I don't think fuel quality is the issue with oil consumption. It's sad because this Jeep is still a running fool despite the problems. It's also in for some irratic shifting issues. These also goes away if I run the hell out of it. There is nothing wrong with the basic motor, just the way some of the emmissions stuff is done and DC's willingness to stand behind their product when it fails. Oil in the CAC is not "normal" nor is it "acceptable" in a diesel engine. Don't believe I have much choice except to confront DC on the issue, early and often if necessary to assert my right to warranty protection.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

Depends on what is your defination of "normal or acceptable" if you are the mfgr. With our CCV it would be "normal" to have some since there is no filter or oil removing feature of any kind in the CCV system on engine. I'm guessing they (D/C) figured we would have some troubles with the oil and soot till we got ULSDD and the gooie crap that plugs up EGR's and EGR Flow Control Valves till the switch over to ULSD then most of the problems would clear up.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

Ahhh, just go buy a Rubicon Unlimited with the 4.0L and get 14 mpg on a good day. Then you don't have to worry about that intercooler sludge.

JUST kidding, no hate mail please, I really miss my CRD.

Mudtrac, I still have that provent for you when we get together for some offroading again.

Wes

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2006 Jeep Liberty Sport (KJ4DIW) Ham / Warn 9500ti

http://www.cardomain.com/id/wesbronco

Convinced the reason DC doesn't like the Provent or other aftermarket CCV filters is because they can't hide a defective turbo with the rest of the oil sludge.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

Yeah, Im going to be in Ocala this weekend, Just found out I have a nice oil leak from the dealer cross threading my oil plug, about a quart low. Have to get them to take care of it this week. Just let me know when you can go out riding again and Ill be there.

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'64 Warrior Rail
1600 DP
Duel Webber 34 ICT
Centerline rims 135/15 and 31x12's
"Do it in the Dirt"

I wouldnt be so quick to say that the turbo is defective, Garrett makes great stuff and the T2 design is very tried and true, Might be the seals but might have a lot more to do with the cooling issues on the turbos. What this jeep needs more than anything is a Turbo timer. Im still trying to get my buddies Apexi to see if we can make it work...

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'64 Warrior Rail
1600 DP
Duel Webber 34 ICT
Centerline rims 135/15 and 31x12's
"Do it in the Dirt"

The big problem with oil in your intercooler is the intake charge cooling you are loosing. Since the inside of the intercooler is coated with oil how good does anyone think it's performing. Pretty darn poorly I'll tell you that. Now yes it could be coming from bad turbo seals but due to the high number of people with this issue I seriously doubt there are that many brand new turbos going bad. Everyone knows turbos run rich, well safely tuned ones do. Now combine that with the high compressions diesels run and you have the ultiamte combionatuion for creating nasty contaminated air in the block which the PCV sytem tries to recirculate.

Just think what happens when your intecooler losses thermal cooling capacity. The air going into the cylinders gets hotter which can and will lead to detonation especially on a turbocharged engine. If the ECU is smart enough it can/should retard timing to prevent this from happening and to protect the engine. What this means to you is less and less performance over time as the engine continually retards timing to avoid detonation.

My advice is to put those Oil catch cans in people. $120 is a small price to pay IMHO.

Agree, Garrett does make good products. I don't believe cooling and/or even driving habits is the problem. Lets just say I'm a cruise control baby, this Jeep runs a steady 65 mph expressway commute of 50 miles each way. Have @ a mile of stop & go at each end and give it warm-up & cool-down time at both ends. Have run commercial diesels for over 20 years, treat this one no diffierently. This Jeep actually has an easy life and way too young to be having these issues.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

Asked that question a while back at edmunds when kidding around and the just recently brought up my - put a small ac evap in the cac to really cool things down since the lines are so handy.
Post 5647 at edmunds "siberia" answered me and was quoting AIT for various ambient temps and speeds. This will be my second hot Texas summer with a cac thermo transfer ability compromised by the build up in its' innards. Can anybody expound on his numbers. Or does it not matter, either it will be the same or I'll have heat issues at least for combustion/mileage.

It actually gets much worse than loosing CAC efficiency. That oil either burns poorly resulting in heavy soot or passes straight through the motor gooping up eveything down stream. Have even seen this stick and coke up a VGT so bad it can't spool or be driven. Find it hard to believe the EPA would certify this engine passing oil like this. All I know is that I paid way too much money for this level of quality.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

Only time will tell if ULSD will resolve the issues with the EGR and intake manifold plugging with diesels on this side of the pond. IF the injection timing, cam timing, and EGR flow rates are the same over here as they are in Europe then we have a chance. With the tighter NOx emmisions over here, I'm thinking that these values are different.

