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 Post subject: EGT/Boost/Oil Pressure Gauge
PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 12:32 am 
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Location: Dubuque, IA
I would like to install a GlowShift 3 in 1 gauge while I have everything apart for a head gasket change. (that will start next week sometime)
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/3in1-EGT-Boost-and-Pressure.aspx

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I know the intake manifold can be drilled and tapped for boost. (No worry about metal chips if its off anyway)

Geordi has a nice how to for an oil pressure gauge here:
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=74754

Just wondering if anyone has heat issues with their oil pressure sender and wiring in the area.

And lastly for EGT, is it better to be closer to the turbo inlet, or perhaps on the turbo itself? Or is anywhere between the exhaust valve and before the turbo good enough?

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2005 131k 3.7 Gasser (Lifted-CRD Springs, 4.10 Gears, F+R DTT, Teraflex 2wd Low, Skidrow/Mopar Skids, Rock Lizard Super Skinks, Goodyear Wrangler Authority 31x10.5-15)
2012 Triumph Tiger (TKC 80 Front Tire Heidnau K60 Rear, Crash Bars, Skid Plate, Bark Busters, Pelican Case Top Box)


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 Post subject: Re: EGT/Boost/Oil Pressure Gauge
PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 5:05 am 
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Last edited by Glend on Thu Mar 13, 2014 5:00 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: EGT/Boost/Oil Pressure Gauge
PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 10:57 am 
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Do you have to drill and tap the manifold to get an EGT sensor in there?

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 Post subject: Re: EGT/Boost/Oil Pressure Gauge
PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 11:34 am 
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Never mind, my bad. Read EGT and thought boost pressure :banghead:

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Last edited by papaindigo on Fri Jan 31, 2014 1:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: EGT/Boost/Oil Pressure Gauge
PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 12:53 pm 
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Like others have said, pre-turbo is the best. You really don't want 1,400°F or higher going into the turbo. Most egt probes use 1/8th pipe thread. You can drill and tap the housing but this usually results in the manifold cracking. Use the weld bung that comes with the kit for best results. The manifold should be cleaned of any rust/ dirt and to do it properly the cast must be heated red hot for proper weld penetration. Others have gotten away without doing the preheat but I've always preheated and haven't had a problem. And it only takes a couple extra minutes.

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05 Liberty Limited CRD, converted to KPA 2863 ball bearing and billet turbo, 50hp injectorsl, complete egr delete, cooling fan delete, weeks intake kit, cummins in tank lift pump, ARP studs, 3" turbo back exhaust, samcos, etecno plugs, GDE trans tune, custom GDE engine tune.


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