Hi All,

I am having some issues with these codes I just pulled using Autoenginuity. My Cruise Control does not work and I suspect it is due to the ABS errors. Funny thing is, I have no ABS light on, and I can check the speed sensors (they each show MPH) using the AE software while I am driving, so it seems they are working. Can anyone give me insight as to what is up?



Thanks for the help!

Nick

All of the "P" type codes I have been able to look up and figure out. The problem I am having is with the ABS codes. I can't find any info on them. Or how to correct them... Like I mentioned, with Autoenginuity running on my laptop and hooked up to the jeep, I can drive and see each wheel speed in the live data meter. The wheel sensor speeds match the speedo too. So I'm at a loss as to why it is reporting all these ABS errors.

Any thoughts as to what it can be? I have tried clearing the codes, but it does not seem to clear...

Thanks,

Nick

Hi Nick. Have you spread the scales as far as possible to show an odd glitches that might show an intermittent - like doing a driving wiggle test.
I note that 28FE and 30FE appear twice - these pids could indicate an intermittent fault with left rear pick up. They go to a 2 wire twisted wire which might be chaffed and be shorting across itself, to ground or to the WSS (wheel speed sensor) - generally short to ground would be indicated by C1020 however.
The connector to the WSS should have >10.0V @ connector pin #1 and @ pin # 2 on the same connector it should only have less than 1.0V. Amp output is 7 mA to 14 mA (remembering Amps are measured in series whilst Volts are in parallel).

Did you do the driving test in a dad straight line from a stop to 25 mph (40 km/h) and how do the 4 sensors compare - I note you compared to the speedometer but they really should be compared to one another. Observer of course or data log and playback after the event.

I also discovered since we last communicated that we can engage the abs pump for bleeding. I found that part Reactivated the feature on my Proline and all went well.

This discrepancy could explain why cruise control won't engage as if it notes that the Left rear (seems to be the most unreliable sensor) is undergoing a braking action then it wouldn't permit the BCM to engage Cruise.
There are a host of quite easy tests in the Manual for the wheel speed sensors so it could be tested. Don't know what they are worth - not too much I think I've read.

This could also affect the cluster module - you could test put that into countdown easily with the AE as you need to.
Cheers.

Auberon,

Thanks for the reply, I forgot to mention that my Liberty is a 2005, so I think it only has one sensor in the rear(on top of the diff). Which really seems odd that I am getting error codes for both right rear and left rear. Shouldn't there only be 3 sensors that I can see and measure?

I did drive it straight for a while and compared all four speed sensor readings, the were all the same. I wonder if someone replaced the ABS module and did not have it reprogrammed to this truck? If it even needs that to be done, I am not sure.

I did check and trace all of the wires/harnesses back as far as I could, no damage was found.

It could also be that the batteries are dead in your TPMS unit inside your tires. It is 9 model years old now, mine were all dead last year and I have a 2006.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
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Good thought but if the batteries were dead/dying in the TPMS Nick would be getting a Checksum error - TPMS on AE.
This uses s 2 wire system - so as you found no damage it may point to the sensor being at fault.
The error code(s) is an odd one (as you note) - pointing to ABS control module but that is not where you would expect to look.
Nick it is possible that is was replaced. I suspect you are correct. They need to be Vin'd and the like. Perhaps it is looking for more messaging than it is getting. You should be able to excercise selected components of it under Enhanced drivetrain - by checking the boxes in that list appearing in the on screen window.
In that window you should be able to address the individual valving of the ABS module....so if it's there it's probably expecting the messages.
What yours shows up will be different to mine for comparison sake, unfortunately - so it would be interesting to see what you can access via that list - it would probably have alternator at the top of the list but what follows is dependent on your vehicle.

As far as I know: using a DVM (the 2 wire systems don't take to analogue investigations).
V should be between 10.0 and 12.0 V on pin 1 of the connector (KOEO - key on engine off).
Current should be between 7 mA and 700 mA (between pins 1 and 2 of the connector) - will check 2005 specs and advise if this is wrong.....if I can find it in the manual of course.

