I'm about to pull the trigger on this Libby. I've been looking for a while but never serious until now. The seller bought it when it just had the motor "rebuilt" at 65K and it now has 89K. Has documentation. Seems legit. It's been a DD with NO mods and never off-roaded. Good maintenance records.

I plan to use it for mild to moderate off-roading (expo style). It will NOT be a DD. I've read many threads that have information overload so I'll just ask this main question:

What would be some of the first and most important mods (not necessarily related to the engine). My main goal is to make it as reliable as possible.

My non *necessary* mods will be a mild lift and beefing up suspension. Larger tires. winch, etc.

Thanks in advance.....

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Marty

'05 CRD, GDE tune(s), JBA stuff, OME, Weeks Stage I & II, "Provent"(custom) +++

Gde tune is the most important since it stops egr. I'd even go as far and say this tune is a must. Egr is probably the worst enemy of this engine. Then Suncoast torque converter, especially if you go offroad. The stock one sucks and will more than like shudder with the tune. You should also consider adding a lift pump, an in-line one is easier to install, Kennedy diesel has good quality stuff. Then the musts are religious oil, belts, filters, etc change. This engine is finicky, but properly maintained, with the tune, works great.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

GDE tune - fixes EGR clogging issue
Lift pump - fixes numerous problems and just makes the vehicle more reliable.
2nd gen Fuel head - if you don't have it, unplug the fuel heater and get the new head. You don't want to burn up on the side of the trail.

Those would be the big three in my book.

Others that are significant improvements
Sears Platinum P1 - 880 CCA's- improve starting.
Replace blower motor resistor with heavier duty Sebring unit. Link

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

Don't bother throwing money into the rabbit hole by buying a bunch of stuff based on what a few people may have had fail at one time.

Buy the truck, toss in a GDE Full Torque Eco tune, an OME lift, and drive it till things start to pop up.

9 days hauling the 1300lbs of dead weight all over the black hills, and not a single hint of problems


OEM rebuilt trans, current-spec trans pump and torque converter (euro TC), full torque Eco, non-F37 TCM, 245/75-16 on forged alloys... not a touch of shudder.. or any issues that I can think of.

Most worth while mods were the lift, skids, GDE tune, and good rubber.

BEST mod, hands down, was swapping a set of seats from an '03 Limited onto my manual tracks... those stock CRD seats were worthless for more than 3hr of seat time.

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-Rich
It must be air in the fuel!

Sure don't fix it if it ain't broke. On the other hand, "Hope is not a strategy"

Trying to make your ride more reliable is a worthy goal. Nothing sucks more than to have an issue when your far from home.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

Trying to make your vehicle more reliable is a worthy goal, agreed, but the fear that has been puked, eaten, and puked again, by the members of this forum is second to only that found in the Land Rover world.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=78435
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=78328



You don't need a GDE Tune to kill the EGR, simply doing the "ORM" or installing an SEGR will do the trick.

You don't need a Suncoast TC, even if you go offroad. IF your TC is shuttering in 5th lock-up you may want to look into a new one, but the shudder is caused when the TC "slips" in lockup, which will not be seen at trail speeds anyway. I got my GDE Full-TQ eco with the anticipation of killing my old-spec TC that was shuddering with my non-F37 TCM. Lasted 3yrs like that, and only my negligence killed the trans... not dragging a loaded truck/trailer offroad for weeks at a time with a shudder-prone TC and tune.

Replace the TC with the Euro (now current spec), and the current primary pump while you are in there. Don't waste your money on anything greater unless you are overly fearful or plan on power adders beyond the Eco Tune level (and maybe the hot tune as well, I didn't need the extra power so I kept it out of my build). While you are at it, avoid the shift kits and other gimmicks made for the trans. Our little motors will NOT kill the transmission without the driver/maintainer being a total idiot (see my threads for evidence of said idiot). An external trans cooler may be a good idea if pulling weight up grades.



Lift pump is used here as a bandaid to coverup a fuel drain-back issue, typically caused by a fuel leak in the system before the fuel head. The air-in-fuel that seems to be everyone's answer for any issue with the truck comes from somewhere. Fix the leak, and all is better. That being said, the lift pump does feed the CP3 with positive pressure fuel. This may, or may not, extend the life of the CP3, ymmv.

Second generation fuel head is needed, and should have been done if the PO followed the TSBs on the truck. Will the truck magically burst into flames if the conversion is not done... highly unlikely. If the head is not leaking, I would put it on the list of to-do's, and keep an eye for fuel at the plug heads. If the OP lives in a cold climate... the fuel heater is NEEDED.

Battery... upgrade as needed.

Blower motor resistor?!?! Really? Again, upgrade as needed.

Don't beat the snot out of the truck/motor, maintain properly, and keep an eye/ear on anything that doesn't "feel right", and you will be fine. LOST is a GREAT place to get information and knowledge when things go wrong, but other forums have great conversations that are not so fear based.

