May have damaged something while boosting CRD...

voodooone · **Joined:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:13 pm **Posts:** 38

geordi wrote:

I hate to ask the obvious questions, but the fuel filter housing button is firm, yes? No air in the fuel head? No leak from the side drain being left open?

Everything looks ok. I will re-check. Maybe with the warmer temp something has change.

geordi wrote:

In order to know when to inject fuel, the ECU must know where the engine is in the cycle. It knows this based on 2 sensors. The camshaft sensor is on the top of the engine, behind the CCV. It is a magnet sensor. The crankshaft sensor is on the flywheel housing, below the turbo. It is also a magnet sensor. I do not know any reliable way to test either one, but since the camshaft sensor is easier to get to, I would try replacing that one first.

Ok, I'll try to locate the CCV and then the camshaft sensor.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Jan 15, 2014 4:22 pm

CCV is the hockey puck on the left side as you are facing the engine.

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dirtmover · **Posted:** Wed Jan 15, 2014 7:50 pm

Did you pull any codes?

voodooone · **Joined:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:13 pm **Posts:** 38

A friend has a reader. I don't remember for sure but I think it was P1648. I do remember him telling me it was the GP controller.
I changed it, no result. We haven't had time to re-check.

But even with unplugging the ecm, the check engine is still on...

voodooone · **Joined:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:13 pm **Posts:** 38

On the fuel filter assembly.
There's 2 plugs. One the 2 (right one) seems to have fuel in-on-around it.
Is that normal ?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Jan 16, 2014 5:50 pm

NO. Several folks have mentioned air in the fuel as potentially being part of the problem so have you bleed the fuel head, see Sir Sams NOOB guide for a how to video. There are 2 OEM fuel filter heads. The original one pictured in the main NOOB thread that has 2 plugs that are black in color with the driver's side one being the smaller of the 2 and the 2n gen one pictured at the end of the bleeding video where the 2 plugs are the same size and the driver side one is blue. That plug is the heater element plug and the original small plug is a well known and much discussed problem point; see lengthy discussion at viewtopic.php?f=98&t=24616 . If there is ANY indication of fuel in or near that plug that's a prime source of air in the fuel not to mention a potential engine fire source. By any indication of fuel I mean even the slightest; in my case I was having air in the fuel problems with no apparent leak in that fitting until I pulled it out and wiped the inside with a "Q" tip and sniffed the delightful smell of diesel on the "Q" tip.

So if that plug is leaking you need to get a 2n gen fuel filter head and wiring pigtail, runs ca. $100 or a bit more, ASAP. If the leak is minor in the interim you can unplug the wiring and move it well out of the way and after de-dieseling the hole plug it with some sort of diesel resistant caulk. If the leak is more than minor and it was me I'd park the vehicle until a new fuel filter head is installed.

voodooone · **Joined:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:13 pm **Posts:** 38

1st thing thru my mind upon mention ''fire possibility''

http://www.google.ca/imgres?safe=off&sa=X&biw=1540&bih=877&tbm=isch&tbnid=ikziektw4wTBQM%3A&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DWesw7vTC1Co&docid=zavN2UN7mkfYTM&imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fi1.ytimg.com%2Fvi%2FWesw7vTC1Co%2Fmaxresdefault.jpg&w=1280&h=720&ei=npXYUobXNYa6rQGLu4CYBQ&zoom=1&ved=0CHoQhBwwBQ&iact=rc&dur=349&page=1&start=0&ndsp=26

Thank you that is helpfull.
Could it be that I over primed with the button ?

CATCRD · **Posted:** Thu Jan 16, 2014 10:49 pm

The injectors won't fire until the ECM receives crank position sensor (rpm) and fuel rail pressure signals. See if someone can scan those values while you crank.

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Jan 17, 2014 4:10 am

what does OBD II code P1648 mean

Possible causes

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=61378

P1684-BATTERY WAS DISCONNECTED
ECM TCM RESET

Definition of Diagnostic Trouble Code P1648

Chrysler: Glow Plug Module Internal
Dodge: Glow Plug Module Internal
Jeep: Glow Plug Module Internal

kjjet wrote:

racertracer I thought you unplugged the ECM when you had this problem? KJJET

I did unplug it and it worked for me, but it hasn't worked for the OP.

I would unplug the TCM and allow it to reset also, I was reading on another forum, separate from the CRD, that this code affects the TCM and weird shifting.

Doesn't hurt to try at this point.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Jan 17, 2014 1:31 pm

voodooone wrote:

On the fuel filter assembly.
There's 2 plugs. One the 2 (right one) seems to have fuel in-on-around it.
Is that normal ?

DING DING DING! We have a winnah!

