PIC- previous owner replaced filter head? Other stuff?

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 12, 2014 10:51 am

Here's a few pictures under the hood of my newly purchased CRD.

It looks like the fuel filter head was updated. I'm also noticing what appears to be either a very clean relay or a new relay. Don't know. What might be the story here?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Jun 12, 2014 11:53 am

Don't know about the relay but that's a 2gen fuel filter head which is good.

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 12, 2014 12:05 pm

papaindigo wrote:

Don't know about the relay but that's a 2gen fuel filter head which is good.

AWESOME!!! One less thing on my list.

I just contacted the service department at the dealership where most of the service was done by the previous owner. They are KINDLY emailing over a list of all service performed on the truck as well as any outstanding TSB's or Recalls.

I couldn't be happier.

bugnout · **Posted:** Thu Jun 12, 2014 2:57 pm

Think that might be the glow plug relay

CATCRD · **Posted:** Thu Jun 12, 2014 11:55 pm

bugnout wrote:

Think that might be the glow plug relay

Yes, it is.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Jun 13, 2014 8:24 am

If that is a new glow plug relay then I wonder if you have the OEM replacement 5v metal glow plugs instead of the original 7v ceramics. That would be a good thing. As I recall you can tell which glow plugs you have by the color of a band on the top but I forget what color are involved. Should be easy to check on #1 or 2 glow plug but maybe the data from the Dealer will answer the question.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Fri Jun 13, 2014 9:19 am

papaindigo wrote:

As I recall you can tell which glow plugs you have by the color of a band on the top but I forget what color are involved.

viewtopic.php?p=817820#p817820

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 14, 2014 10:14 am

papaindigo wrote:

If that is a new glow plug relay then I wonder if you have the OEM replacement 5v metal glow plugs instead of the original 7v ceramics. That would be a good thing. As I recall you can tell which glow plugs you have by the color of a band on the top but I forget what color are involved. Should be easy to check on #1 or 2 glow plug but maybe the data from the Dealer will answer the question.

I will be looking into this today while I've got a brisket on the smoker. Looking for a white or red ring on the GP.

I placed an order with GDE for the Flash Tool rental and an Eco Tune. If I understand what I've read on GDE's forum, its necessary to tell them if I have the 5v or 7v glow plugs so the PCM tune is set up properly.

Quote:

It is very important to update the engine PCM tune prior to connecting the new glow plugs. If not, the metallic plugs will be supplied with too much current and overheat. GDE has updated tunes available for any customer wishing to coordinate the hardware and software change together. The other option is to have the dealer flash the PCM with an updated stock tune. Then we can work out the details of having the GDE tune reinstalled using our flash tool loaner program. - See more at: http://www.greendieselengineering.com/j ... qRIzX.dpuf

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Jun 14, 2014 11:17 am

Yes GDE will need to know whether you have 7v or 5v glow plugs. Hopefully you will find one or the other colored ring and/or the dealer info coming in the mail will indicate if the 7v ceramics were replaced with the 5v OEM metal ones.

I strongly suspect that you have the 5v OEM metal ones based on the PN on the Bosch part (0 281 003 034) and the fact that it's nice an clean. If you Google that # you get viewtopic.php?f=5&t=57915&start=20 which has a picture of the 5v "kit" including the controller.

Yes I know there is a lot of discussion about what controller is used for the 7v vs 5v glow plugs and some indication that it's the same Bosch PN and that may very well be the case as my controller has the same PN and I have 7v glow plugs (the Italian drop in ones not ceramic). However, the fact that you have what looks like a brand new controller strongly suggests recent glow plug replacement.

If you don't find a colored ring or get info from the Dealer you may want to contact Kieth at GDE about how to test for GP voltage.

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 14, 2014 11:21 am

I've been looking for the procedure to pull the most accessible GP. Is that the #1?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Jun 14, 2014 12:25 pm

You don't need to pull a GP to check for band color; all you have to do is pop off the electric connection which is sort of like a sparkplug boot. #1 is probably the easiest to get to. Grab a flashlight and pop the plastic engine cover; look down between the back of the alternator and the valve cover just in front of the "hump" in the side of the valve cover near the metal coolant tube to the EGR; you should be able to see a black electric connection that looks sort of like a "hat". You need to pull that connection which can probably be done directly if you have a long right angle plier like http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w ... 7Aodw04Ayg

Otherwise you can probably get too it if you just remove the back brace (3 bolts) for the alternator which I think you can do without disturbing the serpentine belt.

