upgrading my liberty

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Sat Dec 14, 2013 10:54 pm

New guy here, but have been lurking on here for over a year now. theres more knowledge here than anywhere else on the web. Some quick history, I bought my 05 liberty with 108k miles, dealer said they did the "100,000 mile service" not sure what that meant at the time. reading through the owners manual and here I found out about the timing belt replacement. I did the ehm and map sensor cleansing at 112k. anyways it now has 148,xxx miles on it and the timing belt went. it didn't snap, just sheared a bunch of teeth off the belt. fiancé called and said it "sounded like a bag of bolts bouncing around in the engine". got it home, popped the cover off to verify the belt was screwed, and ordered parts. waiting on some time so I can pop the head off, im going to get the head hot tanked, valve job. got the arp head bolt kit, head gasket changing kit, samco hoses, all 16 new rockers/lifters, new idlers and tensioners, waterpump, tstat, cummins in-tank lift pump and harness. other than tune/ tc job, wondering if anyone recommends anything else I should change/replace while im this far. I believe in only doing things once. thought of getting injectors tested, but with only 148k I don't really think that's necessary, there also easy to get to anyways. would appreciate any thoughts/ ideas, thanks! also want to add that it has a metal fan, not sure if that was factory or not. also plan on thoroughly cleaning the intercooler.

dgeist · **Posted:** Sun Dec 15, 2013 9:16 am

If you have the factory fuel filter and head, now might be a good time to go to a racor or stanadyne unit. Also, your viscous fan clutch is probably in need of replacement. $35 and 5 minutes while the fan is our gets that out of the way.

Dan

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Dec 15, 2013 9:38 am

Add replacing the glow plugs to your list while you are in there. Also consider blocking off the EGR valve, doing away with the coolant hoses to/from the EGR and removing the butterfly plate in the FCV (flow control valve). All easy to do items while you got everything apart! Your motor will love you for it!!!! :SOMBRERO:

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 15, 2013 10:58 am

This is exactly what I was wanting. Where's the best place to get the viscous clutch?
The egr is a no brainer, I already disabled it at 112k, does completely blocking it off help more? I can easily make a block off plate. I wanted to get the etechno plugs, but I don't want to wait till after the first of the year to get them. And idparts states there's are on order. I bought some extra slightly used ones off eBay before the ceramic ones were completely gone. Maybe someone on here has a set they'd let go of?
I thought about the fcv, does it restrict flow that much? I know it only closes at shutdown, and would be glad to get rid of it if it gains more mpgs. I love the mileage this thing gets (average 32.1 @70mph, 28.7 city/mixed) just wish it had a bit more room in it. I really want to trade up to the grand Cherokee diesel, but won't due to all the emissions bs on them now.

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 15, 2013 11:06 am

Something I forgot to add in the first post. I was having black smoke coming out of the exhaust when I first got it. Changed fuel and air filter, did some hard accelerating to clean out the muffler, still would have some light smoke on accelerating. Took the factory airbox out and made a "cold air" intake with cone filter. Smoke went away and haven't seen it since. It doesn't even buildup in the muffler anymore. Someday I'd like to build a sealed airbox to keep it from sucking some engine heat in. I think the engineers underestimated how much air a diesel will move. I've seen a few other crds and they all smoked a lil, one looked like a full size truck with a programmer on it. Thanks everyone for the ideas.

Hexus · **Posted:** Sun Dec 15, 2013 5:09 pm

I never had any black smoke come out of mine until about 2 months prior to an exploding lifter with several rockers damaged.

Not saying you'll experience that, just that's when I really started to notice mine.

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 15, 2013 6:09 pm

Finally got valve cover off today, what a pain. One question tho, has anyone completely deleted the intake elbow with the fcv? If I'm gonna remove the egr, and take out the plate on the fcv I might as well just make a whole new elbow. Didn't know if anyone has or what the thoughts are. Would disconnecting the fcv throw a cel?

dgeist · **Posted:** Sun Dec 15, 2013 10:40 pm

diesel_guy86 wrote:

This is exactly what I was wanting. Where's the best place to get the viscous clutch?

