blown turbo dealer says new exhaust manifold

gbark · **Joined:** Mon Feb 10, 2014 9:00 pm **Posts:** 19

Well I'm pretty sure my turbo went on my liberty this weekend. I was driving it around and came to a stop light and then the smoke started. Smells like burnt oil. Going to take the hoses off and verify that it is but in the mean time I called the dealer to see how long it would take to remove and replace the turbo. Also checked on a price for the turbo. I live in Canada so the price of the turbo is $3500. :ROTFL:

going aftermarket for the turbo (any suggestions) but the question is they told me there is an updated exhaust manifold. Anyone hear of this? What did they update? Maybe they have found the problem that causes these turbos from blowing up. I was just going to replace the turbo but now I'm thinking I should do both. The manifold is another $600 bucks and they say another 3 hours of work to r and r. Any thoughts on this manifold thing would be appreciated.
Thanks Greg

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Feb 10, 2014 10:39 pm

I haven't heard anything about a change to the manifold, and then the question would be why? Why would Chrysler do anything for an out-of-warranty orphan vehicle that they don't care about?

Talk to IDparts.com for the turbo. Talk to your local Garrett dealer. There will NOT be any core required - if someone asks for a core, walk away. If the price is significantly different from $1200 or so, walk away. If they offer you a rebuilt from anywhere, RUN AWAY!

Any noises? Was the smoke when you were idling or on the throttle? Maybe it was just a hose. Any play in the turbo center?

Hexus · **Posted:** Mon Feb 10, 2014 10:54 pm

There is no updated exhaust manifold that I know of.

gbark · **Joined:** Mon Feb 10, 2014 9:00 pm **Posts:** 19

Haven't had a chance to look at it yet. I left it at a buddy's house and will tow it to mine when I have time. Didn't want to drive it like it is. And it's Canada eh!! It's currently -30* Fahrenheit. No time to be looking at it outside lol. I'm only assuming that it's the turbo because of the amount of smoke both when driving and stopped. And also it went from being full of oil last week to having less than the minimum on the dipstick. The motor has no noise to it but a slight noise from the passenger side after a bit of gas pedal movement. Again I will need to take some hoses off to be sure. Is the garret turbo what came with the liberty off the line? And anyone with info on the manifold chime in please? I'm with you on the updated part for a redhead child like the crd. Why bother now?
Thanks. Greg

Glend · **Posted:** Tue Feb 11, 2014 12:01 am

Before you panic just make sure the oil return line bung has not split and run down on the exhaust - check the simplest possible cause first. You have my sympathies, far too many times trying to get cars going in Alberta in the middle of winter.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Feb 11, 2014 12:50 am

Losing that much oil definitely suggests the turbo, and is also a major concern for me.

As for the temps outside... Its Canada, eh? Have a Timmy and get on it! :mrgreen:

(Yeah, I wouldn't be outside in that crap either!)
Then again... Looking at the images of your women's Olympic Curling team certainly would keep me warm. Why do you keep all the pretty ones up there to yourselves? :banghead:

The Garrett turbo was the one supplied from the factory. Any Garrett dealer will be able to get you the same one. In American monies it sells for around $1200... So probably something like $400 in those beaver bucks you use, eh? :-)r

It's bizarre how your money is worth more than ours is these days.

The noise you are hearing is probably the turbo just starting to really squeal or possibly impact the housing. I'd suspect that when you get the hose off, there will be quite a lot of play in the shaft. Front to back is usually about 1/32 of an inch or less, and side-to-side should be barely perceptible. Anything more than that... Well there's your problem.

gbark · **Joined:** Mon Feb 10, 2014 9:00 pm **Posts:** 19

Thanks for the replies guys. Love the info that one can get from here. I'm going to call around tomorrow to see if I can find any more info on this exhaust manifold. I'm wondering if they have changed the turbo also. Have it in the back of my head that the person I talked to had know idea what they were talking about and just told me that I needed to change it because the part number changed. Maybe the physical part is the same just a new number?? I will post what I find out tomorrow. Thanks for the help guys
Greg

Hexus · **Posted:** Tue Feb 11, 2014 7:14 am

If they had changed the turbo, trust me, we would know about it.

Your dealer is just typically stupid about these engines. Order a new turbo, and oil lines just to be sure, get that thing into someone's (FRIEND?) heated garage and put the turbo on. Even the slightest bit of mechanical knowledge will allow you to replace the turbo, I did mine in my driveway in about 3 hours taking my time and drinking.

gbark · **Joined:** Mon Feb 10, 2014 9:00 pm **Posts:** 19

I just got off the phone with another dealer and when he looked up the turbo it tells him to get the manifold. He said the part number had a rl number on it? He said that the manifold part number has change but likely just the part number is different not the part. Maybe for some reason they want both parts replaced at once. No idea why unless they were braking studs when removing the turbo so it's easier for them to charge us for the part so they don't have to fight with it. No idea??!! Anyway I'm going to look at the turbo in the next few days to see if it is my problem and will also look at the oil lines. If it is the turbo do you guys think that the intercooler will be full of oil? And I think I know the answer but should I change the turbo intake and cooler hoses?
Thanks Greg

gbark · **Joined:** Mon Feb 10, 2014 9:00 pm **Posts:** 19

I just got off the phone with another dealer and when he looked up the turbo it tells him to get the manifold. He said the part number had a rl number on it? He said that the manifold part number has change but likely just the part number is different not the part. Maybe for some reason they want both parts replaced at once. No idea why unless they were braking studs when removing the turbo so it's easier for them to charge us for the part so they don't have to fight with it. No idea??!! Anyway I'm going to look at the turbo in the next few days to see if it is my problem and will also look at the oil lines. If it is the turbo do you guys think that the intercooler will be full of oil? And I think I know the answer but should I change the turbo intake and cooler hoses?
Thanks Greg

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Feb 11, 2014 11:03 am

Don't crank it up and you really need to quit talking to dealers. My suggestion is to pull the airbox to turbo hose and check the turbo shaft play. If it moves more than a tiny bit fore/aft and a bare hint side to side then the turbo is shot. If the shaft doesn't move as described check for a split/cracked high pressure oil feed line (the skinny one) or a loose connection (upper end likely as the lower end is a simple push into the block fit) on the oil drain line (no split/crack likely as this is just gravity feed).

