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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 10:09 am 
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Squeeto wrote:
disjaukifa wrote:
Hey guys I just wanted to give an update I've been driving Yeti's eco tune for about 70 miles so far after I flashed it correctly to my ECU and it has been fantastic good torque, good amount of boost and so far looks like my diesel mileage is going to be fantastic! I will post results as soon as I fill up my tank and once we are satisfied with it I'll send it to you Squeeto!

-Grant

Keep us posted on any torque converter shutter.


I'm pleased to report with 100 miles on the ECO Tune I haven't noticed any torque shutter yet! However I want to test the entire tank of diesel before I make a final claim!

-Grant

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 10:21 am 
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lostFinn wrote:

I too did compare my original and Eskymo's original with ecm titanium's compare files function and it says files are identical. But this tune file I received seems weird. Its almost like the beginning is erased? Curve is flat with value 65535, while mine has all kinds of bumps in same area...




yes is what I say , there is a difference and seem to be Hardware read difference mode

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 10:52 am 
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lostFinn wrote:
A little report of 809 Yeti tune:

I copied modifications to my 809 EGR/FCV delete file and flashed it to the Jeep. It went fine and then to test drive. Very nice tune this is, there is clearly more power and a lot of torque. A little too much in fact to my poor torque converter. It started to shudder in 4th gear when it was locked and when pedal was about 1/2 way down. So I think torque has to be reduced when TQ is locked. What is the current torque limit at locked converter? There are so many torque limiter maps in the file that I'm not sure yet which is which. :)

Otherwise excellent tune... :D Thanks Yeti

After my driving checked that there were no fault codes in memory.


Hi lostFinn , go to the torque limiter 1 , is the engine Torque limiter , after you see.........like this image another Torque limiter , out of titanium drive and start where the green line is ,

Image


this is the lock-up limiter , now I do not remember .......sincerely .......... if in your I have touched it , if yes , select it and put it in original , ........but I do not think I have touched it , knowing tc problem , after there are a Torque limiter 7 , is the limiter on the gear ..............and I think here must be corrected for your kj ..........depending of the usury of your TC

another info can you remember me if your egr is cut at 2500 or 2600 ? thanks

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 12:04 pm 
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Yeti wrote:
lostFinn wrote:
A little report of 809 Yeti tune:

I copied modifications to my 809 EGR/FCV delete file and flashed it to the Jeep. It went fine and then to test drive. Very nice tune this is, there is clearly more power and a lot of torque. A little too much in fact to my poor torque converter. It started to shudder in 4th gear when it was locked and when pedal was about 1/2 way down. So I think torque has to be reduced when TQ is locked. What is the current torque limit at locked converter? There are so many torque limiter maps in the file that I'm not sure yet which is which. :)

Otherwise excellent tune... :D Thanks Yeti

After my driving checked that there were no fault codes in memory.


Hi lostFinn , go to the torque limiter 1 , is the engine Torque limiter , after you see.........like this image another Torque limiter , out of titanium drive and start where the green line is ,

Image


this is the lock-up limiter , now I do not remember .......sincerely .......... if in your I have touched it , if yes , select it and put it in original , ........but I do not think I have touched it , knowing tc problem , after there are a Torque limiter 7 , is the limiter on the ghear ..............and I think here must be corrected for your kj ..........depending of the usury of your TC

another info can you remember me if your egr is cut at 2500 or 2600 ? thanks


Yes I checked you have not touched the lock-up limiter. But I will reduce those gear torque limiters a bit and test. By the way, can you tell what map is starting at about 0E77D8? It has 5% increase over the original..

Actually my EGR is still cut at 2600, I haven't touched that part.

thanks again for help


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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 12:58 pm 
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It's a Smoke limiter , or IQ Injected quantity .......mg of fuel if I remember right , the early map is fuel / air .........more air........more fuel :wink: ......

good job lostFinn

you have do your EGR Hysteresis and is it a 10+

and now you can study the logic of ECU and make your own tune



really good start

Marco

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 2:11 pm 
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Yeti wrote:
It's a Smoke limiter , or IQ Injected quantity .......mg of fuel if I remember right , the early map is fuel / air .........more air........more fuel :wink: ......

good job lostFinn

you have do your EGR Hysteresis and is it a 10+

and now you can study the logic of ECU and make your own tune



really good start

Marco


Thanks :D

I wish we would have had this thread when the transmission was off from my Jeep. I would have thrown that torque converter to the bottom of the sea and got a better one! :-)r


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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 2:23 am 
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If you need to know something else , well ask , I think this can help other people who want study it

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 7:46 pm 
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Ok, so I got my MPPS cable at the beginning of the week... The laptop had broken hinges, so I fixed that, and then the driver would not install. I got a new hard drive and did a fresh install of win7, 64 bit, and the driver installed.

