strange noise

Yeti · **Posted:** Fri May 30, 2014 11:22 am

thanks for understanding, I understand what pipe you describe is what comes under the FCV, I'll check that too

Yeti · **Posted:** Mon Jun 02, 2014 9:43 am

I tried the trick with the screwdriver, the hydraulic tappets, there is just a tac tac, while on the injectors, you break through your ears, and all 4 are ticking rhythm, but the 2nd looks more gloomy, I have not found other loud noises , what I noticed is that doing an oil change, this time I used an oil more dense, a 10w40, the engine has become more 'quiet at idle, but the beat is, I've already tried a diesel purge, but without results , I'll try to add 2t synthetic oil in fuel and look what happen

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Jun 02, 2014 10:18 pm

Yeti, I was just thinking it could be the fan, you still have e the stock one? I replaced the mechanical fan on the 300sd I have and when the electric runs, I hear a noise exactly like a helicopter... Just an idea...

Yeti · **Posted:** Tue Jun 03, 2014 2:21 am

I have changed with the hayden , but I'm sure is not the fan , because if I add an additive to increase the cetane the noise increase

Auberon · **Posted:** Tue Jun 03, 2014 5:02 am

A thought - if that cetane improver contains excessive Nitrates it might explain this noise. Apparently, they can be a contributor to knocking noises.

Yeti · **Posted:** Tue Jun 03, 2014 5:33 am

I think it's related to something wrong with the injection , how to get the oil 2t I try

Yeti · **Posted:** Sat Jun 07, 2014 7:08 am

nothing has changed even adding two-stroke oil, turn feels more fluid, but the beat remains, at this point I think that the engine is ok, I will concentrate on the automatic transmission, as soon as I have the money to pay the mechanic

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Jun 07, 2014 9:27 am

Yeti, I agree with others on here, I would check or have checked the torque converter bolts next and rule them out as the problem.
You have ran motor without serpentine belt so that has ruled out all the pulleys, mechanical fan, etc.. on the front of the motor.
You stated: Fuel additives change the tone or frequency of the noise, very strange, still thinking on that one :shock:

Have you tried using a listing stick? If not, get yourself a long wooden dowel stick about a meter long and about 10-13 mm in diameter and touch it to various non-rotating parts of your engine/transmission/exhaust while it is running and place the other end up to your ear while cupping your hand over the end of the stick to make a listing rod. Sound will travel through the rod to your ear and you may be able to pinpoint the exact location of where the noise is coming from. This is an old mechanics trick that I have used over the years many times to locate where the noise is coming from and diagnose the exact problem. :wink:

Keep us posted as to what you find!!! :!:

Yeti · **Posted:** Sat Jun 07, 2014 1:28 pm

what I noticed is that after I warmed up the engine taking a ride, I have a ticking noise, more strong coming from the bell of the automatic transmission.........or engine .........but seem the AT , when they are in D and are parked, when I move the selector to the P Ticking noise decreases, unfortunately, I can not hear very well when they are in P and when rev the knocking are still there , but I feel very good about 1800-2000 rpm ........... is more intense in that range .......... I 'd love to hear the noise when I'm accelerating, this noise is more avvertibilie when the gas is constant and less when accelerating i think to lift the kj and rev the engine

Auberon · **Posted:** Sun Jun 08, 2014 8:16 am

When I play the recordings the noise is not really apparent when the microphone is level with the transmission level on either side.
I was hoping I have this right; Yeti please correct me if I have it wrong.
The noise happens in Park as well as Drive.
To you, whilst driving, it appears to emanate from the bell housing area but in the recording it was only apparent at the front of the front of engine bay.
It does the following:
is proportional to engine revs. until 1800 - 2000 rpm.
still happened when the belt was removed.
is always there to your ear (on the spot I always best)
settles after 1800 - 2000 rpm engine speed in drive.
It is apparent under more stable moderate to heavy load and to a lesser extent under no load (even at idle).

