I can't seem to find much info on changing the vacuum actuator on the turbo...is it a cinch? Pain in the a**? somewhere in between? I keep getting 299 codes reoccurring after I deleted them, have a GDE tune I just put in, and all my vacuum lines look good. I have good power in the upper rpm range, but very little torque in the lower rpm's. I also did the boost pressure solenoid bypass test with no luck. I finally hooked a vacuum pump up to the vacuum line going to the actuator on the turbo, and I can't get the rod to budge at all. With the good performance (and I can also hear the turbo whine at higher rpm's), I'm thinking my turbo's alright, just the actuator appear to be bad. Anything I need to know before I dive into this project??


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2006 limited CRD
2003 TJ Wrangler
1953 Willys CJ3A

When that same code appeared on my scanner, it was due to sticky turbo vanes on the exhaust side.

Do the following to clean and purge sticky turbo vanes.

Make sure that the motor oil is at the proper level on the dipstick and perform the old endoscopy turbo health test to determine if your turbo isn't junk. There are many posts on how to perform this test in this forum.

1. While driving on an open highway and at normal cruising speed, allow your engine to reach optimal operating temperature the hotter the better.

2. On a clear stretch of road, press the fuel pedal down hard to the floor board and allow the turbo vanes to be purged of all the caked on carbon build up. You will probably notice a lot of smoke coming out of the exhaust and also that the p0299 code and limp mode have returned, that's expected.

3. Reset the system by turning off the code with your code reader.

4. Perform step 2 again and again and again, until the code remains off and your CRD returns to JET like status.

Be careful an think safety first.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

With constant low boost the vanes are sticking open. Hot exhaust may help, but most likely the turbo will need to come off for deep clean or at least drop the pipe, spray the turbine with penetrating oil (need long nozzle to spray up in and past behind wheel). let it soak a bit, then use a pliers to rotate the vane control rod up/down. if you cannot get the rod to travel at least 1/2 inch, the turbo needs to be removed.

If you get it unstuck, run it very hard for a good 5-10 minutes to burn it clean. Better order a set of samco boost hoses if still using the stock hardware.

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