PS. I hear the sky falling, do you think it's air in the fuel or bad rockers?

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-Rich
It must be air in the fuel!

Rich, there are opinions and opinions. I always like replacing a part with a better one. Definitely Suncoast is better than euro, and for few hundred bucks, I'll personally take the best not the cheapest. Do you really need a lift pump? My answer is no, but is definitely better to have one. No hassle priming by hand, definitely peace of mind with air in fuel, it's not a bandaid, it's a convenience that you may not like/need but others do. Regarding gde, this is an elegant way to disable the egr. No tools, no block off plate. It also ensures a cleaner and more efficient burn. You were right though wit your statement since I only referred to egr and no other benefits. Regarding truck burning to flames, there are quite a bit of burned crds on auctions, I saw couple with my own eyes due to old fuel head and ignorant owners. There was either a recall, either most of blower resistors were replaced during warranty. Again, some people like being proactive and have spare parts on their garage shelve. You seem to be the "don't fix it till it breaks" person, nothing wrong with that, it's your choice, others, myself included, are more proactive with preventing maintenance and fix it even if it ain't broke, lol, but I will always have a more reliable vehicle, even if it costs me more, but ultimately it's a choice I make and I'm happy with results.

At the end, every educated reader has the choice to follow what he wants and filter the forum nonsense.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Can't tell ya'll how much I appreciate all the input. Especially you Rich I realize some info can be opinionated but I think I can sort through which would be the most important based on my use.

I put a extra emphasis on reliability due to very remote locations I frequent. Not that doing all the right things will exempt me from a breakdown but at least will address the weak points.

This is a "big" purchase for me as I don't buy a vehicle and trade it in in a few years for something bigger / better / faster. As long as the "bones" are good, I can deal with the normal upgrades that are necessary.

The one thing I didn't mention is that I will also do what I can to get more articulation. Probably an OME lift (2"?) / quality shocks / springs. What about sway bar disconnects?

Thanks again for your VALUABLE info!!!

Note: I realize that much of the info you provide could be found on various threads but scouring the search engine is so time consuming having to filter through so many posts.

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Marty

'05 CRD, GDE tune(s), JBA stuff, OME, Weeks Stage I & II, "Provent"(custom) +++

I am running the OME HD kit on the truck, with no added bits. They call for 1.5" over stock, but my springs were so badly sagged (common with the CRD) that I ended up with just shy of 4.5" after the swap was done. Front swaybar is a touch thick, but sans removal (making the truck downright scary to drive on twisty paved roads) you are stuck. Rear is easy enough to pull, but I had NO issue stuffing the rear tire to the factory stops with the bar still connected. On my list of to-do's is retrofitting the electronic actuator from a JKU-R to disco the front bar without end-links. The franken lift is a touch taller, and Jeepin by Al has some very nice coil overs available as well. I work part time for, and am friends with Jeremy at ExpeditionOps, who is now operating out of the Telluride area... so I got a discount on my lift. I have the highest rated front springs, and with a RockLizard front bumper and 10k winch, they are still a touch on the heavy side. I had planned on a secondary battery at first, but am running solar... so it wasn't as needed. Rear springs are the only HD available, and they were showing a bit of sag when the rear of the truck was loaded and the trailer's tongue had two filled jerry cans on it. We will see how it goes with Rocklizard rear bumper. This was with my 27gal water bladder and ice-chest loaded in the truck.

Skids are nice, I am running the ASFIR, because they are infinitely lighter than steel, and I don't do anything that requires such HD stuff. I am not a rock crawler... simply doing the overland stuff. One thing I don't like is the trans/tcase skid is made so that I can't run an over-sized oil filter (napa gold 1515), just the stock Napa Gold 1516, and it makes a hell of a mess pulling the filter off. I have resorted to using a plastic bag over the filter when removing it for oil changes. Next step is an AMSOIL bypass filter setup in a remote location. I now have two dings in my skids, one on the front from smacking a 1.5 foot thick chunk of ice during a frozen river crossing, the other was bouncing off a rock I didn't notice in time. Both held up and the damage isn't easy to see. The rear ASFIR tank skid is NOT compatible with the stock trailer hitch, thankfully that will no longer be a worry with the RL rear bumper.

If you are running alone, you will have no issue with space in the truck. I have removed the 1/3 side (left) of the rear seat and am building a mount for the fridge. I am also building a rack that opens the floor between the front seats and load deck to allow a more permanent location for the water bladder. This will leave more room in the cargo space for our food and kitchen bits, with clothing and other soft goods mounting to the All-J cargo shelf.

I guess my mod list may help?

