First off, sorry if I am posting this question in the wrong section.

I am trying to find out if the dash harness and/or body harness from a 2006 Jeep KJ with a 3.7L V6 are compatible with the 2005 2.8L CRD engine harness.
Reason I ask is I am about to swap drivetrains in my 2005 Jeep KJ and if the body harness and/or dash harness are the same between the gas and diesel models it would be a lot less work for me.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Mine is an export but there are differences (wires missing) in the body loom on my CRD compared to a 3.7, found out when wiring in my lift pump

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Steve Wright

http://www.offroading.net
2002 4.7 v8 WG, +3" IRO short arm lift, daily drive
1999 4litre WG, +4.5" IRO long arm lift
2007 export KJ Cherokee 2.8 Ltd, Family wagon
Previous- 8 XJ's, an MJ, a WJ, a TJ & 2 KJ's

What do you have at present...a 2005 KJ CRD with auto transmission?

What drivetrain do you have at the moment and what do you intend putting in?

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

I have a 2005 Jeep KJ 2.8L CRD with an automatic. The 2.8L runs but after dumping just over $3000 into it, it runs almost as bad as before having the work done.
Yes, I actually caved in and took it to the dealer. (long story)
Basically I am done with the CRD for the time being and just purchased a complete 2006 Jeep KJ with the 3.7L V6 and automatic that was wrecked a few weeks ago.
I am planning on swapping the entire drivetrain from the '06 to the '05 as well as the engine harness, radiator, computers, fuel tank, and anything else that is different between the two.
Was hoping that the dash and body harness would be compatible and only require changing over some components. If so, the swap would go much faster.

Please don't hate me for ditching the 2.8L diesel. I love the CRD, just can't afford to throw more money at it right now.
It is proving to cost more per mile to operate the 2.8L (in repairs, not fuel) than the 12.7L 60-Series Detroit that I had in my 2003 Freightliner Columbia.
I do plan on keeping it all to maybe someday tear down, repair/rebuild and swap back into the '05.
Swapping to the 3.7L is the cheapest route for me since I bought the entire running/driving '06 KJ for half of what I have put into repairs on the '05 CRD in the past 3 months.
My time and labor doesn't cost a dime. Plus, I can part out the rest of the '06 to recoup some of the cost and maybe even keep some spare parts.

I did notice that there is a difference in the engine cradle/K-member between the '06 3.7L and the '05 CRD. Too bad the different engine mounts aren't a bolt on part instead of being welded onto the cradle. I was going to just use the cradle from the '06 until I notice that the lower control arm mount for the right front is bent. I went to the local U-pull today and picked one up for $40. Only took an hour to remove it. It did come from a 2002 Jeep Liberty KJ but I compared it to the '06 and it appears to be identical except for the alignment bolts for the lower control arms which wont be an issue. Also noticed that the 2002 uses an extra mounting bolt that apparently Jeep felt wasn't needed for the later years. May drill the hole and install that additional bolt on the 2005.

Still trying to figure out if any of the 2005 CRD wiring will be able to stay in place for the 2006 3.7L swap. Does look like some changes to the ABS so I may end up swapping brakes and all. Hoping to get the swap completed in a month if the weather holds up.

Between dash and tail lights is the same, except fuel pump wiring.

Dash may be the same, but no guarantee. You need to swap the entire engine bay harness.

05 was the slower DRBsystem while the 06 uses the newer CAN witech computer system. Because of this I would think there would be a big difference in wiring. You'll have to compare closely.

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Resurrected 2005 Liberty Sport CRD
Canadian DRL mod

CRD Motor/Timing Pics
http://www.flickr.com/photos/68442076@N02/sets/72157629389449367/

Here is a video of how the 2.8L CRD currently sounds. They dealer actually asked me to bring it back then said again, they don't hear anything wrong…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2uTSrmS0AhI

Sounds like crap, has no power, smokes worse than ever, and makes a sound like an old air compressor (sounds like compression coming back out the intake)

Pull the drive side CAC hose off at the FCV (flow control valve) end down on engine, you may have to pull it all the way out from both ends; crank up at idle; grab a piece of paper like a $1 bill TIGHT; hold just in front of the FCV opening; may need to slightly rev engine; if paper solidly pulls toward FCV intake your rockers may be good but if it flutters your rockers are shot (blow back thru intake). I'm guessing the engine is out of time.

