DIY ECU Flash

synthetic-oil · **Joined:** Tue Sep 24, 2013 8:03 pm **Posts:** 142

Squeeto wrote:

synthetic-oil wrote:

My ELM327 OBDII Bluetooth adapter seems to have died. I have my MPPS V13.02 USB cable. What scan software can I use that doesn't coast an arm and leg?

Maybe it is cheaper to buy a new OBDII adapter that comes with software. The MPPS cable is proprietary and OBDII software may not know how to talk to this device.

Yea I pretty much knew that. I was just hoping. I got the cable so when I get all the 100K maintenance done I could load one of Yeti's flashes. After spending the money on the maintenance I can't afford to upgrade my snap-on scanner

Yeti · **Posted:** Wed Apr 09, 2014 5:43 pm

disjaukifa wrote:

Nick's 808 ECU/FCV delete + (some) HP tune (vers 1.01) Results:

Miles: 411
Gallons: 18.878
MPG: 21.8

I'm now on Yeti's tune again but version 1.02 however this current tank won't be accurate because I've been pulling a trailer this tank.

-Grant

let me know if you want some modify on this file , if I can , I do it ,or if you prefer the 1.01 and want a mod well ask

disjaukifa · **Posted:** Thu Apr 10, 2014 9:42 am

Yeti wrote:

disjaukifa wrote:

Nick's 808 ECU/FCV delete + (some) HP tune (vers 1.01) Results:

Miles: 411
Gallons: 18.878
MPG: 21.8

I'm now on Yeti's tune again but version 1.02 however this current tank won't be accurate because I've been pulling a trailer this tank.

-Grant

let me know if you want some modify on this file , if I can , I do it ,or if you prefer the 1.01 and want a mod well ask

Yeti's 808 ECU/FCV delete + Mild tune (vers 1.02) - 450Nm

First off I want to say if you have a stock 06 CRD Liberty I recommend this tune! I pulled trailer for about 120 miles on this tank and then I used my Liberty to move my two CJ-5 around on my property as well and here is what I got.

Miles: 453.4
Gallons: 19.814
MPG: 22.9

This is a fantastic tune, especially when you account for all the hauling I was doing with it as well, and my trailer is not small, its 19 feet long with a double axle.

Yeti can you modify Yeti's 808 ECU/FCV delete + Mild tune (vers 1.02) - 450Nm to go down to 400Nm/300ft-lb of torque? I still encountered some torque converter shutter but it was rare. Looking at the Eco Tune from GDE his original tune limits it to 270ft lb or 366Nm but I don't think we need to limit it that much.

I have to say my favorite thing about this tune is the boost at low RPM, you just don't have to rev the CRD to get it going. Fantastic tune!

-Grant

Yeti · **Posted:** Thu Apr 10, 2014 5:06 pm

Grant , you have PM

disjaukifa · **Posted:** Thu Apr 10, 2014 8:51 pm

Yeti wrote:

Grant , you have PM

This is really kind of funny. I drove almost all highway today. I get home and I have a PM about a custom tune for my Liberty to go try out. I just flashed my ECU and went to fill up my tank again so I could record accurate results for everyone and I got my best diesel mileage every.

Yeti's 808 ECU/FCV delete + Mild tune (vers 1.02) - 450Nm tank results
Miles: 98.2
Gallons: 3.041
MPG: 32.3 mpg
Highway/City: 90%/10%

Yeti I'm on the eco tune you sent me and I will be driving pretty far tomorrow, but I won't need to fill up until next week, probably Tuesday or Wednesday, I will post the results of the eco tune when I fill up. I can already tell its not as torquey as your other tunes, but I noticed the engine is quieter, I haven't connected my ELM327 to it and checked to see what its doing in my Torque app yet though.

Hey guys, if you have a 2006 CRD, I would be watching Yeti's 808 tunes, they are fantastic!

-Grant

Yeti · **Posted:** Fri Apr 11, 2014 5:25 am

Hi Grant , thanks for feedback , let me know how dose it work the tune I send you , and if you like it

pwrwagn · **Joined:** Mon Jul 22, 2013 2:40 am **Posts:** 192

You guys who have modified these things... what, exactly, does the engine "need"?

Emission controls turn these things into pigs, because they screw with the timing very badly, and the F37 flash really hurts the engine torque.

For optimal fuel economy (and usually, that runs pretty darn good, too), what is needed? Back in my days of working on injection systems, I found that most had a little bit too much advance just off idle, but then the advance curves were generally too far retarded, especially for WOT and low speed, light load. The retarded timing was always to reduce peak combustion temperatures to prevent transient NOx production. I saw some engines that wanted very small advance curves, and MORE at the low end than they had, but less at higher throttle and high rpm than they were given - and this was to reduce smoke, not improve NOx emissions.

So, how, precisely, have they been detuned?

Eskymo · **Joined:** Fri Aug 17, 2012 9:15 am **Posts:** 31

I think it depends on how far you want to go... Yeti tweaks just a few parameters and gets fantastic results, GDE and other commercial tuners seem to tweak about 30-odd maps to get their results. The ones that are apparent: Rail pressure, Injection, Inj at part-throttle, Fuel during accel, Turbo pressure, Overboost, Torque limiters, Rail pressure limiter. So, looks like it can start simple and get verrrry complicated!

