Liberty CRD Oil Change Mileage and Filters Too

kidjedi · **Posted:** Wed Aug 21, 2013 10:53 pm

My head is spinning from researching oil/filter to use for my oil change. I'm about 300 miles out from the 6,250 point, so I've really got to buy something asap.

Is anyone using the newer Amsoil Series 3000 5w-30? It's a little pricier than most other stuff (around $2 more a quart), but several of the posters in the threads I've been reading swear it will be great for the '06 CRD. Is it OK to use 30 instead of 40?

Several have said "European" Amsoil 5w-40 is preferred, but I can't seem to find it (I assume it has a specific name that would make my search a heck of a lot easier).

Others mention 0W-40 (usually Mobil 1) as a preferred oil.

It also seems like the Amsoil EaO26 may be the best filter for the job (a little larger than the Ea034, but a couple posters have said it will definitely fit in the Liberty).

Anybody have any input on these Amsoil products? Or more love for something else that says I shouldn't even be looking at these Amsoil options?

kidjedi · **Posted:** Wed Aug 21, 2013 11:08 pm

FWIW, The Mobil 1 96989 0W-40 Synthetic (6 quarts for $49 with a $12 rebate for a final cost of $37) with a Mobil 1 M1-211 Extended Performance Oil Filter ($8) seems like the clear winner of recommended oil/filter for the price. The site I'm looking at says the M1-301 won't fit the '06 Liberty CRD, but clearly some of you guys are using it?

I feel like I'm over thinking this, but I want to make sure I'm purchasing oil/filter that will keep my beloved CRD running for a long, long time (just turned over 130K).

user113 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 21, 2013 11:40 pm

I would stick with a 5w40 or 0w40 viscosity like the manual states.

The oil in my CRD has now been in there for about 19,500 miles. The last oil analysis (at 14,677 miles on the oil) showed my aluminum levels being higher than the universal averages; 21 compared to 9, but the universal averages were at somewhere around 6,300 miles, so my oil had more than double the universal average mileage on it at the time; but also had significantly lower than the universal averages for iron; 29 compared to 42, so I wasn't worried at all about extending the mileage. This current fill is Shell Rotella T6 5w40; with numbers like these I am pretty pleased. The TBN at the last sample was 5.4. I have been running the MicroGreen combination bypass filters and changing them at 6000 mile intervals. I will be doing some major work soon (timing belt, rockers, ARP studs), so I will change the oil then and install a real bypass filter to see if I can lower the wear metals even further.

More important than which brand of oil you use is the GDE tune. I ran Mobil 1 TDT 5w40 for 10,011 miles and got a reading of 59 for iron (back then the universal average for iron was 40). Then I changed the oil (also Mobil 1 TDT 5w40) and got the GDE Hot Tune at around the same time. After 6,584 miles on that oil it showed only 14 for iron (at that time the universal average for iron was 41). Huge difference.

Get a GDE Tune and help pay for it by extending your oil change interval. With a GDE Tune, 6,000 mile oil changes are way too frequent. The particular oil formulation you use is probably not that important, but always use the correct viscosity.

YMMV.

kidjedi · **Posted:** Thu Aug 22, 2013 12:31 pm

Thanks for all the info. user113.

Crazy that you've got 20K on one oil change!

The GDE Tune is on my list, I just have to find a time when I won't need to drive for a month. :shock:

It looks like the Shell Rotella T6 5w40 is about the same price as the Mobil 1 TDT and the Mobil 1 96989 0W-40, a lot of people here seem to be using it, so maybe I'll give the Rotella a shot. The Amsoil is definitely more difficult to find/purchase, so the Shell/Mobil may be better for me simply for that reason.

I had not heard of the microGreen bypass filter, but just did a little research. They seem pretty solid, but I wonder if they're worth the added cost and hassle of finding to purchase.

Finally, the only reason I mentioned the Series 3000 Amsoil 5w30 (instead of what the manual calls for) is Amsoil specifically states that that oil is to replace the 0w40 in diesels like the Liberty CRD's. I had questions about the different viscosity numbers, which is why I was asking if anyone had used it.