So, now I downloaded the stuff off the Jeep, and apparently, mine is -811 map. I have a 56044526CF ECU, and the F37 flash done.

I loaded this map in Titanium, and the first thing I noticed was a distinct lack of ability to control injection timing.

I noticed some of you talking about other maps, ones not visible in ECU Titanium. Is there an updated "driver" for ECU titanium? I find the info in WinOLS incomprehensible. Without a guide what data is what, I know better than to mess with it.

Still, this project isn't any good without adjusting the timing, because timing is the worst detune that federal emissions will get.

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 1:26 am 
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In Titanium , you find all necessary map , apart the egr ,the lock-up limiter and the somke limiter other map are not really necessary , the injection timing "open " injector time" is the first map you found and have 12 duty cycle , but the angle of injection start is delicate and if you do not know how to , is best if you do not touch , changing the angle in all range , involves in other modification , need to change rail pressure and many other parameter for compensate .

if you see I have touched a little bit at a high rpm for increase performance , but if your purpose is detune and trasforming the logic of ECU , you need a GDE tune or a Bosch Engineer


sorry Man

I can't help you in this adventure

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 8:52 am 
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Yeti wrote:
In Titanium , you find all necessary map , apart the egr ,the lock-up limiter and the somke limiter other map are not really necessary , the injection timing "open " injector time" is the first map you found and have 12 duty cycle , but the angle of injection start is delicate and if you do not know how to , is best if you do not touch , changing the angle in all range , involves in other modification , need to change rail pressure and many other parameter for compensate .

if you see I have touched a little bit at a high rpm for increase performance , but if your purpose is detune and trasforming the logic of ECU , you need a GDE tune or a Bosch Engineer


sorry Man

I can't help you in this adventure


I don't have such a map listed.

And yes, the start of injection is the most badly mangled part of the engine's tuning at present. In all my years as an injection specialist, I never saw an engine built after the 90's that did NOT have a terrible injection timing curve ( poor fuel economy, low power, etc).

I have fixed vehicles that would barely run (belch smoke, low power, horrible fuel economy, high EGT, hard starting ) by fixing factory timing discrepancies. It meant doing many verification of piston position, locating TDC and moving mis-located factory timing locking pin. 3 degrees transformed it completely.

Yes, it's sensitive, and yes, it is the single most important. If you do nothing other than properly tweak the timing map, you can gain 10 to 30% (sometimes more) fuel economy and 5-10% in power, without adding any fuel at all.


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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 12:42 pm 
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funny definition in English in Ecm Titanium , the map I'll intend is the first map that Ecm call "injection at part throttle " , but is the open Injector time , for changing the angle of injection you do modify "injection at part Throttle (map1) (BOOSTXRPM )(6)" that change post and pre injection , if you can do this we can make a complete tune

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 1:35 pm 
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Yeti wrote:
funny definition in English in Ecm Titanium , the map I'll intend is the first map that Ecm call "injection at part throttle " , but is the open Injector time , for changing the angle of injection you do modify "injection at part Throttle (map1) (BOOSTXRPM )(6)" that change post and pre injection , if you can do this we can make a complete tune


OK! I get the mangled translation in Titanium, I suspected as much. But, I don't know Italian, aside from "pizza" and "spaghetti" :) And that's what it was, by default.

Ok, so the very first map "injection at part throttle (12)" is the duration of injection - meaning the period of time between start of first injection and the end of the last? If so, what is the significance of maps 1 through 12?

If these are maps of start of injection timing for rpm and load, then are the 12 different ones for "hot", "cold", and stages in between? By looking at the 3d maps, and by correlating what I see from the EGR maps, there is a distinct advance that occurs simultaneously with EGR increase and rpm increase at very high throttle levels. This would be expected, as EGR actually slows down combustion rate. Which means that when removing EGR, you don't want more advance - possibly slightly less.

I looked over the the "injection at part Throttle (map1) (BOOSTXRPM )(6)"

If this, again, is timing being modified by boost and load, (+ and - values to modify the others above) they appear to be temperature correlated... sort of.

1 and 2 would appear to be "hot" and "with and without EGR". The modifications it makes to the timing would appear to be made to reduce NOx emissions, and very detrimental to fuel economy. There is a definite negative timing valley in the 1800 to 2800 range, at certain rpms especially at partial throttle - and it matches an area of low boost - meaning without boost, they were trying to reduce peak combustion temperatures. Map # 6 appears to be a "cold start and run" map, which explains why the engine hammers so harshly while cold. It has advance galore, at all speeds and pressures, to reduce blue smoke and misfire.

I have often wondered why the motor has such radical noise changes while driving, on and off the throttle, etc, and now I see - it has radical alterations in timing over smallish changes in load/speed, probably to prevent transient NOx production while the turbo spools up.

