Had ARP studs installed and now no turbo boost...

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 10, 2013 4:50 pm

Hexus wrote:

:POPCORN:

If you paid with a credit card, contest the charge due to incorrect repairs.

If you paid cash, take him to small claims court.

If you don't want to do either, shame on you.

+1.

hucorey · **Joined:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 4:29 am **Posts:** 378

LMWatBullRun wrote:

Agree w Geordi, guys, let's stay focused on the problem at hand.
The financial aspects of this situation however unfortunate are not our business.

please permit me some questions:

1) coolant loss.
How much is lost?
Where is it coming from?
Are there signs of coolant in the oil?
Is there coolant in the driver's side of the coolant reservoir?

2) boost loss
Have you carefully checked the intercooler hoses?
Have you checked the intercooler itself for a leak or blockage?
Have you carefully inspected the VV control hose and controller?

3) noises
What sort of noise is it?
Is it rpm dependent or road speed dependent?
Does it happen all the time, or is it intermittent?

Answers to these questions would be helpful.

I completely agree ^^^^^

:popcorn: I'm sure the OP's mechanic really appreciates getting told how to do his job.

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geordi · **Posted:** Thu Oct 10, 2013 11:19 pm

That was my experience with the mechanic who I asked to install my replacement engine. I provided all the materials and links to this forum... The moron used AllData - which has flawed data - and proceeded to IGNORE my requests to:

Call me if there were any questions at all
Protect / keep the original engine, because I planned to rebuild it myself
The biggest one: Don't use more than 28 lbs of torque to tighten the timing tensioner.

The dumbasss used far in excess of that, and stripped out the front cover. Then he IGNORED the damage, and ruined a full set of rockers by taking the thing for a test drive after he stripped the front cover.

At some point, he managed to damage a bunch more of the rockers. In the box of broken parts, I ended up with FORTY.

This tells me one thing: "mechanics" are very similar to managers and TV directors of photography - they are arseholes that believe ONLY they have the knowledge to do whatever it is they are doing.

hucorey · **Joined:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 4:29 am **Posts:** 378

Not quite as bad experience as you geordi but I ONLY took mine in because it was under warranty. Day after I bought it, the next morning it had have a half quart trans fluid on the floor. 48k miles, still under the used warranty Jeep dealer said external gaskets were not covered. Showed him the paperwork, it said all gaskets. Still made excuses to fix it. Once I got it in their shop to inspect it, then their "expert diesel mechanic" said "that's what you get for buying a Mercedes Benz. I argued with him its a VM Matori. He wouldnt believe me til he popped the hood and looked at the valve cover.
I told him to "take it off the lift you retard, I'm outta here." Then they had the nerve to give me a $70 bill for testing the battery. :twisted:

:evil:.

That's why I've always owned a third vehicle. So I have a spare to give me the time to fix all my own stuff.

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sbohner · **Posted:** Sun Oct 13, 2013 11:21 pm

Thanks MRausch82!

I didn't pay cash or credit - used a check when I picked up the vehicle. I took it out for a drive before paying for it and asked a number of questions. One was about the smell of antifreeze - this led to opening the hood to see where it was coming from. I saw splatters going around the fan, but the mechanic said that he had overfilled the reservoir and this was just coming out of the overflow. The CRD while loud was running sound again - just a new turbo stronger and an exhaust cut off at the cat converter. So, I paid the bill.

The next day I noticed considerable fluid under the Jeep. Needless to say, I returned it to the mechanic. They discovered that they had nicked the radiator. The owner of the company came out to talk with me. I outlined the process I had been through. He gave me his word that they would take care of whatever problems were in the vehicle regarding the work they had done. I got the Jeep back the next day and it is running fine again. I still need a new cat converter, but I will get that taken care of this week.

While it is my belief that the turbo and cat converter would have been fine had they not had problems in the repair, I can only point to the series of incidents leading up to the problems (Jeep ran fine after the initial install of the ARP studs, then they gave it a harder test and it started belching black exhaust and bogging down. Shortly after that, they discovered low boost and replaced the sensor, then the turbo, then discovered the clogged cat converter). After the last fix, I convinced them to give me the original turbo as it may old, but not completely worn out as they had thought.