Questions if I may:
Is it different between Neutral and Park?
Is it resent if you load the drive with the e-brake and lightly apply throttle in Drive?
Does it change when you pre-select 1st, 2nd the D and push out to 1800 - 2000 rpm whilst moving?
Does it happen in reverse at the same engine speeds?

How good is the condition of your harmonic balancer? I recall you wrote the noise was still present when the belt was removed.
Issue I have is the noise was only really evident at the front of the engine bay in the recordings. The only pulley still running is the harmonic balancer hence, my question.
Good luck in chasing it down.

Yeti · **Posted:** Sun Jun 08, 2014 12:16 pm

Auberon wrote:

is proportional to engine revs. until 1800 - 2000 rpm.
still happened when the belt was removed.
is always there to your ear (on the spot I always best)
settles after 1800 - 2000 rpm engine speed in drive.
It is apparent under more stable moderate to heavy load and to a lesser extent under no load (even at idle). I can't hear in the cockpit when on idle

Questions if I may:
Is it different between Neutral and Park? no difference but is less audible
Is it resent if you load the drive with the e-brake and lightly apply throttle in Drive?I'll try it
Does it change when you pre-select 1st, 2nd the D and push out to 1800 - 2000 rpm whilst moving? yes persist with less intensity , as long as the engine noise hides, the noise become audible early the 1800 but at 1800 -2000 is more strong
Does it happen in reverse at the same engine speeds?I do not know

How good is the condition of your harmonic balancer? I recall you wrote the noise was still present when the belt was removed.
Issue I have is the noise was only really evident at the front of the engine bay in the recordings. The only pulley still running is the harmonic balancer hence, my question.
Good luck in chasing it down.

what I can understand is this noise change if I change oil gradation , or increase torque in ecu , I understanding is correlated with the load .....more torque less load , but I becoming crazy , can a failed ccv take this problem ??? the harmonic balancer when turn must be firm ?? or what ?

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

is the noise similar between your tune and the stock tune?

Yeti · **Posted:** Sun Jun 08, 2014 2:04 pm

GreenDieselEngineering wrote:

is the noise similar between your tune and the stock tune?

Yes is similar , but change a little bit , example if i tuned the ecu with more torque and fuel ,approximately 15 % the noise intensity persist at same range 1800-2000 , but is muffled , if I increase the turbo of 100 point in all range 1000 to 4000 rpm and to 19 % load to 100% load the noise increase a bit , and it seems that if I move the torque changing the turbo value in different mode , the sound moves together with it , I also have a ccv that leak a little bit oil and I do not want the turbo suck air not signed by the maf and changing the combustion but in this case I hypothesize

what make me crazy is this :

react with external temperature , today is hot........24-25 celsius and the noise is less audible ,

the speeches that I have done in the last period are:
glow plugs
sleeve air filter that goes to the turbine
second-generation diesel filter housing
manifold egr broken ............ and tried to plug it and then put back the original
egr valve
viscous Hyden 2905
cleaning injectors with Sintoflon
timing belt but not water pump
belt and pulley, but not the alternator and belt tensioner
boiled the oil in At this winter in a heavy snow , changed the oil in two time and filter and the internal solenoid

I can not hear any noise in the belt , a part a little bit the alternator pulley , but is not the noise I hear in the cock pit .........some time is like a ......tum tum , I have a little sign on the turbo cac hose , but not leak , the only noise I can hear is a tin tin on engine under the hood , but change with oil gradation , example with a Mobil 1 0w40 turbo diesel , I hear this ...tin tin ...seem arrive down the ccv and with the 10w 40 is less present , but is not the same noise i hear in the cockpit
I do not now if it can be of help , but i live at 1500 mt slm .......4920 ft