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2005 Liberty Limited CRD

Well I agree with you that all this crud getting recirculated is making a mess of the intake and valves.

If I had the amount of oil in my intercooler that some of you guys are describing I'd be pulling it off first chance and cleaning that sucker out.

Edited for accuracy!

I don't think detonation is possible in a diesel, because the fuel isn't present until it is supposed to - well, detonate.
Somebody who has earned their living working on diesels could answer this better than me, but I'm pretty sure hot charge air would be more of an efficiency and emissions issue. Not that those aren't bad enough. Valve deposits and guttering would be one of my worries about oil ingestion.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

I didn't look up the thread you mentioned. However if you're describing adding an AC evaporator to the intake system to cool the charge further then I would not suggest it. When you add additional cooling capacity/flow you need to tune the engine for it. I don't know all the mechanics of it but I know with my vehicle if I add a larger intecooler then I have to get the engine tuned further. I know of guys who have run larger intecoolers on stock engine tuning only to see knocking. However, once they got tuned for the additional cooling/flow knock correction went away and performance improved dramatically.

Over chilling is actually an issue in some diesel applications. Have seen it on OTR buses where the CAC fan runs on a Horton clutch and is left idle in cold weather or it will overchill and kill your fuel economy. Some also have shutters over the intercooler.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

Thanks for looking. If my loss of cac cooling is compromised, this summer on hot wet (vs dry?) days what might I experience or not look forward to? And what reaction to this should I do?

Ok there are somethings being said here that make no sense... like detonation on a diesel engine? umm it doesnt happen that way, and re-tuning for cooler air, last time i checked when driving between different temp ranges and going from winter to summer temps i never had to re-tune an engine, further more, Im sure that the re-tune for the IC was to accommodate more air flow not cooler air flow, Sounds like youve had lots of petrol experiance, diesel is a bit different.

I had a old tractor that you could spray K1 D2 D1 oil and other viscous oil based liquids in and it would burn them all, thats the beauty of diesel, itll burn just about anything, it compresses the fuel to a point that it will self combust and burn. Detonation is a very common ocurance in small rice burners with turbos casue little kids dont know how to tune the leanness out of the eninge and casue knock to go away. Detonation is fixed by using higher octane fuel, too bad diesel is a cetane fuel. The whole combustion cycle in an oil burner is a type of detonation, thats what you want.

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'64 Warrior Rail
1600 DP
Duel Webber 34 ICT
Centerline rims 135/15 and 31x12's
"Do it in the Dirt"

Yeah, good point, most diesels would rather run hot than cold, they get to the happy point at higher temps. cooling the air going into the cylinder wouldnt do anything, thats why cold air pickups for a diesel are not really used, pertol engines will have huge jumps in performance with cooler air but not as much in a diesel. Cooling the exhaust gas temp that would help to a point. help the turbo and not build heat soaking.

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'64 Warrior Rail
1600 DP
Duel Webber 34 ICT
Centerline rims 135/15 and 31x12's
"Do it in the Dirt"

2.8CRD has been in the KJ and Grand Cherokee line up since 2001. The 2.5 TD has been in the Jeep lineup since 1990. There are several CRD's in the DC lineup for 2006 from the PT Cruiser to the Grand Cherokee. 2.2L to 3.0L I can remeber MB having TD and D motors in them back in 1972.

Dooohhhhhhhh...I've gotta pull my head out of my arse on this one guys. Regarding detonation, I forgot the most basic premise of diesels . That being pressure not spark ignites the intake charge. Therfore you're not going to experience detonation issues quite like a gas engine . As you can see my heads buried in gas technology < big head slap> .

I agree with you about raising the octane to rid detonation and about not having too lean a mixture. However, that isn't the only way to help prevent detonation. I wouldn't want a car to require anything other than what's regionally available, 92 octane. Now, If you can lower the intake charge along with a high octane fuel then you can run more timing. If you are getting hotter air in the cylinders then you risk getting detonation. Some of the guys I know actually run water injection to lower the intake charge even further. However they are extreme and are absolutely looking for every ounce of power. All the above applies to gas engines.

At this point I think I'll back away before I give someone bad advice because clearly diesels are not my forte and I don't want to give anyone bad advice. I still say though the catch can is very worthwhile to keep your intake, valves, turbo clear of crap.