Thanks again for all the input!

thermorex · **Posted:** Thu Aug 22, 2013 12:42 pm

kidjedi wrote:

Thanks for all the info. user113.

Crazy that you've got 20K on one oil change!

The GDE Tune is on my list, I just have to find a time when I won't need to drive for a month. :shock:

Why dont you get their flash programmer tool ($195), or see if somebody in your area can let you borrow one?

Hexus · **Posted:** Thu Aug 22, 2013 12:52 pm

kidjedi wrote:

The GDE Tune is on my list, I just have to find a time when I won't need to drive for a month. :shock:

Wha? Are you in Papua New Guinea or something?

Keith has like a 2-3 day turnaround up here in the states.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Thu Aug 22, 2013 2:53 pm

kidjedi wrote:

My head is spinning from researching oil/filter to use for my oil change....
....The GDE Tune is on my list, I just have to find a time when I won't need to drive for a month. :shock:

Get the important stuff sorted out first, GDE tune, before you start worrying about the minor details, oil/filter brands. Until you've got the tune the difference between oil brands is insignificant when your oil is loaded with abrasive soot.

I was also concerned about the downtime and cross border shipping complications so ended up ordering the tool as well. This strategy worked out because I required a couple of minor tweaks to the standard tune which Keith was able to email to me. It also gives me the option to re-flash my ECU to support the 5V glow plugs if I choose to go this direction.

I'm cheap and procrastinated far too long before I upgraded. Keep a sample of your current oil to compare with a post tune sample. I'm sure you'll be as shocked as I was.

thermorex wrote:

Why dont you get their flash programmer tool ($195), or see if somebody in your area can let you borrow one?

The programmer binds itself to a single vehicle. I think that Keith mentioned that he would assist unbinding them so that they can be moved to another vehicle but it would be less effort all round to rent from GDE if you don't wish to buy.

cevans · **Joined:** Wed Aug 24, 2005 12:48 pm **Posts:** 278

kidjedi wrote:

Thanks for all the info. user113.

Crazy that you've got 20K on one oil change!

The GDE Tune is on my list, I just have to find a time when I won't need to drive for a month. :shock:

It looks like the Shell Rotella T6 5w40 is about the same price as the Mobil 1 TDT and the Mobil 1 96989 0W-40, a lot of people here seem to be using it, so maybe I'll give the Rotella a shot. The Amsoil is definitely more difficult to find/purchase, so the Shell/Mobil may be better for me simply for that reason.

I had not heard of the microGreen bypass filter, but just did a little research. They seem pretty solid, but I wonder if they're worth the added cost and hassle of finding to purchase.

Finally, the only reason I mentioned the Series 3000 Amsoil 5w30 (instead of what the manual calls for) is Amsoil specifically states that that oil is to replace the 0w40 in diesels like the Liberty CRD's. I had questions about the different viscosity numbers, which is why I was asking if anyone had used it.

Thanks again for all the input!

Skip the bypass filter. I've seen these motors with hundreds of thousands of miles on them, putting in another filter won't do anything to extend engine life.

I use 0w40 Mobil 1 in the winter, 5w40 all other times (sometimes TDT but I switched to Liqui Moly Synthoil High Tech recently)

user113 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 22, 2013 9:37 pm

kidjedi wrote:

Finally, the only reason I mentioned the Series 3000 Amsoil 5w30 (instead of what the manual calls for) is Amsoil specifically states that that oil is to replace the 0w40 in diesels like the Liberty CRD's. I had questions about the different viscosity numbers, which is why I was asking if anyone had used it.

When I use the product finder tool on the Amsoil site it recommends their Synthetic 5w40 European oil (EFMQT) for the CRD, not the Series 3000 5w30. And I wasn't able to find anywhere in their literature about the Series 3000 5w30 being a replacement for 0w40. Might be there, but I wouldn't do it.

user113 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 22, 2013 9:47 pm

cevans wrote:

I use 0w40 Mobil 1 in the winter, 5w40 all other times (sometimes TDT but I switched to Liqui Moly Synthoil High Tech recently)

I saw the LiquiMoly Synthoil Energy on the idParts site recently; and the Total Energy 9000. As a customer service rep, do you know if there is some sort of special European significance to the use of Energy in the oils' names? And why isn't the LiquiMoly Top Tec 4100 5w40 not listed for the CRD?

kidjedi · **Posted:** Thu Aug 22, 2013 9:48 pm

user113 wrote:

When I use the product finder tool on the Amsoil site it recommends their Synthetic 5w40 European oil (EFMQT) for the CRD, not the Series 3000 5w30. I'm sure the EFMQT will be even harder to find than the Series 3000.

