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 Post subject: Re: 2007 KJ (Work in Progress)
PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 12:54 am 
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Location: 7,000 feet, Zuni Mountains, New Mexico
I added a locking gas cap to help prevent tampering. I decided to go with Mopar to ensure that it will seal correctly and not throw any codes. My only complaint is that the cap does not tether to the hinged door like the OE cap does.

Mopar Locking Fuel Cap
Part # 5278655AB
Price $25.55

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 Post subject: Re: 2007 KJ (Work in Progress)
PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 7:50 pm 
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dieselenthusiast wrote:
I upgraded my battery today. I went with the Sears Diehard which is a rebadged Odyssey battery, part #ODY34-PC1500.

Battery Specifications:
10.85" Long, 6.76" Wide, 7.82" Tall, 51.5 lbs
CCA: 880 amps
MCA: 1050 amps
Voltage: 12V
Capacity: 68 Ah (C/20)
Reserve Capacity: 135 minutes

Here’s the price difference:
Odyssey $470.00
Sears DieHard $220.00

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Got the same thing myself a couple of weeks ago.
Gotta love the full replacement warranty.



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 Post subject: Re: 2007 KJ (Work in Progress)
PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2012 12:00 am 
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dieselenthusiast wrote:
liquidxit2 wrote:
Although having the coolant be warm for cold starts does sound nice.


I've seen temps down to -30 where I live, so keeping the coolant warm does dramatically increase warm-ups. Research shows that having a block heater also increases the engine life. Besides warming the coolant, the block heater also warms the entire engine. The heat rises and the warmth spreads to the oil and cylinders as well. As a matter of fact, it even melts the snow in the middle of my hood.


LOL it rarely goes bellow 35F here so I doubt Ill need one.

dieselenthusiast wrote:
I upgraded my battery today. I went with the Sears Diehard which is a rebadged Odyssey battery, part #ODY34-PC1500.

Battery Specifications:
10.85" Long, 6.76" Wide, 7.82" Tall, 51.5 lbs
CCA: 880 amps
MCA: 1050 amps
Voltage: 12V
Capacity: 68 Ah (C/20)
Reserve Capacity: 135 minutes

Here’s the price difference:
Odyssey $470.00
Sears DieHard $220.00

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Had one of these in the KJ before I sold it and it was the best battery I ever owned. Currently Im using the Gold AGM diehard and it got me through a mild winter so I guess Ill see how well it handles this one.

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 Post subject: Re: 2007 KJ Build (Work in Progress)
PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 10:53 pm 
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After installing the Fumoto drain valve on my Dodge Ram diesel (14 quart system), I wanted one for my other vehicles. They are simple to use, eliminate messes, and reduces the amount of time to change oil. I bought the valves with the nipples so I can attach a hose. The adjustable valve and hose makes it easy to fill bottles of any size. In all honesty, the valve will probably pay for itself with all the cat litter and paper towels that would be used to clean up the oil mess. :mrgreen:

F106N: Nipple Type Oil Drain
$26.95

5/8" Safety Clip
$1.00

3/8" ID x 3FT Clear Vinyl Tubing
$3.00

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 Post subject: Re: 2007 KJ Build (Work in Progress)
PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 11:57 pm 
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dieselenthusiast wrote:
After installing the Fumoto drain valve on my Dodge Ram diesel (14 quart system), I wanted one for my other vehicles. They are simple to use, eliminate messes, and reduces the amount of time to change oil. I bought the valves with the nipples so I can attach a hose. The adjustable valve and hose makes it easy to fill bottles of any size. In all honesty, the valve will probably pay for itself with all the cat litter and paper towels that would be used to clean up the oil mess. :mrgreen:

I usually use the ash I take out of the fireplace. It works okay for spills, not as good as cat litter.