Yeti · **Posted:** Sat Apr 12, 2014 6:32 am

the really secret , is EGR and FCV disabled FIRST , it's a MUST , a little bit of torque from low rpm about an 8% , I'll prefer mix the rail pressure and time of open injector for give fuel , rail pressure increase the fuel temp and help for a best combustion , the time of open injector give the rest of fuel needed , after , you must give air , increasing turbo pressure from low load for total combustion and efficency and overboost time , this help the engine to run with low load , decreasing the effort to move the kj , other increasing at high rpm and load , are doing for make progressive engine and for performance , much fuel more power , and do not forget the map of torque requested by the gas pedal for better response , this help a little bit , more quickly you arrive at the cruise speed less fuel you request ,in true word, more fuel but in less time ,this is the formula I use .......but remember it's not a LAW , and if you compare some tune I have made , you can understand the logic of ECU and you can start to study and make your own for personal needs

hope this help

Yeti · **Posted:** Sat Apr 12, 2014 6:46 am

Guys can some one find an 808 original ? and a 2500 crd original ?

thanks in advance

disjaukifa · **Posted:** Sat Apr 12, 2014 7:54 am

Yeti wrote:

Guys can some one find an 808 original ? and a 2500 crd original ?

thanks in advance

I have my ECUs original 808 if that would help!

Yeti · **Posted:** Sat Apr 12, 2014 8:17 am

Thanks , I have send you a PM with my email

pwrwagn · **Joined:** Mon Jul 22, 2013 2:40 am **Posts:** 192

Yeti wrote:

the really secret , is EGR and FCV disabled FIRST , it's a MUST , a little bit of torque from low rpm about an 8% , I'll prefer mix the rail pressure and time of open injector for give fuel , rail pressure increase the fuel temp and help for a best combustion , the time of open injector give the rest of fuel needed , after , you must give air , increasing turbo pressure from low load for total combustion and efficency and overboost time , this help the engine to run with low load , decreasing the effort to move the kj , other increasing at high rpm and load , are doing for make progressive engine and for performance , much fuel more power , and do not forget the map of torque requested by the gas pedal for better response , this help a little bit , more quickly you arrive at the cruise speed less fuel you request ,in true word, more fuel but in less time ,this is the formula I use .......but remember it's not a LAW , and if you compare some tune I have made , you can understand the logic of ECU and you can start to study and make your own for personal needs

hope this help

I ordered a cable from Ebay yesterday. Hope it arrives soon.

When it does, does someone have a good explanation of everything in this thread? A sort of walk-through? And explanation of the terms being used? I'd love to experiment a bit ( I've played with timing / pressure maps before in a programmable ECU), and I know quite a bit about diesel engine and injection theory, as I used to be a factory injection tech and studied both engines and theory to help diagnose strange problems. I'm just not familiar with this engine.

Sadly, I'm not an engineer. I'm a "TLAR" (that looks about right) type of experimenter.

lostFinn · **Posted:** Sat Apr 12, 2014 5:39 pm

Could these be EGR hysteresis maps in 809 file?

Yeti · **Posted:** Sun Apr 13, 2014 4:40 am

yes it is , let me know if you can put in hysteresis and where doing a cut

thanks

lostFinn · **Posted:** Sun Apr 13, 2014 3:17 pm

Ok, I have now made 809 file with EGR and FCV deleted. Or at least I hope so...

Have to test it tomorrow.

Yeti, I can send it to you if you would like to take a look?

Yeti · **Posted:** Sun Apr 13, 2014 3:43 pm

Yes I have send you my email in PM

Yeti · **Posted:** Sun Apr 13, 2014 4:55 pm

I have see , you have cut it at 2500 , your MAF map finish at 2600 ?
In mine finish at 3600 and for put it in Hysteresis I have cut it at 3400 let me know if you have some DTC , try to make a diagnosis and see if the MAF sign right value

lostFinn · **Posted:** Mon Apr 14, 2014 3:07 am

Yeti wrote:

I have see , you have cut it at 2500 , your MAF map finish at 2600 ?

Yes I thought of that too and decided 2500 because EGR duty cycle map ends at 2500. However I changed it in my hysteresis maps back to 2600 and uploaded it to the Jeep. After short test drive there were no error codes and Jeep seemed to perform fine at every rpm.

Yesterday I checked MAF value at idle and it was 11,5 g/s, after similar drive today it was around 19 g/s. So it seems that EGR is shut now...

Have to do some more testing..

Yeti · **Posted:** Mon Apr 14, 2014 9:31 am

lostFinn wrote:

Yeti wrote:

I have see , you have cut it at 2500 , your MAF map finish at 2600 ?

Yes I thought of that too and decided 2500 because EGR duty cycle map ends at 2500. However I changed it in my hysteresis maps back to 2600 and uploaded it to the Jeep. After short test drive there were no error codes and Jeep seemed to perform fine at every rpm.

Yesterday I checked MAF value at idle and it was 11,5 g/s, after similar drive today it was around 19 g/s. So it seems that EGR is shut now...

Have to do some more testing..

great job lostFinn , now we wait your progress and response

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