Libby runs great now.

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2005 CRD, non F37(from what I can tell) magnaflow muffler, 2g fuel head.
1995 jeep wrangler yj 2.5 turbo. All the add ons
2003 yamaha raptor 660, 686 big bore. Fully built. 73 whp

Welcome to the group.

You might want to put your location in your profile, it will help us when offering assistance to you in the future. You may also want to consider replacing the timing belt sooner rather than later, especially considering the mileage and year - That factory belt is rubber and kevlar, and approaching 8 years old if not already that old. That is a loooooooong time for rubber to be in service. The rest of the components are probably just fine, but the belt should be replaced as soon as you possibly can. $75 or so from Amazon for the belt only, and it will set you up for another 100k miles of hopefully trouble-free driving.

If you are in the Eastern USA, I can offer assistance in doing the belt job, or there may be other members close to you who can assist.
Search my posts for a writeup about using a spark plug thread repair kit to fix the oil pan - I would strongly suggest doing this as well. It is easy to do, and gives you wide strong threads to seal the pan rather than the thin threads and 'oversized' pan plug that most likely is installed under there now.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

I'm sure everybody here would join in a chorus of "you're welcome."

I'll second Geordi's recommendation you replace the timing belt as soon as you can. There are a couple horror stories on here about what happens if it breaks, and while it's not as bad as it could be (ie, complete engine destruction), having to replace all the rocker arms and lifters is bad enough. While you are at it, replace the TB idlers and tensioner and the water pump. They are cheap compared to the price of labor.