Yeah, the recommendation of the Series 3000 was from an actual person at Amsoil. I'm still not convinced he was right, but it's what he said.

thermorex · **Posted:** Thu Aug 22, 2013 9:59 pm

If I remember correctly, europeans use 5w40 diesel oil for their crds. Only here chrysler recommends mobil1 0w40...

kidjedi · **Posted:** Thu Aug 22, 2013 10:13 pm

dirtmover wrote:

thermorex wrote:

Why dont you get their flash programmer tool ($195), or see if somebody in your area can let you borrow one?

The programmer binds itself to a single vehicle. I think that Keith mentioned that he would assist unbinding them so that they can be moved to another vehicle but it would be less effort all round to rent from GDE if you don't wish to buy.

I assume this is still the case (the tool is bound to a single vehicle without GDE's help moving it, so borrowing is kind of a PITA).

I'm not sure I can afford the extra $195 to purchase the tool right now, but I suppose I could dig up the extra $45 to rent. Is there any advantage to owning the tool (I was under the assumption that you flashed the tune and that was that... unless some nitwit at the dealership were to "undo it" if I ever had to take it in --could a mechanic at a local shop accidentally undo the tune while they were doing something else)? Is there a common scenario where I would want to "go back" to stock?

I also wonder how common the extra "few minor tweaks" are that dirtmover mentions Keith e-mailed to him when the regular tune wasn't quite right (this seems like a reason to own instead of renting... though I guess they might let you keep the tool for a bit and you could make these minor tweaks even on a rented tool?).

I'm also assuming the "Full Torque" tune is a better buy since the Eco and Eco FT are the same price (why wouldn't you want the extra torque?!).

I know I'll need to upgrade the TC at some point, but hopefully it'll hold for a while even with the Full Torque tune.

I don't pull anything but a lightweight work trailer at the moment, but I'm keeping my eye out for a camper if there's a deal to be found.

I'm sorry that all this GDE tune talk is buried in a thread about oil/filters, but I'm not really sure how to effectively take the conversation elsewhere and have it receive the same amount of attention it's getting here. :oops:

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Aug 23, 2013 8:01 am

Comments:
1. the tool for the purpose of the tune is "locked" to the vehicle based on the VIN, although Keith can unlock it if need be, and can be used to store several tunes (ex. some like to swap between Eco and FT depending on what they are doing and flash back to a GDE tune is a dealer messes up your ECU). However, that does not prevent using the tool to pull and clear ECU (not TCM) codes on any CRD.
2. I cannot think of any reason to go back to stock and it's extremely unlikely that any place other than a dealer would have the equipment to reflash your ECU to stock. That said on the rare occasion I've used a dealer, my local one is good, I've taken care to write on the ticket that they are prohibited from plugging into the computer port or otherwise interfacing with the ECU without my written permission.
3. based on personal experience if you use UPS flat rate priority mail and send your ECU and/or TCM in on say Friday it will likely be back by Wednesday. Keith's turn around time is amazing except of course when he goes on vacation but those times are always posted on the site.
4. if you are running the stock TC I'd stick with the Eco tune. It has ample added power and won't stress your TC. If you upgrade the TC in the future a tune upgrade is only $50

kidjedi · **Posted:** Fri Aug 23, 2013 3:30 pm

papaindigo wrote:

3. based on personal experience if you use UPS flat rate priority mail and send your ECU and/or TCM in on say Friday it will likely be back by Wednesday. Keith's turn around time is amazing except of course when he goes on vacation but those times are always posted on the site.
4. if you are running the stock TC I'd stick with the Eco tune. It has ample added power and won't stress your TC. If you upgrade the TC in the future a tune upgrade is only $50

3. Sounds like the turnaround is as bad as I thought. My only concern would be the "tweaks" dirtmover said were required during his tune. I wonder how common this is?