I considered legal action, but at this point think I may throw good money after bad. Perhaps the owner being engaged in the process will generate sufficient good will to ensure good service from hear on. I will see. :2cents:

MRausch82 wrote:

Hexus wrote:

:POPCORN:

If you paid with a credit card, contest the charge due to incorrect repairs.

If you paid cash, take him to small claims court.

If you don't want to do either, shame on you.

+1.

sbohner · **Posted:** Sun Oct 13, 2013 11:38 pm

Hi LMWatBullRun,

Thanks again for your advice. As you might have seen from my response to Mike R., I have the Jeep back and it is not losing fluid anymore - a nick in the radiator during repairs. Here are the answers to your questions.

1) coolant loss.
How much is lost? About a pint per hour of driving.
Where is it coming from? Turned out to be towards the top of the radiator.
Are there signs of coolant in the oil? Not that I could tell.
Is there coolant in the driver's side of the coolant reservoir? No.

2) boost loss
Have you carefully checked the intercooler hoses? Yes, they appear sound. The mechanic indicated that they swelled at the right time, and didn't leak.
Have you checked the intercooler itself for a leak or blockage? He checked them.
Have you carefully inspected the VV control hose and controller? I think he checked...

3) noises
What sort of noise is it? A tick-tick-tick... sound
Is it rpm dependent or road speed dependent? Not that I could tell.
Does it happen all the time, or is it intermittent? They installed a new lift pump for me too (solenoid based) and didn't put in an isolation grommet. After they did, the ticking was quieter, so I'm fair sure that is the problem.

The Jeep appears to be running fine now with ample torque due to little resistance out of the exhaust.

The exhaust is clear, but a little more diesel smell (probably the cat converter not engaged to burn residue). The challenge now becomes welding a new cat converter into the exhaust. I kind of like the quick response on the new turbo (not restricted by exhaust).

What is the best solution for a cat converter so that I don't end up with a clogged one again?

Again, thanks for your help on this last month of issues. You guys are a blessing! :JEEPIN:

LMWatBullRun wrote:

Agree w Geordi, guys, let's stay focused on the problem at hand.
The financial aspects of this situation however unfortunate are not our business.

please permit me some questions:

1) coolant loss.
How much is lost?
Where is it coming from?
Are there signs of coolant in the oil?
Is there coolant in the driver's side of the coolant reservoir?

2) boost loss
Have you carefully checked the intercooler hoses?
Have you checked the intercooler itself for a leak or blockage?
Have you carefully inspected the VV control hose and controller?

3) noises
What sort of noise is it?
Is it rpm dependent or road speed dependent?
Does it happen all the time, or is it intermittent?

Answers to these questions would be helpful.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Oct 13, 2013 11:44 pm

More flies with honey, yada yada yada... And yet, they still "found a plugged cat" that didn't exist. If the exhaust was blocked, you would never have been able to get it above 30mph, if even that high. I know - I drove a motorhome that MELTED the front of the cat from age and probably running far too rich (it was a rental so I don't know the history) but I have the pieces of melted platinum as a souvenir from the Virginia mechanic that "solved" the problem for us.

How did that RV drive? Moderately on flat land... But it was defeated by highway overpasses. Once the broomstick treatment had happened... 70mph was no problem at all.

I don't know where the problem was on yours, maybe the turbo WAS on its way out... But I know where the problem wasn't. The cat. They owe you a new one, FREE. Remind them that it is a FEDERAL LAW to have one, and tampering / removing it is a strict no no.

(None of their business if the EGR happens to "fail closed" and you forget to get that fixed...) nobody will ever look for that. An inspection WILL look for the cat.

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sbohner · **Posted:** Mon Oct 14, 2013 12:04 am

Thanks Geordi!

You keep it useful and fun. The mechanic reasoned that the cat converter was going bad and caused the turbo to go prematurely. My suspicion is that the heavy dose of black smoke coupled with moisture clogged up the cat when it was running rough after the ARP install.

One think I know is that I like that torqy little CRD and hope it is soon back to working properly. Wish there was a way to have a 5 speed manual on this little fella.

Had ARP studs installed and now no turbo boost...

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