Has anyone significantly modified these maps? Not just overall change, but do some smoothing to remove the high rpm peaks and mid-speed and mid-load valley?

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 1:50 pm 
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Last question: What is "fuel during acceleration" mean? Is this actually the fuel quantity injected before the turbo spools (fuel with low or little boost)?

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 2:36 pm 
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OOOOOO .....glad to speak with someone that know more about me and to learn from , I need to learn more , and I'm happy to do this , the map you asked is simply the torque requested at the position pedal , increase this , increase the response of the gas pedal , for the question about the 12 map , I think....and not sure .......one map correspond at one time for open and close .....but I do not know if the injector open 3 or 5 time , and for what you say about the EGR , now I know why the different sound come with egr disabled and when is cold or hot , I need to know what map are correlated with EGR function , all 12 at low range ? or one in particular ?

I have see the negative timing valley in the 1800 to 2800 range, at certain rpms especially at partial throttle , but I haven't the necessary experience to touch it , I hope we can adjust the time of injection and the angle to decrease fuel consumption and pairing the advance with EGR Off , you think we can do it ?

Marco

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 3:39 pm 
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in mine 812 , I have see the map 6 have the max value .......if this value are high , for compensate the EGR ? and cold engine ? , what do you think on decreasing it ?

the 4° and 5 ° are the same and 1° 2° and 3° had an increased negative valley , you think is when engine are on operating temp ?

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 3:59 pm 
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Yeti wrote:
OOOOOO .....glad to speak with someone that know more about me and to learn from , I need to learn more , and I'm happy to do this , the map you asked is simply the torque requested at the position pedal , increase this , increase the response of the gas pedal , for the question about the 12 map , I think....and not sure .......one map correspond at one time for open and close .....but I do not know if the injector open 3 or 5 time , and for what you say about the EGR , now I know why the different sound come with egr disabled and when is cold or hot , I need to know what map are correlated with EGR function , all 12 at low range ? or one in particular ?

I have see the negative timing valley in the 1800 to 2800 range, at certain rpms especially at partial throttle , but I haven't the necessary experience to touch it , I hope we can adjust the time of injection and the angle to decrease fuel consumption and pairing the advance with EGR Off , you think we can do it ?

Marco


Well... How about this... Does anyone have a way to read the actual injection timing while the engine's running? I don't have anything that can. Chrysler has sort of hobbled these things by using the European computer and protocols for the engine, but everything else uses Chrysler's own network, at least for 2005, if I understand correctly.

By your comments, I take it that there's a torque reduction that happens when you put the rig in low range or 4wd?

Also, I thought someone said there's one for lockup condition. I don't need any reduction, because I have a Suncoast.

If we could figure out which map is in use under what conditions, I think it would be relatively easy to get a pretty good economy tune.

The theory behind common rail injection has these parameters:

1. Degrees before TDC to start of injection
2. Degrees of rotation "during which injection occurs"
3. Combustion speed (how long does it take for the fuel to burn and reach maximum power?)
4. How long it takes for the required amount of fuel to get through the injector.

To obtain maximum economy: The greatest amount of force down on the piston must occur during the period just AFTER the crank pin crosses the dead center line, and last as long as possible while the piston has good leverage against the crank (hasn't gone down too far).

Things that work against you are: As the piston starts down the hole, it accelerates rapidly. If your timing is too late, the explosion of the fuel burning doesn't catch the piston with great force. If it takes many degrees of rotation to get the fuel into the cylinder, and then catch fire and burn, the fuel at the end will not help you much.

If it's a long rod engine, with moderate stroke, the piston accelerates away from the explosion slower - so you want to inject the fuel slower and sustain the "explosion" (or burn time) longer, so as to achieve maximum force against the piston. If you inject too fast, the explosion happens when the piston hasn't much leverage on the crank and heat is absorbed into the head and piston and cylinder walls, rather than spinning the crank.

So, CRD's use pressure to determine how fast the fuel gets into the cylinder... And period of time to determine how much. Of course, changing pressure changes time required to get the same fuel.

Image

As you know, raising pressure raises temperature. About 2800 degrees F (1500C) is when Oxides of Nitrogen form (NOx). So, when you raise combustion pressure, the temperature also climbs. So, to mitigate this, the fuel is injected later, and slower, to decrease the peaks in both pressure and temperature. Also, EGR slows down the burn rate - because it decreases the oxygen molecule density -which decreases both temperature AND peak pressures.

Raising boost RAISES the density of oxygen (air) in the combustion chamber, which speeds up combustion... but it also dilutes the air/fuel ratio, which absorbs some of the heat of combustion.