4. Is this $50 upgrade fee posted on the site? I hadn't seen that. It definitely seems like a good way to go (I don't mind spending $50 to "upgrade" to full torque once I have a new TC, since I don't really know when that might be).

As always, thanks for the info, papaindigo.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Aug 23, 2013 3:44 pm

I hope you meant to the turn around was NOT as bad as you thought. Your original comment was "The GDE Tune is on my list, I just have to find a time when I won't need to drive for a month." and typical total elapsed time for mailing your ECU in for the tune and getting it back via USPS flat rate priority mail is like 4-5 days depending on holidays. I'm close to 3 CRDs and none of them have needed tune twicks.

$50 I may be misremembering a reflash to one where a dealer had undone a GDE tune. Glancing at the site upgrades may now be $100 but check with Keith. I've not done a "normal" upgrade rather I got the Stage II turbo and it's tune which is a whole different ball game (needs a beefy TC too like SunCoast or the Euro as it will fry the OEM TC if you get on the throttle any).

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Aug 23, 2013 4:11 pm

Kidjedi, I've flashed my ecu and didn't need any tweaks after that. But I live in ohio, and the comunist Cuyahoga county only requires a "brief" emission test, is not as bad as cali. They just hook up the probe tiny the muffler, check for catalytic converter under the car, jeep passed with no issues. The guy there told me "diesels never fail". Lol

kidjedi · **Posted:** Fri Aug 23, 2013 4:16 pm

papaindigo wrote:

I hope you meant to the turn around was NOT as bad as you thought. Your original comment was "The GDE Tune is on my list, I just have to find a time when I won't need to drive for a month." and typical total elapsed time for mailing your ECU in for the tune and getting it back via USPS flat rate priority mail is like 4-5 days depending on holidays. I'm close to 3 CRDs and none of them have needed tune twicks.

$50 I may be misremembering a reflash to one where a dealer had undone a GDE tune. Glancing at the site upgrades may now be $100 but check with Keith. I've not done a "normal" upgrade rather I got the Stage II turbo and it's tune which is a whole different ball game (needs a beefy TC too like SunCoast or the Euro as it will fry the OEM TC if you get on the throttle any).

Oops. Definitely meant IS NOT as bad as I thought. Five days is probably doable (though the Jeep is my daily driver).

Yeah... it seems like the site says they'll "redo" a flash that gets undone for that amount, but nothing about an upgrade. Maybe I'm just not looking close enough. I'll check again and maybe contact them directly about the issue.

Keith actually wrote me a while back and said the stock TC should be fine with the Full Torque for a little while (until I can get together the cash to upgrade to the Euro TC or Sun Coast), especially if I don't go too crazy stomping on the pedal, and especially not stomping while towing.

I read about that GDE Turbo upgrade when I first purchased my Jeep. Sounds like a LOT of fun, but I think it's cost prohibitive for me right now.

I'd love to do the transmission chip upgrade too, but I've got to limit myself to just he Eco Tune or Full Torque Eco Tune for the time being.

kidjedi · **Posted:** Fri Aug 23, 2013 4:18 pm

thermorex wrote:

Kidjedi, I've flashed my ecu and didn't need any tweaks after that. But I live in ohio, and the comunist Cuyahoga county only requires a "brief" emission test, is not as bad as cali. They just hook up the probe tiny the muffler, check for catalytic converter under the car, jeep passed with no issues. The guy there told me "diesels never fail". Lol

Yeah... I think Denver/Boulder is on par with Cali, though I didn't have any issues this go round.

Diesels never fail is definitely NOT the mantra here though. :lol:

amslube · **Posted:** Fri Aug 23, 2013 4:36 pm

AMSOIL Series 3000 HDD 5W-30 at 2 year intervals, generally about 24,000 miles. Also have AMSOIL bypass filter. Change fullflow filter at 1 year, bypass at 2 year intervals. Doing this since 2007. Backed up with OA.

I know this will raise questions and eyebrows but it works for me. Got the CRD with 17K on the clock, now almost 99K. Will be doing the timing belt in a couple of weeks.

Liberty CRD Oil Change Mileage and Filters Too

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