If you have fuel around that plug (especially a decent amount) then you have an AIR LEAK and the fuel pump is sucking air IN and not fuel.

No fuel = no vroom. These things are surprisingly sensitive to air leaks, especially when starting. Do as Papaindigo says in his post, replace that fuel head with the second generation, re-fill the new filter with fresh diesel and prime the head again. THEN after a couple cycles of cranking, the pump should have fuel and it should fire.

voodooone · **Joined:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:13 pm **Posts:** 38

When I first checked that part, it seemed ok. I let the air out (very little) I did not noticed any fuel near or around the area.
I forgot to mention that I had done this.
It's only on further inspection that I actually disconnected the two plugs that I saw the fuel and the ''burned looking plug''.

I will order the parts locally but first I want to check in the U.S. in case it's cheaper... Any places to suggest ?

Also:
Someone mentioned that since I boosted with a Dodge RAM, the 24v (dual battery) system of the Hemi may have blown something on my Liberty...
Does that make any sense ?

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Jan 17, 2014 9:44 pm

voodooone wrote:

I boosted with a Dodge RAM, the 24v (dual battery) system of the Hemi may have blown something on my Liberty...
Does that make any sense ?

Well you should have said that ..... you probably fried your Electronic Control Module (ECU).

You need to have it inspected for trouble. I would send it to Keith at GDE and let him see if it's any good, he may be able to salvage it.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Jan 17, 2014 10:09 pm

Dual battery does NOT mean it was a 24 volt system unless the batteries were wired in SERIES (positive to negative) and that would be highly unusual for a normal Dodge truck. Even big semi trucks are 12 volt systems, and they have 4 or 6 batteries. All wired in parallel.

Parallel wiring just doubles the overall capacity (amperage) but the voltage stays the same. Series wiring doubles the voltage and keeps the amperage the same.

The engine WOULD NOT CRANK AT ALL if the computer was fried. Your computer IS FINE.

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Jan 17, 2014 10:12 pm

Have it checked out, I believe it's damaged.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Jan 17, 2014 11:00 pm

Try this - Both of you.

Unplug the ECU from the harness to simulate a 'bad' ECU, and then try to start the engine.

This is NOT like the old days where simply turning the key to the start position would send power to a relay and that relay would send power to the starter. The computer is the ONLY thing that will allow the starter to turn. If you bought a computer from a junkyard, it would allow your engine to crank all day long, but as soon as the engine started, it would shut it off within 2 seconds because of the key mismatch to your key. If the airbags were deployed, it would only allow the engine to engage the starter for about 1/2 of a second, then it would cut the power to the starter because of the 'safety stop' of the airbag system having set a code. It would only do that once, proving that the computer works and prevents any damage to the engine.

Ask Keith about this. I sent him a computer I bought from a boneyard for the guy in Argentina who had a confirmed-dead ECU. His CRD wouldn't do anything. I tried testing the boneyard ECU (airbag deployment from the wreck) in my CRD, and the 1/2 second spurt was all it would do. Keith reset it, and the guy in Argentina is driving around happy.

voodooone · **Joined:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:13 pm **Posts:** 38

My first post on this thread mentioned 5.7 Ram.
I just lurned today that their was such a thing has dual battery Ram's...

I will start with replacing the fuel head 'cause it's obviously leaking but I'm keeping all of your suggestions on note.

I'll keep refreshing the thread till the problem is solved.

Thanks and if you have further ideas, keep em coming !

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Jan 18, 2014 10:03 am

Not a 5.7 Dodge Ram. The Dodge Ram Cummins engine from 1989-mid-2007 model year was a 5.9L 12 or 24 valve engine.

That said my 93 had dual batteries and my 1998 or so had a single battery but they both had a 12v electrical system for whatever that's worth.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 18, 2014 12:11 pm

Yeah the "dual battery" ram did no damage. Just like our crd's require a lot of amperage to crank over a big cummins takes even more and they achieve this with a 2nd battery in parallel.

I myself used to run a total of 4 batteries in my jeep for stereo purposes

voodooone · **Joined:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:13 pm **Posts:** 38

$162 + $24 + taxes... 2 parts...

If a part is changed because it breaks down often enough to warrant a redesign, the 1st replacement should be free.
Lengthy debate...

I will install the parts this weed-end and come back with news.

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Jan 21, 2014 3:41 pm

voodooone wrote:

$162 + $24 + taxes... 2 parts...

If a part is changed because it breaks down often enough to warrant a redesign, the 1st replacement should be free.
Lengthy debate...

I will install the parts this weed-end and come back with news.

What were the parts, what was the problem.... don't leave us in the dark.??????

May have damaged something while boosting CRD...

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