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 Post subject: Re: 2007 KJ Build (Work in Progress)
PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 9:12 pm 
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The Fumoto valve rocks. I have one too, and I can't imagine changing the oil without it, especially now that I have skids. :D

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 Post subject: Re: 2007 KJ Build (Work in Progress)
PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 10:42 am 
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How is that transmission pan working? I never considered that you could upgrade to one with a plug! Where did you get it? How much was it? I want to know! :BANANA:

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 Post subject: Re: 2007 KJ Build (Work in Progress)
PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 10:48 am 
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badkittystt wrote:
How is that transmission pan working? I never considered that you could upgrade to one with a plug! Where did you get it? How much was it? I want to know! :BANANA:


The pan works great. Here's more info on the pan and where to get it: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=40061

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 Post subject: Re: 2007 KJ Build (Work in Progress)
PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 11:00 am 
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Thanks!

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 Post subject: Re: 2007 KJ Build (Work in Progress)
PostPosted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 8:02 pm 
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I finally installed the Filter Minder. It's been on my list of things to do for a long time. The Filter Minder came factory on my Ram Cummins, so that's how I became familiar with them. They really do help gauge whether or not it's time to replace the filter. Sometimes a filter appears clean when in fact it's dirty and other times the filter looks dirty when in fact it's clean. From that perspective, the device offers some degree of indication when the filter might need to be changed.

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Last edited by dieselenthusiast on Sun Jan 25, 2015 12:13 am, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: 2007 KJ Build (Work in Progress)
PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 3:17 pm 
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Looks good! Did you post a link where you purchased the filter minder?

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 Post subject: Re: 2007 KJ Build (Work in Progress)
PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 5:34 pm 
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arengant wrote:
Looks good! Did you post a link where you purchased the filter minder?


No I did not. It was somewhat a complicated process. I called Filter Minder and asked for the recommend calibrated grommet-styled Filter Minder for my application. I then had to find a vender and order from there. If you're interested, send me a PM and I'll give you some numbers to call. Since your KJ is a CRD, the calibration might be different.

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 Post subject: Re: 2007 KJ Build (Work in Progress)
PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 2:46 am 
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In 2011, we replaced the stock tires with the Firestone Destination A/T in 245/70/R17.

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Last edited by dieselenthusiast on Sat Feb 28, 2015 2:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: 2007 KJ Build (Work in Progress)
PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 6:17 pm 
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It's time to replace the rear glass lift supports.

StrongArm
Part# 4365


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 Post subject: Re: 2007 KJ Build (Work in Progress)
PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 3:00 am 
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I wonder how ill fix my predicament.

Few months ago I attempted installing new rear glass struts. The passenger side went on fine but when I removed the drivers side the ball it connects to at the top was rusted so badly it sheared off completely. Now I have one strut and I cannot open the rear glass without holding it up by hand.

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 Post subject: Re: 2007 KJ Build (Work in Progress)
PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2015 2:53 pm 
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ARB rear differential cover

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Magnetic Drain Plug
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Magnetic Dipstick
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Lubricant
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 Post subject: Re: 2007 KJ Build (Work in Progress)
PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 3:33 pm 
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I like that the ARB has a drain on it. I never understood why most diff covers don't gave drains. I am going to try to get my Riddler cover drilled and tapped for one before I put it on. I'm spoiled with my Land Cruiser. It has a drain plug for every fluid filled thing on it, even the fuel tank.

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 Post subject: Re: 2007 KJ Build (Work in Progress)
PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 8:54 pm 
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CIMARRON13 wrote:
I like that the ARB has a drain on it. I never understood why most diff covers don't gave drains. I am going to try to get my Riddler cover drilled and tapped for one before I put it on. I'm spoiled with my Land Cruiser. It has a drain plug for every fluid filled thing on it, even the fuel tank.


I now have a drain plug for the transmission pan and the front and rear differentials! 8) If I were in your shoes, I would sell the Riddler and buy the ARB. There are two problems with drilling and tapping the Riddler and Crane. The first problem is finding a place that is low enough to get all the fluid out. The other problem is creating an exposed bolt head that could potentially get snagged.

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