Standard procedure -- Batten down the head bolts

racertracer · **Posted:** Mon Jan 13, 2014 11:25 pm

We should all make wrenching down the head bolts part of the timing belt maintenance.

it's only a few more steps to get the head cover off so why not do it.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Jan 14, 2014 12:12 am

I'll let you revise this posting after you have done the extra work to get the top off.

I don't disagree that you should always (at least) re-torque the head bolts if you DO have reason to take the valve cover off... But that is a big-ole bowl of suckage to just do it for the fun of it. You are talking about adding 3 hours to the timing belt job, and risking knocking the rockers off when putting the cover back on. It is a hard thing to master. Even I am second guessing myself on whether every rocker is where it is supposed to be with that job.

flman · **Posted:** Tue Jan 14, 2014 7:37 am

Mine were all tight except for one in the back that was no where near the HG leak.

Hexus · **Posted:** Tue Jan 14, 2014 2:35 pm

racertracer wrote:

We should all make wrenching down the head bolts part of the timing belt maintenance.

it's only a few more steps to get the head cover off so why not do it.

I PM'd this to someone the other day, please KEEP IN MIND it is vague and not at all specific, was going strictly from memory.

To say it's "just a little further" than doing the timing belt is a bit of an understatement. First you have to break loose the nuts on the Cam Sprockets and remove them from the front of the timing belt area. Then you have to remove the entire wiring harness across the top of the engine, remove the CCV, remove the high pressure fuel rail, remove all 4 injectors, disconnect the EGR elbow from the top right side of the intake, and then remove the 17 bolts holding the intake on. Once you do lift the intake off you expose all of your rockers and lifters and your head studs sit right there with them. I would say if you are going to do the head studs you should probably go ahead and pull the old gasket and replace it while you're right there.

Then you would replace the rockers and lifters, dipping each in oil before placing it and then coating the rockers and lifters in assembly lube before putting the intake back on. When you put the intake back on, you have to use spacers to slide it down directly on top so you don't knock off any of the rockers because they literally just sit on top of the lifters and can be flicked off with your finger, never the less knocked off with the intake.

Then you have to tighten all 17 bolts in specific order, rebuild the fuel rail, renew all the crush washers and gaskets on all 4 injectors, replace all 4 injectors, re-assemble the fuel line, re-install new gaskets on the EGR intake elbow, re-attach those 4 sensored word sideways bolts without stripping them, and then you are back at the procedure for the timing belt re-assembly.

It sounds complicated, but it really isn't that bad, it is just time consuming.

I didn't even mention the 14-17 10mm bolts holding the stupid rear timing belt cover on.

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Jan 14, 2014 3:30 pm

The extra time is expected and it is still less than if having to do it all over again.

It's called cheap insurance and taking advantage of doing the work while you're there.

Hexus · **Posted:** Tue Jan 14, 2014 4:13 pm

racertracer wrote:

The extra time is expected and it is still less than if having to do it all over again.

It's called cheap insurance and taking advantage of doing the work while you're there.

I concede to your point here, just not your statement.

To say it's "Just a few extra steps." is like saying you are driving from Louisville to Indianapolis and that Chicago is just "A few extra miles," when in fact it more than doubles the trip.

See what I'm saying?

flman · **Posted:** Tue Jan 14, 2014 5:17 pm

I would probably just pull the head and throw a new gasket in there if I had to pull the valve cover, or just give it ARP studs if I thought the gasket was 100% A OK.

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Jan 14, 2014 5:19 pm

Yes but it's still less than the whole trip and if you're already on your way, than plan ahead and finish the trip.

It's the proper way to eliminate future headaches..... spoken by someone who experienced those headaches several times and back to back.

kjjet · **Posted:** Tue Jan 14, 2014 7:27 pm

If your that worried about the head gasket to take off an intake just to check the torque of the head bolts? I would just remove the head also. It's not too much more work. Plus.. tightening the bolts may cause more damage than good?? Most engine shops would never do it. I would say if your jeep gets to the 2nd belt change. Remove the head.

To answer your question: NO I would not.

Standard procedure -- Batten down the head bolts

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