Better Rear bumpstops?

JeepNCrowd · **Posted:** Mon Mar 31, 2014 2:51 pm

I think I'm going to be ordering 16x7 Black D window Steelies with 4.5" backspace. I have the JBA 4" bumpstops, but they either aren't tall enough or they are to pointy (my factory upper bumpstops seem to be splitting). At full stuff I'm rubbing my inner wheel well. If I get these new wheels I'm afraid it will push the tire out enough to rub against the fender and pop it off. What would y'all suggest I do to amen this? I've considered replacing the lower bumpstops with the hockey puck mod. Good idea? Thoughts?

lfhoward · **Posted:** Mon Mar 31, 2014 3:08 pm

I think the hockey pucks would work, especially since your spring perch is already drilled for the JBA bumpstops. The pucks would give your upper bumpstops a wider, flatter surface to make contact with, and you could stack them to get the height you need.

My JBA bumpstops are trimmed so they aren't full height, and so are a bit wider at the top. This seems to have worked so far, but I don't have aftermarket wheels.

JeepNCrowd · **Posted:** Mon Mar 31, 2014 3:13 pm

I wonder if trimming it and buying new factory upper bump stops would help instead. I just don't know if it's rubbing because they aren't long enough or because the top ones are splitting or both.

lfhoward · **Posted:** Mon Mar 31, 2014 3:22 pm

Tommudd helped me install the JBA bumpstops and I think he cut them down to the first notch/step. In any event, that created a flatter surface instead of the volcano-like cone on the top of the uncut JBA bumpstop. At one point Diggerfreek told me he had to cut his JBA bumpstops down because they were too pointy and destroying his upper stock bumpstops. It sounds like yours might be doing the same.

JeepNCrowd · **Posted:** Mon Mar 31, 2014 3:24 pm

Mmaybe I'll try that first then. Might me easier.

DirtyKK · **Posted:** Mon Mar 31, 2014 6:19 pm

I used Zone 3" bump stops on my JBA 4". I used a cairage bolt to mount them to prevent the factory bump stop from being tore up by a hex head bolt. They're the perfect size and te best set up I've seen.

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Mar 31, 2014 6:37 pm

Hockey pucks work great , wider area, strong, don't wear out, etc.. Four of the ones I'm running on mine have been in there for the last 7 years, still look the same

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 31, 2014 6:58 pm

3" round solid HDPE stock,cut to desired length,use 1"-1.25" Frostner bit to drill big hole down the center leaving 1" un-drilled,then use a drill bit the size of the bolt your going to use to bolt it down the rest of the way(make sure you use a washer on the bolt).Never corrodes, strong as hell,and pretty cheap.

JeepNCrowd · **Posted:** Mon Mar 31, 2014 9:10 pm

Tom I already have the hockey pucks. How many did you use? 2 or 3 per side?

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Mar 31, 2014 9:22 pm

JeepN
I'm using 2 and a half :roll:

per side, just the right amount for full flex yet keeps me from rubbing too bad

At The Helm · **Posted:** Tue Apr 01, 2014 12:58 am

Here's a visual of what tjkj2002 is talking about. I think I used a 1.25" forstner bit. That solid plastic stuff he's talking about would be a cleaner install I wonder where you can get it.

mawlkrawler · **Posted:** Thu May 01, 2014 10:05 am

Here are a few pictures of the ones I just made for my new lift. Cost me about $10 total including the bit. Usually Forster bits are extremely expensive but I happened to find one at Lowes on clearance.

Tools:
Drill
1 1/8 Forster bit

Materials:
(3) black rubber hockey pucks
(2) 4" 5/16 carriage bolts
(4) 5/16 washers (use the wider ones if you can find them)
(2) split lock washers
(2) 5/16 nuts

Tip: Freeze the hockey pucks to make drilling easier/cleaner, especially when using the Forster bit.

Here's a pic of the bit

Sent from my iPhone

JeepNCrowd · **Posted:** Thu May 01, 2014 10:28 am

thanks. Hoepfully after my run this weekend I'll get to work on it. Y'all descriptions are very helpful.

Better Rear bumpstops?

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