OK, even though I'm still trouble shooting my ABS issue (see thread here http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=76060) I also decided I better do some fluid changes. When I was replacing my front left axle seal and intermediate shaft (another thread http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=76051) I noticed the axle fluid seemed pretty dirty and smelly. I decided to change the fluid in both diffs and the transfer case. I'm not sure which fluid to use in the transfer case. With all the searching I've done this morning I'm still not sure.

How do I tell which transfer case I have? I was going to ask about how to tell if I have Trac-Lok but I guess there's a sticker on the rear axle housing (assuming it didn't come off at some point). I do know the trans is the 42RLE.

Is there a write up or pictures showing where how to do any of these? Like I said, I have been searching but not seeing what I'm looking for.

Oh and is it OK to just top off the front diff with additional fluid even if it's not the same brand? I was going to top it off until I could get my order of Amsoil in.

Thanks again.

_________________
07 KJ OME 927/948, Bilstein shocks, JBA 1/4" plates+about 3/8" clevis, 2 extra rear isolators sitting at about 3.5" of lift with 245/75-16 Duratracs on Moabs (painted black)

Non-syn is best for your diffs,if you do not tow or wheel it heavily the cheap 80w-90 gear oil is best,if you do two and wheel it 85w-140 for the rear is best.Skip the syn stuff unless you change it every 15k or just don't like your diffs at all.You can do both diffs with non-syn for about the price of 1qt of syn gear oil.

T-case is ATF+4 regardless of which t-case you have in a KJ.

What's wrong with synthetic? My 2006 specifically calls for it in the rear.

_________________
2006 Jeep Liberty Limited 3.7

Unless you change it often(every 15K) it tends to fry the pinion bearings.Not a good gear oil at all,poor heat disapation in a diff also.

Some tough winter snow and maybe towing a small boat or trailer it about all for me (only occasionally). I don't really do any hard core wheeling.

I guess I would ask what does synthetic do that is bad? I thought I had read previously that you used royal purple synthetic...maybe I'm confused with someone else.

_________________
07 KJ OME 927/948, Bilstein shocks, JBA 1/4" plates+about 3/8" clevis, 2 extra rear isolators sitting at about 3.5" of lift with 245/75-16 Duratracs on Moabs (painted black)

I did at one point and after 10k my axles and bearings had a nice sludge coating on them.After that I only used Lucas 85w-140 non-syn,diff ran cooler(gears themselfs),and generally a smoother ride.

Syn gear oil is only used for mpg's but does not have any advantage over dino gear oil in protection of the diff.You don't want a "better poor rate" for gear oil,you want it thick and sticky since there is no pump to lube the diff.

So with non-synthetic you can go longer between changes? I presume this same theory would apply to other vehicles as well then? I'm getting a new Mustang soon and though I might go all syn in that as well.

Thanks again for all the help. Now I need to find one of those pumps to pump it in. Auto Zone didn't seem to know what I wanted when I was getting a replacement ABS sensor from them this afternoon.

_________________
07 KJ OME 927/948, Bilstein shocks, JBA 1/4" plates+about 3/8" clevis, 2 extra rear isolators sitting at about 3.5" of lift with 245/75-16 Duratracs on Moabs (painted black)