Getting back into it

shoprat · **Posted:** Sat Aug 03, 2013 9:35 am

crashed my jeep in 09 yearnin to go back there ,found an 05 with 180 K on it for $5000 owner says turbo won't spool up.Still runs but slow with lots of black smoke at tailpipe. Onwer took in and mechanic said intercooler or EGR valve. He replaced intercooler with no results has not replaced EGR.What do I look for or is this even worth missing with ? Truck looks like 50 K not 180K how long are these engines lasting these days?
Thanks

Hexus · **Posted:** Sat Aug 03, 2013 10:17 am

I have doubts that it's JUST the turbo.

You're going to have to do a timing belt job if you buy it, while you're there you're going to have to do rockers and lifters as well.

I would check the turbo for any play, also check the hoses running from the airbox to the filter, and the intake CAC and exhaust CAC hoses. (Running to both sides of the intercooler).

EGR wouldn't cause these problems, GDE tune would remove it from the equation anyways.

I would recommend doing the piece of paper test by the inercooler lines to see if the rockers are damaged, you can find it here somewhere, I think they're calling it suck/blow test, but I have diffuculties typing that without giggling like a 12 year old.

Where is this one for sale at?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Aug 03, 2013 10:44 am

Thoughts:
1. yes check the turbo shaft for play. Pull the airbox to turbo hose and wiggle the turbo wheel should be only slight fore/aft and virtually no side to side play. Be sure that hose is pushed all the way up to touching the MAF sensor on the airbox before tightening clamp lest you crush the airbox outlet.
2. assuming #1 is ok common causes for turbo not spooling are a) cracks/splits/holes in CAC hose(s) from turbo to intercooler to engine (at the FCV valve) - fix is Samco hoses; b) bad boost pressure solenoid - there is a test and fix is new solenoid; c) sticky turbo variable vanes - fix is often an Italian tuneup or oven cleaner sprayed on the vanes (don't have how to details on the latter).

Yes you need to do TB and water pump job absent proof positive that it's been done and if it has not been done there is a good chance rockers need doing. Total parts cost would be on the order of $800 from like IDParts. Can be done yourself but handy to have another forum member's help.

The suck/blow test gives you an idea on rocker health. Pull CAC hose at the FCV end; crank engine; at idle hold piece of paper near front of FCV; if all suck rockers are not "bad" but if flutter/blow rockers are shot.

GDE tune pretty much cuts EGR out of the loop but FYI EGRs rarely go bad to the point of needing replacement. Usually they just need removal and cleaning.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Sat Aug 03, 2013 1:41 pm

Could just simply need CAC hoses, or the turbo boost solenoid is bad. Do you know if and what codes have been thrown? Hexus is right, though. The timing belt is either way past due or will be due again very soon. It could also be worn rockers as Hexus said. The suck/blow (haha, thanks Hexus... now I am laughing too...) test is a must. If it passes, $5K may be fair. Good luck!

LS12FAST4U · **Posted:** Sat Aug 03, 2013 6:31 pm

Dude fly to Idaho and buy my crd. Guarantee you will behappy.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sat Aug 03, 2013 7:14 pm

Disagree slightly with Pap on one thing. ANY in/out play with turbo shaft means immediate new turbo. VERY slight up and down play is normal. (I have a brand new one on the bench which feels the same as the one in our Jeep at 112K miles.)

If you are able to do ALL the work yourself (TB, WP, Rockers, Turbo, etc.), it seems to be really cherry cosmetically AND you simply cannot LIVE without one of these things, I would go for it at $5000.

DOC

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