I got mine at O'Reilly auto parts, it's a Hayden 2905. Amazon is a good source, too...summit racing, etc.

diesel_guy86 wrote:

I thought about the fcv, does it restrict flow that much? I know it only closes at shutdown, and would be glad to get rid of it if it gains more mpgs.

It doesn't really restrict much (if at all) assuming it doesn't get stuck closed or half closed. You're right that it's almost always full open, except on actual shutdown (and then it flaps back open 10 seconds after you kill the ignition) and in cases where the computer is actuating the EGR. It's used to "mix" the proper amount of intake air with the egr. It might use a venturi effect by creating a mild suction over the egr port. The other issue is that it has plastic gears that tend to implode and make crunchy noises and scare your spouse when they drive the jeep. I unplugged mine while it was open and never looked back.

Dan

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Mon Dec 16, 2013 12:04 am

Thanks guys! I think I'm just gonna fab my own intake elbow to help clean things up a bit. Is the upgrade fan a metal or nylon one?
When I pulled my injectors 2 of the 4 had cut/damaged o-rings, with one of them having some gray sludge on it. Not sure if it was some sort of jelly/grease from factory or what? Guess I'll drop those off at the injection shop to be checked. She oughta run like a new one after all this. Sucks hearing all these people having bad luck with them and talking them down so much, mines been nothing short of great up until now and that was my fault for listening to the dealer. Would love to get a gde tune to open it back up, I'm only 45mins from there but can't ever find the time to get up there.

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:57 am

Where has everyone gotten there miller tools? I've been searching for a week and can't find hardly anything. Of course looking for timing pins, and the pins that help with the valve cover installation.

Billwill · **Posted:** Mon Dec 16, 2013 10:07 am

diesel_guy86 wrote:

Thanks guys! Is the upgrade fan a metal or nylon one?

I believe the Hayden viscous clutch that dgeist is refering to is only the viscous clutch....the Hayden is reputed to be much more durable than standard. I have seen different opinions on the fitting of the nylon fan....see what the other members here have to say. :wink:

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Dec 16, 2013 10:35 am

You can fab your own cam pins based on the dimensions at viewtopic.php?f=98&t=72201 or http://www.beesvillebeefarm.com/jeep.html and a 6mm allen key works just fine for a flywheel pin (see the 05 FSM for how to). As to the pins to aid in reinstalling the valve cover IIRC they can be fabed from standard metric bolts but I don't have the dimensions.

Fan question - Hayden severe duty 2905 is the best replacement for the OEM fan and can be obtained from local parts stores or Amazon for ca $44, the original is a bear to remove (Beesville link speaks to how) but once off if you apply some anti-seize to the threads future removal is a breeze. You can stick with the metal fan or spring for the nylon fan (52079654AE) which might or might not be lighter and move more air, I do not know for sure. stoutdog had no issues with nylon fan in Tempe, AZ summers including pulling a fully loaded 5/8 uhaul behind a fully loaded 06 CRD. If the fan is out do a fan shroud mode to make future access easier see viewtopic.php?f=98&t=64278&p=709322#p709322

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Dec 16, 2013 10:36 am

To answer a few of your questions:
I do not think there is much to be gained by replacing the FCV elbow. With the EGR valve blocked off the FCV will try and force more flow from the EGR even though it is not available. On my CRD it kept setting a CEL till I removed the plate out of the FVC. Another member on this list alerted me about this. Just remove the plate out of the FVC and leave it plugged up, the OBC will think everything is working fine.