I am impressed you were actually able to pull ABS codes. So far I don't think anyone had found a scanner other than the DRBIII/Starscan that could pull ABS codes.

Now consider the differences between the 05 and 06 as far as the rear sensors go, is it possible the scanner is not differentiating between the two years properly and giving you false codes for the back?

You do have one code for your LF wheel speed sensor....I would start there and see if it fixes your problem. Also the P2299 code might cause your cruise control issues.

_________________
2006 Liberty CRD Limited

Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16

Ok, just did some more testing with AE. All of the Anti-lock codes are "stored codes" and not current codes. I did pull the rear sensor and it did throw a "current code". Once I plugged it back in, I was able to clear it and the ABS light went out. So I guessing the stored codes cannot be deleted with AE.

As for the Enhanced Powertrain and the BCM codes, they are all current codes. But some are strange, such as the incorrect key. I thought the truck would not run with the incorrect key? I only have one key, but all functions work on it (start, door lock/unlock, etc). So that one is strange... I am wondering if some of these codes are false. I know a few of them are in a TSB I read someplace about erroneous codes...

The P2299 code I will have to some research on and see what that is all about.

And for using AE, it does do injector disable tests, RPM tests, etc. on the 2005... Good stuff for diagnosing!

P2299 is stored when accel pedal is above a certain % and the brake switch is activated on its pedal at same time for too long. It detects "two-foot" and cuts engine power. Not the most driver friendly rig.

The switch on the brake pedal might need adjustment. The secondary brake switch is linked to pressure circuit. It most likely would cut the cruise.

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Thanks, I am going to pull the pedal tomorrow and check it over. I already checked the brake switch, and AE shows that it is working (0 or 1) when tested/depressed. I know it is a two pole switch, and I checked it (both poles) with a ohm meter to make sure it was activating/deactivating.

Does anyone know if the accel pedal position switch is adjustable? It idles at 750 and the pedal does not stick. And I don't drive with two feet, so both brake and accel are not used at the same time so thats not it. Do you know what the percent the accel pedal should be at rest (idle)? I can see that in AE too. Maybe it needs to be adjusted...

Thanks for the help!

Nick

Apparently mine starts too quickly and I also have the wrong key. I have ignored these messages as they only come up with a deep probe. Perhaps we need a new battery in the key fob (?). That should be OK if there is a spare functioning key to retrain the key I would be thinking to do without a dealer. I'd be thinking of removing the battery and testing it with the really hunky dory tester (with built in load). I have to work this out and then replacing and driving off my wife's key while I replace and using her key to retrain it. [b]Will advise[/b] - but I wasn't giving this any urgency as it runs perfectly other than surrendering a code in enhanced drivetrain.

Also if you have a compressor you might find that a light blow of air through the track followed by the acc pedal sensor will help.
People argue (correctly) that it's a hall effect device but in certain soil types mini(micro) meteorites can accrue in the track and put it off, with it being magnetic. You can pick these up with a fairly weak magnet in school playgrounds or roadways and on your shoes and they throw the sensor off. Sounds weird but its worth a try. I had similar acc pedal anomolies and blew the track out - haven't had them since.

750 is close to correct idle speed so you could again spread the scale (making max range 2000 rpm) to see if you get any blips on the readout. I'd be guessing you already know not to remove the switch by your statement about removing the pedal - they are supposed to be a one time install only.
Can't answer about the acc pedal adjustment though.

If the codes don't recurr they will go away after 40(?) warm up cycles for hard codes and 3 or 5 for soft codes after clearing. It (ECU) keeps a record for the 40 cycles even after clearing them successfully so you can refer back for recurring codes (I think). You should be able to clear them unless the problem is continually present - it sounds like you are working your way through this.

Hopefully you'll get cruise back with this resolved Nick.
You could also have a look at www.liberty.eurekaboy.com/abs.htm - hope that is useful.

Even if you drive with one foot it is possible to trip a "two" foot situation especially if you have big feet and/or large shoes by pressing the go pedal while accidentally overlapping the brake pedal. The reverse is also possible as an antilock brake pedal goes much further down toward the floor than one without antilock. I know as I've done it but only very rarely

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