V6 air box
Samco turbo lines
BMW air/oil separator
HD fan clutch/12-bladed V6 nylon fan
Weeks101's ACV/EGR delete kit
GDE Full-torque Eco tune
non-F37 TCM
serviceable Dana u-joints
euro TC
new-spec trans pump (both TC and pump came in Mopar Reman trans... don't ask)
2nd Gen fuel head w/OEM fuel filter (changed to CAT filter setup, and changed back)
Airtek in-tank lift pump (only there because I had some money to spend and was bored... not "needed" per say)
Added EDFC
'02 Limited leather seats with heat on stock manual racks
DieHard P2 battery
AC in Defrost delete and fan speed mod (Off - 1 - 2 - 4)
OME HD lift with LT rear shocks
Alcoa forged alloys from a TJ "Tomb Raider Edition" 16x8 5" bs
Hankook Dynapro ATM 245/75-16 P-rated
Dynomax cat-back (not a big fan, would have just straight piped it if my exhaust wasn't bad)
ASFIR front and trans/tcase skids (fuel skid to come with new rear bumper)
Rocklizard convertible winch bumper
Engo 10k with 125' Viking rope/safety thimble w/Superwinch contacter box (Winch is "quick removal" via 4-bolts between the bumper and mounting plate, a 3-prong plug to the contactor and a 2-terminal Anderson plug.)
Winch is actuated by an OEM sunroof switch ("close" is winch out, "open" is winch in, "vent" button is wired to a solid state latching relay that opens and closes a HD 500amp solenoid between the battery and Anderson plug)
Yaesu FT7900-R, through a Comet spring base dual-band antenna off the right front fender
Engel MT40 fridge
Plastimo 100l water bladder w/simple hose and ball-check valve
Lifetime subscription to Sirus Premium <-- BEST MOD EVER!
Weathertech front, rear, and cargo area floor liners
Weathertech window vent cover thingies
3800k HID in factory fog lights

Soon to have;
Rocklizard sliders
Rocklizard dual swinger rear bumper
Finally install my ASFIR tank skid
flat/full length roof rack
40" single row Cree LED light bar (flood/spot combo) wired through the factory lightbar switch
JY special trans cooler from a mid-model Explorer (love these little things
..and some other crap I can't think of now

They are a fantastic truck, but sometimes I wish I had an 05 Taco Quad Cab... that is until I am churning 27mpg hauling a full load of gear and the trailer

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-Rich
It must be air in the fuel!

Thanks again for all the input. Made my decision so much easier.

I just bought the '05 Libby!! 89K miles, but has a new (long block) motor 20K miles ago. Drove it 250 miles home. Not quite as comfy as my Grand Cherokee Overland but not bad at all. I was impressed with the power going up several long and steep high altitude grades.

Now the fun begins... on 2 levels: off-roading and upgrades.

Thanks again!!

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Marty

'05 CRD, GDE tune(s), JBA stuff, OME, Weeks Stage I & II, "Provent"(custom) +++

Rich, you mentioned: You don't need a GDE Tune to kill the EGR, simply doing the "ORM" or installing an SEGR will do the trick.

Being a newbie to the CRD world, could you please elaborate a bit more on the procedure?

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Marty

'05 CRD, GDE tune(s), JBA stuff, OME, Weeks Stage I & II, "Provent"(custom) +++

FYI - NOOB thread is a good place to start - includes links and notes

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=604519#p604519

ORM is in there somewhere

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

Thanks! I'll get the hang of it in a few weeks....

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Marty

'05 CRD, GDE tune(s), JBA stuff, OME, Weeks Stage I & II, "Provent"(custom) +++

ORM is just unplugging the MAF (on the tube coming out of your airbox to the turbo. This will place the truck into closed loop, forcing the EGR closed at all times. This will kick up a CEL, so I would pull the codes every week or so to make sure something isn't lurking in the background. SEGR is a box that you can make yourself, or find someone to make for you, that fools the ECU into thinking the EGR is working. (Simulated EGR).

But yeah, read the newbie guide.

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-Rich
It must be air in the fuel!

ORM is not nearly as effective as once thought. SEGR eliminates turbo overspeed protection (critical) and does not provide the much more complete combustion of a GDE
tune. Check my sig. I spent $800 having SEGR built and installed before GDE came along. Now, it is DISABLED.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

What I'd do is to get the gde tune, not only for egr, but for the performance and better fuel burn, as doc stated. If you really want to make sure your egr won't ever work, get the kit from weeks101 or make your own block off plate. Regarding turbo overspeed protection, I'm not too sure how a block off plate would negatively affect it, I'd guess if you won't hammer it then suddenly lift your foot from acceleration, you'll be fine. If you are concerned about this aspect, just get the gde tune.

Gde tune is one of the best things ever made for this engine. I haven't heard anybody being not pleased with it. Plus, they offer money back guarantee for 30 days I believe. Weeks101's kit physically blocks off the egr (you still need gde tune or a way to electronically disable the egr, otherwise you get a cel) but it will remove the flow control valve (which is there to work in conjunction with egr by cutting the amount of air to allow egr suction). This kit also allows easier glow plug replacement due to more space and easier removal compared to stock intake elbow.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

For the simple fact that misery loves company...

Today's project.



just need to run a bit of wiring now.

_________________
-Rich
It must be air in the fuel!