Cam locking tool.

tomasnc · **Posted:** Tue Apr 29, 2014 8:55 pm

I'm getting ready to replace my rocker arms and have read up on the numerous posts on how everyone has tackled this job.

The one tool I have a question about is the cam locking tool. Several folks have bought this tool and others have completed this job w/o it.

As long as a large bar is used to counter the torque created in tightening the cam bolts I don't see the need in this tool.

So with this said do I have some members that agree with my position?

Thanks all.

Tom

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ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Apr 29, 2014 9:58 pm

Geordi - posted this

Quote:

DO NOT WORRY about using the "factory" Miller Cam tool. Out of the last 13 CRDs that I had the chance to try it on, the tool would have properly engaged exactly ONE of them

- so I don't think he uses the 'Factory' tool.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=831200#p831200

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Apr 29, 2014 11:36 pm

tomasnc wrote:

I'm getting ready to replace my rocker arms and have read up on the numerous posts on how everyone has tackled this job.

The one tool I have a question about is the cam locking tool. Several folks have bought this tool and others have completed this job w/o it.

As long as a large bar is used to counter the torque created in tightening the cam bolts I don't see the need in this tool.

So with this said do I have some members that agree with my position?

Thanks all.

Tom

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I agree, you don't need the Miller sprocket tool, just pay attention when you torque the bolts back on the cams, balance your forces very careful so the cam shaft won't turn at all with the locking pin in it. If it does, you risk stripping the thread where the locking pin is.

lars0247 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 12, 2013 12:09 am **Posts:** 98

I used the Seely cam pin set for the VM 2.8L, and indexed the metalnerd tool close to my torque wrench, so that way I could squeeze the torque wrench and metalnerd tool together with one hand thereby guaranteeing that the loosening/tightening and holding torques would balance, so that I would not risk snapping the cam pins. If you do this operation with two hands, the balancing is only as good as your ability to equalize the forces, and you'd better not slip.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Thu May 01, 2014 11:54 am

I also used the metal nerd VW tool without any problems.

dieselguy · **Posted:** Fri May 09, 2014 11:39 pm

well I bought mine already disassembled, so I took a whole different approach. I used the 6mm and 8mm bit as some others have in a different thread for cam and flywheel. where my problem was the intake was off and I had no idea if crank was set. I have a spare engine and the flywheel has 3 different holes. one hole is 90degrees off tdc, one Hole is at tdc and theres another hole on flywheel about 2 inches from the one on tdc. now, the difference is the hole at tdc and beside tdc is bigger than the one your looking for which hits at 90 degrees from tdc or if your looking at the crank its 1/4 turn. ok guys, don't frown at me too bad but as you know when the cams are in time the keyway points at each other in center,,,, so I touched a dab of white paint on cam center of keyway, then with sprocket partially on cam touched cam in same place with white paint. something I noticed about these sprockets is the moment u apply the slightest pressure on sprocket bolt the sprocket does not move from its location on cam. so I pointed the witness marks toward each other on sprocket while I had cams in time, used a wrench and applied enough torque on bolt to ensure sprocket and cam didn't move, pulled locking pins out, used impact wrench and tightened sprocket bolts, turned witness marks back to center pointing at each other, reinstalled cam pins, set witness mark on fuel pump put timing belt on and rotated to make sure nothing did stupid. now the problem I had at first when I set my flex plate pin I hit the tdc hole and when I rotated it locked. after I figured out I was 90 degrees out all you have to do is look at bolt holes on front of crank and turn 1/4 turn and your right on money. the pins are the biggest mickey mouse junk ive ever seen. even with factory pins installed theres enough slop in each one u could still get it 1 notch out on each one. take your time,, play with it, use common sense, center everything real good, take a break drink a coke, go back and study your work, reassemble and drive on.

dieselguy · **Posted:** Fri May 09, 2014 11:47 pm

PS , never torque the cam sprocket bolts with only the locking pins holding the cam. that's why I did mine the way I did. I didn't see any way to really lock them in time while I tightened the bolts so I just ran them up with an impact. the spare engine I had was together and when I put the impact on the cam sprocket it took no effort to remove them. so I figured if I run them up and hit it for just a second they would be fine. I know that's not politically correct but it worked fine for me. also make sure the crank is 90 degrees beyond tdc or you will not have a nice day spinning the cams with the impact once the valves find the top of the piston.

Cam locking tool.

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