Any dealer who "don't hear anything wrong" is INCOMPETENT at best.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

was the timing belt or water pump worked on recently?

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-Rich
It must be air in the fuel!

If timing was done recently, I imagine the ip is out of sync

Entire story to date:
The engine was overdue for a timing belt and the CRD suddenly began running rough while left idling for a few minutes. Assumed jumped timing as the culprit.
Spent the money on all the timing tools and the timing belt/water pump kit. When I went to insert the timing pins, they all lined up. Not jumped timing? I did go ahead and replace the timing belt and water pump. Restarted engine to make sure I didn't mess anything up and it ran exactly the same as was expected.
Next was to start diagnosing the problem but with winter approaching and the wife still rolling in the '91 Mazda MX-5 (Miata/MX-5 is a wrecked parts car that we never intended to drive) we decided to take the Jeep to the dealer in October to see if they could diagnose the issue and repair it faster.
They first assumed jumped timing and wanted to confirm all timing marks lined up. Right before they began tearing the front of the engine apart I told them that would do no good since it doesn't have timing marks but uses pins instead. They asked to borrow my tools. Should have taken it home right then.
They confirmed that it was not jumped timing but knowing that I did go through with changing the belt and all, I am sure they thought it had jumped timing and that I just lined it all back up before bringing it to them.
They called corporate for advice and they suggested clean and replace the EGR. After that it still ran the same. They then replace a sensor but I don't know which one since it was not on the bill. After no change, corporate suggested to tear the top end down. They did just that and found a sheared off lifter. The rollers on a few rockers were also collapsed and the cams were worn as if some rockers had been collapsed for a while.
They had changed the oil while waiting for the EGR and didn't know at that time to look for the missing part of the lifter. After replacing the cams, rockers, lifters, EGR, and sensor, 3 months and $3042-USD later, the engine now sounds like what you hear in the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2uTSrmS0AhI
The dealer knew we said it was not running properly but said they don't hear anything wrong with it.
We also called corporate and told them it was not running properly after the dealer completed all the work they had suggested. Over a week later the dealer called saying they wanted the Jeep back in their shop to double check the timing. I didn't loan them the tools this time and was expecting them to call and ask for them again. They did not and a week later said they still don't hear anything wrong with it.
Before taking it back to their shop I did buy a recently wrecked 2006 KJ with the 3.7L V6 (nosed into a ditch during a recent snow storm) and figured that if the CRD gets fixed I would just part out the '06 but if the CRD was not able to be repaired cheaply then the '06 would give up it's guts for the '05 CRD and still part out the rest.

I appreciate all the suggestions of what to check next and will do just that as soon as possible.
Just wanted to include all info on the issues with this CRD.

Thanks.

Thoughts for what they are worth:
1. my comment on the dealer hearing remains the same
2. one does not clean and replace the EGR; it's one or the other not both. Dealers typically like to replace the EGR when they don't know what else to do although the EGR can be removed/cleaned/reinstalled.
3. when you say pins were used does that mean all 3 (2 cam and 1 flywheel)? The 3 pins are used to set "mechanical" timing between the cams and the crank/flywheel as opposed to ignition timing. If just the cam pins were used, especially on an engine that was not running right, then it's possible/probably that the crank/flywheel was not in time with the cams. Even if the crank/flywheel pin was used it's critical to be sure that when it goes in a) the crank bolts are at 12/3/6/9 o'clock; b) the dimple is at 3 o'clock; and c) the pin is going into a small hole (when using a 6mm allen key for the crank/flywheel pin it's a good idea to tap around the hole of the flywheel) in the flywheel not one of the larger cut outs.
4. crushed lifters/rockers means it lost time so if it was not put back in time before starting back up again I suspect the new rockers would just get crushed.
5. I worry about the missing lifter piece but don't off hand know if it could get inside a cylinder from up top. If that's possible one can look inside with a small bore scope (geordi has one) thru the injector holes. I'll avoid commenting on any dealer who sees a broken internal part and fails to look for the missing piece.

