P0202 - injector 2 circuit malfunction

thermorex · **Posted:** Sun Aug 11, 2013 11:44 pm

Hey guys,

In the past year, I've been having some intermitent p0202 mil code thrown, the jeep obviously runs in 3 cylinders till I start jiggling the wires, when it runs fine again for months... I know the problem is in the wires, my question is if somebody had this issue and how it had been fixed.

I would preffer getting the whole injector wiring, dont feel to comfortable chasing where/which wire has the issue, splice and solder it, especially that it is not easy to replicate and it only happens randomly. I do believe the computer measures the voltage and not the resistance, in which case I could be fine soldering, but again, I'd preffer replacing the wires rather than fixing them.

Could anybody please share some tips/tricks and if there is a known part number for the injector wiring?

Thanks a lot!

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Aug 12, 2013 8:50 am

Could you be more specific as to exactly what wires and where are being jiggled?

Billwill · **Posted:** Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:03 am

I would rather remove the harness and have a good look at it once it is outside the vehicle....probably a bad crimp on one of the lugs in one of the connectors or one of the lugs has lost tenshion so the female section needs a bit of closing up.
Just have a good look and clean up any corrosion and twist and tug on the harness while measuring continuity. Nothing wrong with adding some solder to an existing crimp. :wink:

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Aug 12, 2013 10:21 am

papaindigo wrote:

Could you be more specific as to exactly what wires and where are being jiggled?

Papaindigo, I jiggled the wiring going into the injector, like 2-3 inches before the injector plug (I think its called the injector solenoid, where the wire plug connects to the injector) and the plug.

Billwill, I would rather buy the whole injector harness, rather than tracing the interupted wire, which is a pita... but if there isn't another choice, I may have to do that, as much as I hate tracing wiring issues...

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

The engine harness with injector wiring is part number 56050448AH and is over $900. Fixing the bad wiring will be much cheaper than replacing the entire harness.

kjjet · **Posted:** Mon Aug 12, 2013 11:39 am

1.Take a close look at the plug. Any corrosion or dirt? Spray it down with some contact cleaner.
2. If its wiring? Look at sharp bends or rubbing.
3. If you still can not find? Follow the wires back as far as you can and splice in a new section and install a new plug. (Its most likely the plug or the first 6 inches of wire) I use wire crimps with shrink wrap to keep out the water.

Good Luck
KJJET

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Aug 12, 2013 11:54 am

Well I'm not much on modern vehicle wiring but if jiggling the wire essentially at the connector fixes the problem I don't think you have much tracing to do. My personal bet is a) loose or dirty plug or b) break in wire either at the connection to the plug or very near it. I suspect a) is more likely and could be as simply as plug lock not engaged.

Try, a) first. Unplug connector carefully clean apply dielectric grease and reconnect and see if the problem disappears. Alternatively take a look at the 06 FSM pgs 8W-30-19 and 8W-80-49. There are only 2 wires involved (one YL/BR and one BR/DB) that run from the plug to the ECM. I'd bet you could probe thru, will need to patch, the insulation on those wires and check continuity with the plug. I have no clue what type of "pins" are in that plug but they can often be replaced.

If you try the above probably best to do with the battery disconnected.

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Aug 12, 2013 11:58 am

Holly cow, 900 is a lot, even for the whole engine wiring... thanks Keith.

I guess I'll have to start what I hate...

Kjjet, the connectors have no corrosion, there is no obvious sign of bending/rubbing, my bet is the wiring plug may have something, ill have to start splicing and measure the resistance/continuity and hope I'll find the issue. Till then, I added some dielectric grease and also sprayed some connector cleaner on the plug, both injector and wire plug (as papaindigo suggested).

Thanks for your help guys!

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Aug 12, 2013 10:25 pm

Update: I have noticed after a careful inspection of cyl #2 wire coupling versus cyl #1 the following:

1. The metal clamps (connectors) in plastic plug were larger for #2 vs #1. This #2 probably become more worn due to an enlarged orange ring (looked "swollen" compared to #1's) that didn't allow proper seating and due to engine vibrations since it seems only the tips made contact.