Why is there retarded timing at 1800 to 2800? Well, to reduce engine drag, you don't raise the boost a lot at those speeds, since you're not using a lot of throttle and the turbo isn't spinning hard at low rpm and small amount of fuel burned. This low quantity of air tends to result in high combustion temperatures. So, to reduce them, you delay injection. Besides, when you hit the pedal, increases in fuel happen before the turbo speeds up. Once the turbo speeds up, you don't need quite as much timing advance, since the boost increases burn speed. And, you need the burn to be slightly later in the crank cycle to obtain maximum use of the fuel. Since the turbo's not boosting, and the EGR doesn't have much back pressure (and the intake doesn't have a lot of vacuum), the part throttle EGR is going to be low. Thus, NOx production has to be prevented by delaying the injection (ignition) event and keeping maximum pressures down.

So, to recap (and I hope I haven't confused everyone)

These are timed at some speeds to reduce efficiency for emissions reasons - that appears to be mostly from 1800 to about 2400 at almost every load position (some more than others).
More boost requires less advance
More boost reduces emissions, but decreases economy.
EGR appears to be used to cause a broad, more flat topped curve in cylinder pressure and temperature to prevent NOx formation above about 3000 - 3300 or so. By decreasing EGR and advance a little, you should be able to add a little fuel and a LOT more horsepower. By smoothing the light load advance curves and dropping the deep timing valey (on the 3D map) I'd guess we could get anywhere from 10 to 30% economy gains, assuming you keep your danged foot out of it :)

Our experimenting show us that when we disabled EGR, we needed about 15-25% less advance (depending on motor) to achieve proper performance at high speed. And that a small increase in advance at the 'cruising' speeds usually resulted in dramatic economy improvements - unless the motor had a lot of EGR at light load and it was disabled. These don't seem to have that, so I don't see any need for that trough in the timing. It should be a rather smooth curve.

Also, I cannot imagine any reason for having radical changes in timing from 3000 up. It should be a relatively smooth upward curve.

Please understand, that these maps were developed by engineers running the motor in a laboratory, adjusting egr, timing, and fuel quantity while observing the exhaust emissions and fuel consumption. Their first priority was emissions. That had to happen, no matter what. And, they had just these parameters to adjust. To stay comfortably below emissions requirements, they often went well beyond "just enough", so that it would never fail under testing. They used what they had to work with. And we're not as constrained as they are. Nor are we going to spew out massive amounts of pollution by making small changes to the maps. The only one you're likely to violate at all would be NOx, and unless you get crazy changing things, it will happen rarely and in small amounts - you're still being kind the world you live in.

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 4:10 pm 
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Yeti wrote:
in mine 812 , I have see the map 6 have the max value .......if this value are high , for compensate the EGR ? and cold engine ? , what do you think on decreasing it ?

the 4° and 5 ° are the same and 1° 2° and 3° had an increased negative valley , you think is when engine are on operating temp ?


I wouldn't change the one that looks like a cold map.

Ok, my opinion... Is that for #6...

3200 rpm across from left to right... should be nearly flat. I can't imagine that 94 and 100 suddenly need 576. I'm more inclined to leave it about 200.

the rest of them... similarly

Notice that in the load - 56 column, you have 171 which drops to -170 and then at 3600 spikes wildly.

If you have more fuel and boost, this looks like it should have a nice smooth curve with 170 at the top, perhaps 0 or 75 in the middle and then about 220 at the bottom ( 3600). This presumes NO egr employed.

At issue here, is that this appears to be a map that adjusts against another map... both + and - from another map. The question is which?

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 4:19 pm 
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Looking through the very first maps ( 1-12 ), I notice that the larger numbers are where you'd want the least advance. This means that 0 would be maximum advance and 4000 (highest number listed) would be least advance. Also, these maps do not dramatically vary from each other. They don't appear to have dramatic differences between them.

So, are maps 1-6(boostXrpm) if positive add to those numbers...? Do higher numbers equal less timing advance?

We could be looking at this wrong.

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 7:09 pm 
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Quote:
By your comments, I take it that there's a torque reduction that happens when you put the rig in low range or 4wd?

Also, I thought someone said there's one for lockup condition. I don't need any reduction, because I have a Suncoast.


for the first , No o (BTW) i have not found or see

the lock -up limiter is after a engine torque limiter , if you see the stock and tuned , you can see it

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 Post subject: Re: DIY ECU Flash
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 8:39 pm 
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Ok I'm technically inclined, actually I'm an automation engineer/programmer and I programmed automated test to test software and the above is over my head at the moment!

SSOOOO Yeti's I'm sorry this going to affect my mileage, HOWEVER I went and visited family today which included my brother and me roaming around my grandfather's 700+ acre farmer for about 2 hours in my 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD. Check out the photos:

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Today was awesome!

-Grant

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