I'd suggest you PM geordi who is in SC just north of Savannah for his opinion.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

The EGR valve was replaced and the other EGR components supposedly cleaned.
I did keep the old EGR valve.


All three pins lined up for me and I did use the smooth end of a 3/16 drill bit to feel around and confirm that it was the correct place in the flywheel. (no, I didn't drill a new hole…)
Not sure what the dealer did or if they turned the crank at all while it was apart. This is why I would rather work on my own vehicles but due to being in a hurry at the time I thought for sure the dealer would be faster than I would. I was very wrong.

They did say they looked into each cylinder with a borescope through the injector holes to look for any visible damage but I didn't get to see them do it.

Okay...so I am finally getting everything together for the drivetrain swap. When I first got the wrecked 2006 donor KJ, I knew I needed to swap the engine cradle over to the 2005. After removing all the damaged parts from the '06, installing a new radiator, and patching it up to be able to make a few test drives I noticed that the engine cradle was bent slightly upward on the right front and the lower control arm mount was bent.
I went the local U-pull salvage yard and grabbed a perfect engine cradle from a 2002 model also with the 3.7L V6. Paid $40 for the part.
Its been sitting here ready to use on the 2006/2005 for a few months but I am still trying to find out info on small difference between the 2002 engine cradle and the damaged '06 cradle. Though they look identical the 2006 is held in place with only four bolts while the 2002 was held in with six. The four bolt holes on the '06 are in the same place as four of the holes on the '02 cradle but the '02 uses two additional bolts from the side.
Any idea why the two side bolts were no longer used on the later KJ's? Was the later cradle made stronger and didn't need the other two bolts? Or maybe the other two bolts were creating issues or something? I just want to figure this out before I install this 2002 engine cradle into the 2005 CRD.

Also, Thinking that the CRD front coils would be too stiff for the 3.7L and since the right front coil on the 2006 may be damaged I went ahead and grabbed the front and rear coils from the 2002 that I got the engine cradle from. After checking the front coils I noticed another difference. The 2002 front coils have 10 coils and the 2006 has just 9. The rears seem to be the same. This is getting really confusing. Thinking now I should have waited for a 2006 cradle and springs. I assumed that the engine cradle and coil springs from any 3.7L KJ would be fine for use with the 2006 parts.

Any info on these differences would be greatly appreciated.

I do know that early 2002 KJs sat a bit higher up from the ground. Then Chrysler had to lower the suspension by about 3/4 inch when the KJ failed the Moose/Deer swerve test. Maybe the springs you got are from an early 2002 KJ?

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

Those 2 extra bolts are used to center the cradle,they deleted them after '02.

As far as the coils if they came off a KJ built before april 12th '02 they are(well after sag not so much) 3/4" taller.They reduced the height after april 12th due to a freak occurance by road&track magazine flipped a 2wd KJ which could not be reproduced but they lowered the KJ's anyway(the real story,didn't fail any test).

Thanks for the info.
The coils were removed from a 2002 KJ, build date 09/2001

Okay, since they were just alignment bolts for centering the cradle then I'm guessing they wouldn't need to make any structural changes to the cradle after deleting the bolts.
That makes me feel better about using it in this '05 CRD/'06 3.7L drivetrain swap.

They did come from an '02 built 09/2001.
I will need to use the full set then and not just the front set.

Thanks.

Already seeing differences in the body wiring without even tearing into the project that far. Even for simple things like the interior lights.
The 2005 has a light for the rear cargo area and the 2006 does not. If I can't easily make the rear interior light work with the 2006 harness and the rest of the interior lights with their individual switches then it looks like I will either end up changing the headliner out to delete the light or having to hack things up a little. Wonder why they eliminated the rear interior light for '06? (or was the rear cargo area dome light an option?)
I am tempted to get a body harness for an '05 if I can find one cheap enough. With my luck even that wont be compatible with the 2006 engine or dash components.

Never mind figuring out the differences between the 3.7L gas and 2.8L diesel harnesses. At this point it would be nice just to find a list of differences between the 2005 and 2006 gas models (3.7L V6) just to figure out where I can expect issues.