As to the locking pins; got mine from England off Ebay:

Quote:

Sealey VSE5056 Diesel Engine Setting/Locking Kit - Belt Drive

price was much less than everywhere else I looked. Made my own cam gear locking tool. :-)r

connolcj · **Posted:** Mon Dec 16, 2013 12:57 pm

diesel_guy86 wrote:

This is exactly what I was wanting. Where's the best place to get the viscous clutch?
The egr is a no brainer, I already disabled it at 112k, does completely blocking it off help more? I can easily make a block off plate. I wanted to get the etechno plugs, but I don't want to wait till after the first of the year to get them. And idparts states there's are on order. I bought some extra slightly used ones off eBay before the ceramic ones were completely gone. Maybe someone on here has a set they'd let go of?
I thought about the fcv, does it restrict flow that much? I know it only closes at shutdown, and would be glad to get rid of it if it gains more mpgs. I love the mileage this thing gets (average 32.1 @70mph, 28.7 city/mixed) just wish it had a bit more room in it. I really want to trade up to the grand Cherokee diesel, but won't due to all the emissions bs on them now.

What are your mods currently? I'm just curious to see if its your driving skills or mods that are allowing the great mpgs. Kinda jealous

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Mon Dec 16, 2013 8:52 pm

Only mods are the orm and ehm, along with a conical filter. I use 0W40 oil, 40psi air pressure, and I just replaced all 4 pads/rotors/ and calipers. Shop owner said the liberty's are known for having rear caliper problems. Also changed the u joints. On way down to south Carolina from Ohio I averaged 34.5 the whole trip, way back was 32.1. I got 37 once following close to the car in front of me for 35 miles. I always speed up to 62mph when it locks the tc, then set the cruise on 60. Will be interesting to see what happens when I replace the tstat as I'm sure its stuck open.

dgeist · **Posted:** Tue Dec 17, 2013 10:45 am

diesel_guy86 wrote:

Only mods are the orm and ehm, along with a conical filter. I use 0W40 oil, 40psi air pressure, and I just replaced all 4 pads/rotors/ and calipers. Shop owner said the liberty's are known for having rear caliper problems. Also changed the u joints. On way down to south Carolina from Ohio I averaged 34.5 the whole trip, way back was 32.1. I got 37 once following close to the car in front of me for 35 miles. I always speed up to 62mph when it locks the tc, then set the cruise on 60. Will be interesting to see what happens when I replace the tstat as I'm sure its stuck open.

You may want to read-up on the oil weight you're using. Although Chrysler specifies 0w40 in the US, it appears that's the ONLY place it's used. Most international VM applications specify 5w40. You may get a SLIGHT mpg increase using the lighter weight, but few would argue with switching to the slightly heavier stuff for long-term durability, based on some of the results folks have had here. There are numerous discussion threads on the topic so I won't beat it to death.

On the viscous fan clutch, I learned a neat trick about replacement last week. Once you DO get it off and put anti-seize on it, you only need to thread the replacement on finger-tight. Since it's a reverse-rotation application, the first time you rev the engine after the install, it'll torque itself the rest of the way, making a strange, but not scary, noise in the process.

Dan

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 17, 2013 3:36 pm

I thought 40 weight was 40 weight, with the "w" showing what viscosity the oil is at freezing temp. I did notice a mpg decrease when I used Mobil 1 turbo diesel truck oil. My only complaint is the only place I can get 0w40 is at auto zone.

dgeist · **Posted:** Tue Dec 17, 2013 10:33 pm

diesel_guy86 wrote:

I thought 40 weight was 40 weight, with the "w" showing what viscosity the oil is at freezing temp. I did notice a mpg decrease when I used Mobil 1 turbo diesel truck oil. My only complaint is the only place I can get 0w40 is at auto zone.

You're right (I think...I always get it mixed up). Frankly, both are a little tricky to find. 5w40 full synthetic is becoming more common on the shelves.

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 17, 2013 11:22 pm

Too bad they couldnt use 15w40 like everything else. I have a couple 55 gallon drums of it at the shop.

mrkake · **Posted:** Wed Dec 18, 2013 1:27 am

Interesting that you found the locking pins in the UK. I never thought to look over the pond. I wonder if this would work for the cam pulleys? http://www.toolstop.co.uk/sealey-vs777x-twin-camshaft-locking-tool-set-p55630 I've got 3 CRD's approaching 100k and I would prefer to just buy my own tools to do the job.

upgrading my liberty

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