2. The orange sealing ring was bigger (looked swollen) for #2 vs #1.

I took out the orange ring and put a bunch of dielectric grease to keep dust out and compensate for lack of ring.

If that won't work, ill try replacing the plastic plug with a new one.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Aug 13, 2013 8:42 am

Without going out to unplug my connectors I offer the following:
1. I suspect what you refer to as the orange ring is a rubber/silicone plug seal designed to keep mostly moisture out of the connection. That seal should be impervious to anything that would cause it to "swell" however if the 2 halves of the plug are not assemble straight it's certainly possible for the ring to become deformed and appear swollen and that type of misalignment could easily cause the wiring pins to not seat properly even if any plug "clip" engages.
2. looking at the FSM I see no reason why the pin clips (e.g. what the pins plug into) should be larger on the #2 plug although a misalignment per above might have impacted their size.
3. as nearly as I can tell from looking at but not removing my plugs the 2 wires are fairly free going into the back of the plug. Based on that I suspect the ends inside the plug are fairly standard wiring pin connectors. Those connectors are typically made with one end that can be crimped/soldered to the wire (wire is first pushed thru the connector) and have a raised piece that locks into the connector once the wire is pulled back. There are special tools (often a tiny screwdriver will do) to disengage that lock (google "wiring pin removal tool") so the connector can be removed. The connectors can be purchased separately or sometimes preinstalled on a piece of wire. In fact I wonder if the spare wire that comes with a new fuel filter head has the proper pin connector. If so someone who just got a new fuel head may have the extra wires. My take home point is if the wiring connectors have issues they can be replaced. If you go that route put the seal back on well lubed with dielectric grease and carefully reassemble the plug.

If #3 doesn't work there may be a forum member that has an extra plug from a trashed vehicle that they can donate to the cause.

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Aug 13, 2013 11:51 am

papaindigo wrote:

Without going out to unplug my connectors I offer the following:
1. I suspect what you refer to as the orange ring is a rubber/silicone plug seal designed to keep mostly moisture out of the connection. That seal should be impervious to anything that would cause it to "swell" however if the 2 halves of the plug are not assemble straight it's certainly possible for the ring to become deformed and appear swollen and that type of misalignment could easily cause the wiring pins to not seat properly even if any plug "clip" engages.
2. looking at the FSM I see no reason why the pin clips (e.g. what the pins plug into) should be larger on the #2 plug although a misalignment per above might have impacted their size.
3. as nearly as I can tell from looking at but not removing my plugs the 2 wires are fairly free going into the back of the plug. Based on that I suspect the ends inside the plug are fairly standard wiring pin connectors. Those connectors are typically made with one end that can be crimped/soldered to the wire (wire is first pushed thru the connector) and have a raised piece that locks into the connector once the wire is pulled back. There are special tools (often a tiny screwdriver will do) to disengage that lock (google "wiring pin removal tool") so the connector can be removed. The connectors can be purchased separately or sometimes preinstalled on a piece of wire. In fact I wonder if the spare wire that comes with a new fuel filter head has the proper pin connector. If so someone who just got a new fuel head may have the extra wires. My take home point is if the wiring connectors have issues they can be replaced. If you go that route put the seal back on well lubed with dielectric grease and carefully reassemble the plug.

If #3 doesn't work there may be a forum member that has an extra plug from a trashed vehicle that they can donate to the cause.

Thanks papa.

1. = correct. I suspect the plug didn't seat straight at some point.

2. The pins shouldve been identical. I believe that due to 1. they enlarged since the plug didn't go straight in and all way in, even though as you said, the clip clicked.

3. I will first try fixing the pin connectors and try squizing them a little so they grip properly on the injector connectors. If not sucessfull then I may just buy another plug and replace the old one.

Right now, without the orange ring, I havent had a problem yet. Ill test and see, hopefully I wont have to do anything else.

Thanks for answering!

P0202 - injector 2 circuit malfunction

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