There are still a lot of issues associated with fuel heads so I suggest this - hope it is helpful for the Mopar fuel head:

I carry the following with me:
Clear cup with secure plastic lid that has a 1/4 inch diameter spigot for hose to connect to and a 6 to 8 inch length of clear plastic hose.
10 mm AF ring spanner.

Whenever I bleed Mopar heads on the fuel system, I attach the clear tubing to the bleeder nipple and the catch cup after slipping the ring spanner over the nipple.
The process is much like you would bleed brakes.
Pressurise (6 pumps).
Release (push the spanner handle to the rear of the vehicle if it is at the top).
Lock off (lightly) when flow stops by lightly pulling the spanner forwards each time.
Observe bubbles travelling along the tubing (if any).
Repeat until no bubbles can be seen.
To be really sure:
For 4 - 6 times repeat, ensuring the system is totally free of air.
Remember to lock off reasonably securely each time.

For a new filter, (filter change) pre-fill the filter with very clean diesel.
Also remember to smear fuel on the gasket surfaces.

This is a better process as you are not relying on noise / hearing hissing etc.
It is definitive.

Not a bad idea. I have something similar. I bought a kit that included a petcock you attach to the filter head at the bleed port after removing the bleeder screw of course. Attach to this was a clear piece of tubing you run along the fire wall and down to the street. I have installed a lift pump and find the easiest way to bleed my system now is key on open the petcock and once there is no air I close it. No pumping priming involved. Very rarely do I see air now. I think it is mostly from fueling with the engine running more than anything.

Mark

_________________
'97 Wrangler Sahara with some mods.

'06 Liberty CRD Limited GDE Hot Tune, Lift Pump

Head Gasket and Timing Belt Pics