Assuming the turbo is shot:
1. forget any exhaust manifold issue. There has been no change. Assuming they even have the right part #, which I doubt, an "R" prefix normally means re-manufactured which makes no sense for a manifold.
2. replacing the turbo is a 1-2 hr job under decent working conditions which may be a problem for you unless you can drag/push it into a heated garage or otherwise get it under cover somehow without cranking it up.
3. idParts (http://idparts.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=117) has everything you need and ships across the border
4. what do you need - 1) turbo from idParts; 2) forget the 4 pinch nuts just get appropriate size grade 5+ nuts and lock washers at a local parts store; 3) turbo to manifold gasket from idParts; 4) copper crush washers for oil feed line from local parts store; 5) upper gasket for oil drain line from idParts or cut your own; 6) oil drain line to block push "gasket" probably the current one can be reused or you can get from idParts, I think, or a local dealer (cost should be ca. $10 US). If the oil feed and drain lines are solid they can be reused with suitable new washers/gaskets although I'd advise flushing them with like carb cleaner just because. If they need replacing get from idParts.

The main thing to be aware of doing the job, it's pretty obvious bolting/unbolting, is that the combination of OEM pinch nuts and OEM exhaust manifold studs can be a significant problem as geordi and I well know. If the turbo is shot then while you are waiting on parts to get in on a daily basis give each of the 4 exhaust manifold stud nuts a good soaking of penetrating lube (PB Blaster or some such). That will hopefully free up the nuts so you don't break studs removing the nuts. If studs do break your local parts store can provide replacements.

gbark · **Joined:** Mon Feb 10, 2014 9:00 pm **Posts:** 19

Well after all this I drove to the city with a trailer and loaded up the crd. I decided to drive it on the trailer. I filled the oil up because it was down below the fill line. I started it up...no smoke. loaded it on the trailer...no smoke. I even left it running while I tied it down and it didn't smoke once. No motor noise. Nothing!! Now what would make the jeep dump out that much black smoke and stink like burnt oil for about a 5 min ride low speeds. And then nothing. I have done the crank case mod but my egr is still hooked up. But I can't say enough how much it stunk like burnt oil out the exhaust. Definitely burning oil. Even down on the dipstick. I took it out for a good 15 min ride today both in town and highway and still no smoke. And the motor and turbo both sound good. Another thing to mention is that the day it did this it was -39*c but the jeep was plugged in and warmed up to operating temp. Any opinions on what this was? Would think the turbo but now it's fine?

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2014 11:17 pm

Just a guess, but at -39 you'd have seals that aren't sealing well

you might even have moisture frozen in place like a CCV valve -

that would pressurize parts of the engine that aren't expecting pressure.

be cautious - some damage may have been permanent , some temporary.

toy_vw · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2013 2:50 pm **Posts:** 35

yeah....CCV freezking up is really common..especially if your EHM is right at the bottom of the engine...close to the road and rushing air underneath..see this ALL the time.

First thing you should do...instead of "guessing" is pull your turbo intake plumbing and check the shaft play..

I had mine still boosting correctly and the play along the same axis (blown thrust bearing) was crazy...

Just pull the inlet and check..takes 15 minutes... Underground parking garages work well when your in a pinch...

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Feb 17, 2014 12:37 am

Loss of oil is certainly a big concern.

The only way you will know for certain is to pull the airbox-to-turbo hose (plan to need a replacement if you have the CCV connected) and feel the turbo shaft play. Let us know what you find there, but there shouldn't be much of any play front-to-back, and barely half-a-sheet-of-paper side to side.

pcpeterson · **Joined:** Thu Dec 19, 2013 9:15 pm **Posts:** 4

I had a similar experience with our dealer. I brought our jeep in due to oil leak. Dark oil, so I thought CV joint or something. I was told that I need a new turbo and exhaust manifold. $4000! It had thrown a code for low boost too, which is how I think they based their whole diagnosis. I decided on getting a second opinion from a diesel mechanic. Advice I got from emailing the folks at GDE, by the way. Turns out is was a split in the intake hose that was dripping the oil. Oil enters from the breather hose which apparently connects to the intake hose. New hose=no oil leak. Not sure if your case is exactly the same, but sounds close. I've been doing my own service since, and am surprised how easy it is. One question for anyone out there is why is the oil so dang black? Even a few hundred miles following an oil change? Mobile 1 0W-40.

jeepdan · **Posted:** Mon Feb 17, 2014 4:54 pm

pcpeterson wrote:

One question for anyone out there is why is the oil so dang black? Even a few hundred miles following an oil change? Mobile 1 0W-40.

Welcome
Get a GDE Tune ASP!! Best preventative maintenance dollars that you will spend.
It will pay for itself in MPG increase, that's after you get over the fun of the extra power/ response

Your oil will not even be close to being black after 6000 miles, your engine's life depends on it!

pcpeterson · **Joined:** Thu Dec 19, 2013 9:15 pm **Posts:** 4

Thanks jeepdan. I will order one. Keith at GDE said it should net some better mileage and power, so I look forward to finding out.

blown turbo dealer says new exhaust manifold

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