Jeep pumping water into over flow

jlgail4309 · **Posted:** Sat May 24, 2014 10:44 am

Took it in thinking head gasket. Got it back with a bad hose and thermostat and new fan clutch. Is that possible. It's not pumping water any more no pressure under cap. I'm waiting for the shoe to drop. Any thoughts !! Thanks for all the help

flman · **Posted:** Sat May 24, 2014 11:16 am

jlgail4309 wrote:

Took it in thinking head gasket. Got it back with a bad hose and thermostat and new fan clutch. Is that possible. It's not pumping water any more no pressure under cap. I'm waiting for the shoe to drop. Any thoughts !! Thanks for all the help

Was your gauge reading hot? That overflow is not just a feature for CRD HG failures. :-)r

jlgail4309 · **Posted:** Sat May 24, 2014 12:11 pm

no never got hot they said it had a air lock

flman · **Posted:** Sat May 24, 2014 2:55 pm

Consider your self lucky, that a few parts were able to resolve this rather then a head gasket, and maybe a head.

jlgail4309 · **Posted:** Sat May 24, 2014 10:30 pm

Im still not sure!! Hoping for the best

geordi · **Posted:** Sun May 25, 2014 12:36 am

Which hose did they replace? Doc4444 is having the same problem that just popped up in the last few days. This is too weird of a coincidence.

He wants me to plan to come up for the HG replacement, and I'm certainly willing... But if it doesn't need that job, then I'd rather not tear into a working block if that isn't the problem. 12 solid hours of labor isn't much fun, and becomes a lot less if the problem doesn't go away after.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sun May 25, 2014 5:23 am

I will be looking for someone with a CO sniffer this week to confirm what I think is obvious.

DOC

flman · **Posted:** Sun May 25, 2014 7:26 am

Does Doc have pressure under the cap of a cold engine? Only one leak that can allow pressure to enter but not escape that I know of?

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Sun May 25, 2014 8:20 am

Did you try bleeding the air? Pop the air bleed on the radiator and fill with the correct coolant until fluid comes out of the bleed. You may need to do it several times.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun May 25, 2014 8:55 am

AFAIK, this coolant in the overflow happened spontaneously, and his water system has not been opened since the timing job 10k miles prior - several weeks to a couple months, somewhere around my trip out west.

That would suggest against an air bubble still being there, but it *has* been Spring in the NE, where Summer temps have already started in the South. I suppose if his thermostat wasn't functioning (or fully) then it could have prevented the coolant from ever reaching full temp / expanding during cooler weather... But that seems exceedingly unlikely.

The gas test will be the final nail - if exhaust is present in the coolant, that is definitive.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun May 25, 2014 9:37 am

MRausch82 wrote:

Did you try bleeding the air? Pop the air bleed on the radiator and fill with the correct coolant until fluid comes out of the bleed. You may need to do it several times.

An old mechanics trick that I have used many times on vehicles with great success when filling a cooling system.
When venting the antifreeze out the top of the radiator bleed; have the vehicle parked on an slight uphill incline. This helps get any trapped air bubbles out of the block and head! :idea:

flman · **Posted:** Sun May 25, 2014 10:21 am

WWDiesel wrote:

MRausch82 wrote:

Did you try bleeding the air? Pop the air bleed on the radiator and fill with the correct coolant until fluid comes out of the bleed. You may need to do it several times.

An old mechanics trick that I have used many times on vehicles with great success when filling a cooling system.
When venting the antifreeze out the top of the radiator bleed; have the vehicle parked on an slight uphill incline. This helps get any trapped air bubbles out of the block and head! :idea:

I did all that stuff before I changed my HG. :dizzy:

jlgail4309 · **Posted:** Sun May 25, 2014 1:27 pm

The upper hose was replaced. I pulled trailer yesterday it pumped water a bubbled in the over flow tank. Turned around and came home had to add a 3/4 of a gallon of coolant. Got home. Let it set came back out the over flow was empty. Drove it hasn't done it again. Called my tech he says air lock. I think it the head. But were the water going.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun May 25, 2014 1:52 pm

As the engine cools, the contraction pulls the water back from the overflow tank into the main section. This design is different from most other, in that the coolant bottle is an active participant in the coolant loop, rather than just being the high point and a dead end.

jlgail4309 · **Posted:** Sun May 25, 2014 2:20 pm

Could he be right or it a head gasket

flman · **Posted:** Sun May 25, 2014 4:14 pm

geordi wrote:

As the engine cools, the contraction pulls the water back from the overflow tank into the main section. This design is different from most other, in that the coolant bottle is an active participant in the coolant loop, rather than just being the high point and a dead end.

If it is getting a gas pressure such as a HG leak, it will not create a vacuum as it cools, sounds like jlgail4309 has a HG problem.

jlgail4309 I know it is hot out, but could you turn on your heat, and note weather it gets cooler with more acceleration on a drive?

How much air can really get locked in this system with the coolant bottle being the high point? :roll:

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sun May 25, 2014 6:42 pm

geordi wrote:

As the engine cools, the contraction pulls the water back from the overflow tank into the main section. This design is different from most other, in that the coolant bottle is an active participant in the coolant loop, rather than just being the high point and a dead end.

This correct but your cooling system is the same design as all others in the last 20+ years.

racertracer · **Posted:** Mon May 26, 2014 1:34 am

Best way I found to get the air out of the head was to use a a 5/8" dia. plastic flushing tee at the top near the upper most heater hose and then find the steepest hill, point the nose of the crd to the sky stop and open the cap on the tee. Look at the bottom of this web page, it's part of the "Flush And Fill Kit" and it has a few different sizes.

http://prestone.com/products/car_care/a ... oduct_list

Then listen for the air to escape, close the tee, take a long drive and do it again till you know the air has stopped. Then remove the tee and reinstall the OEM hose.

You don't need to cut the OEM hose to install the tee, just disconnect it, install the tee and use a 5" piece of a separate heater hose so that the original oem heater hose remains intact for reuse.

Doc, I had my my system tested for exhaust leaks by using a probe and it didn't detect a leak. It was a tech at the state of Connecticut emission testing station.

Diesel exhaust leaks are difficult to detect with a probe. The NAPA diesel exhaust leak detector kit is what I used and it is conclusive. The kit is made by Lisle

here is the kit info: http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/prod ... roduct=406

and you will need the diesel fluid too.

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/prod ... category=8

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon May 26, 2014 8:41 am

One item that has not been mentioned; if your EGR system is still all connected, and you develop a small leak in the EGR cooler, the engine will actually ingest and pass the water through the intake and out the exhaust. A small EGR cooler leak internally may only leak after the engine gets up to operating temperature and leak once the pressure in the cooling system forces coolant out the leak. This type of leak can account for a continued loss of coolant when no other leak can be found.
Simple Fix: Remove the EGR system, cooler, hoses, etc.. and cap everything off....

jlgail4309 · **Posted:** Mon May 26, 2014 2:08 pm

Haven't had any problems since adding coolant. I going to take back to the shop tomm. Going to tow my travel trailer next weekend. Planning on a head gasket.

Jeep pumping water into over flow

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