Yeti · **Posted:** Sun Jun 08, 2014 3:31 pm

another example

K&N filter , more noise , Mann Filter , less ..........but there is
idem if I disable the EGR and open the FCV , more noise
I have no DTC's , and I think the problem is were there are no sensor , air intake early the turbo and after the maf , manifold and muffler , but I'm became crazy :dizzy:

now I have the stock tune

the noise is similar at the old diesel when cold ........or when you are packing the engine on a manual transmission does not shift down going up hill, for example, wanting force to come up with the 3rd gear, here is the Knocking noise is very similar to this situation, but less obvious

Auberon · **Posted:** Mon Jun 09, 2014 12:01 pm

Thanks for the answers to my questions. Will continue pondering and trying to put together for a while.

A failing harmonic balancer can sound like a little hammer going tap tap tap deep inside the engine. When it is completely failed it can also sound like a badly slipping belt. Possibly, when you changed to the heavier oil it may have had a dampening effect to the possible tendency to flex in the crankshaft. It is, after all, a relatively low revving motor anyway compared to a petrol engine.
I think your ear is well trained for unusual noises in an engine and you have probably picked up the early signs that others may miss when they are heading for a possible pulley failure like this. If left unchecked it could do some damage to the bottom end. Mr Royce (I think it was) did not invent the harmonic balancer for no reason.

Re the harmonic balancer itself, there should be no movement when you try to move the inner/outer parts in relation to one another by hand. Too much leverage should not be used (by hand only). There should also be no noticeable movement in the vertical plane when it's running nor radially. When you try (by hand) to move the outer inertial annulus in relation to the hub there should be no play through the bonded rubber isolator and no metal to metal contact.
Some have been known to tap with a chasing hammer to make sure there are no cracks in either the hub not the outer annulus. The different sound is very distinctive. The pulleys sound really dead when this is gently (stress VERY lightly) tapped on the front face.
If it sounds metallic it is probably starting to separate.

I could find no videos that described what I am trying to say better so we are stuck with my poorly chosen words.

The Gates site has quite a good presentation on the determination of serviceability of the OAD pulley for the alternator.

If you are noticing a pattern of premature failures in the accessory drive belt these two pulleys (OAD & Harmonic balancer) may be a causal factor.
Regarding your last post: If you keep the accessory belt running well (smoothly) then this lessens the need to change the tensioner and the idlers. I replace the accessory belts each 50 000 km (approx.). Easy done and keeps it all happy and easy to do.
Confused by the comment regarding he K&N compared to Mann filter. Hmmm.
Good luck.

SargeIndustries · **Posted:** Mon Jun 09, 2014 3:33 pm

check your torque converter bolts. They backed out twice on mine. The head of the bolts are knocking off the cast aluminum engine to transmission adapter as the bolts back out. It will sound like a loud diesel knock when this is occurring. The sooner you check this the less you will be egging out your flex plate and torque converter bolts holes...

Yeti · **Posted:** Mon Jun 16, 2014 3:37 am

I load the drive with the e-brake and lightly apply throttle ..........the noise increase and are present in all range

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jun 22, 2014 8:52 pm

Yeti,
Did you ever get to the bottom of what was making the strange noise :dizzy:

in your CRD? :?:

Grazie mille!

Yeti · **Posted:** Mon Jun 23, 2014 2:19 pm

Thanks WW , not yet, I have to recover money for the mechanic , I have changed the oil with a 10w40 and the noise seem changed like an intake leak , not whistling , but like a frrrrrrrrr , I have ordered a two OmixAda hose from RockAuto , I hope some one look down here :oops:

Yeti · **Posted:** Sat Jun 28, 2014 7:00 am

tried the HEM but nothing change , I thought it was the CCV gone , can a bad MAF sensor near to fail make this problem ??? I think if it's a mechanical failure it would always be the same, while an electrical fault may fluctuate changing behavior , next step I'll try to change my MAF , any one know if there are a valid substitute ???? or I need the original ??

thanks in advance

strange noise

Who is online