My personal suggestion though is if that dealer information is going to show up early next week then wait for it as it may answer the question without having to get your hands dirty.

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 14, 2014 1:03 pm

Dealer service info is not conclusive. I'll have to visually check. Thank you for the helpful info.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jun 15, 2014 12:13 pm

Pulling the #1 glow plug should be conclusive, the voltage will be stamped into the side of the plug. If you need to remove the alternator to get enough access to the plug, Napa sells a 36mm flat wrench that matches the fan nut. Use a 10mm deep socket (tie a string through it) as a jam, inserted through the fan pulley around the 4 o clock position. It is like $28 and they shouldn't need to order it.

The fan and shroud need to come out together, use this opportunity to modify the fan shroud into a safety cover - cut directly through the plastic just below both 10mm bolt tabs, there will be a mold-line in the plastic that you can follow. Place the cover back on top of the radiator, and make a large notch where the AC valve is. You may also want to notch the corner where the AC hose passes.

Throw away the bottom half of the shroud. The shroud itself does NOTHING to direct airflow, because it is too far away from the fan to allow for engine movement. The fan moves an amazing amount of air by itself, in spite of the shroud.

Where are you located? Please consider putting your city in your profile, it will make finding nearby help easier if you need it. Hopefully the service records will indicate that the timing belt has been done, but if not - I would start planning for that job now. The belt is 8 years old if it is original, and the mileage doesn't matter any more. It is just too old. IDparts.com sells a complete kit for $400, and help is as close as this forum.

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Sun Jun 15, 2014 12:36 pm

geordi,

I'm in North Texas in the Dallas area close to Denton.

Is there a write up on the fan shroud modification you described? I'll be getting under the hood today to do some investigation.

Thanks for the help guys. I would NOT have purchased this vehicle if it weren't for the support already here in this community.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jun 15, 2014 1:34 pm

I kinda just did the only write-up about the fan shroud mod for the way that I do it... I don't have easy access to a CRD to post some pictures, but maybe Papaindigo can post some, or OneCheekRider. Both of theirs have been done this way.

It really will be self-explanatory once you get the dang thing out. There is a thin line in the plastic below the mounting tab, I just generally saw through the plastic following that line. The tabs stay on the top side, so you can bolt the top back in place as a safety cover. You also could just leave the whole thing out, but then you'd have to be smart enough to not put your fingers into a moving fan.

I'm sure YOU are - you are already smart enough to know about this forum! But what about anyone else that might open your hood? Dealer monkeys aren't that bright, you know.... :mrgreen:

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Jun 15, 2014 1:45 pm

See viewtopic.php?f=98&t=64278&p=709322#p709322 for fan shroud mod options. geordi's is the simplest short of throwing it away entirely which I do not support.

With deference to geordi's expertise I'd try to get to the connector on the #1 GP first and pull it to see if there is a colored ring. If not and you have to pull that GP then a) I hope, more about this later, that it can be reached with appropriate extensions to a socket set BUT be extremely careful during removal to make sure the GP comes out straight and clear as it doesn't take much sideways force to snap a ceramic glow plug tip as geordi and I well know and b) if geordi says the voltage is stamped on the side of the GP I won't dispute the point except to observe that the voltage is not stamped on the side of my 7v Etecno1 drop in replacement.

If a) is not possible what geordi is not directly saying is getting to the serpentine belt tensioner (lower passenger side of the engine front) to release the belt tension and remove the alternator may be impossible without removing the fan which requires removal of the fan shroud at the same time (keep a towel or piece of plastic between the fan and the back of the radiator to avoid radiator damage - do NOT misplace the 2 fan shroud bolts as there length is critical/replacement with longer=hole in radiator). Try getting to the tensioner without removal of the fan and shroud first; it might be possible. Of course none of this matters if you are doing either/or a serpentine belt replacement or a TB job as all that has to be removed anyway. Hence the short version is if you plan a TB job soon then check the GPs as part of that job; in fact I'd get Weeks (viewtopic.php?f=5&t=78238) kit first as it makes GP access much easier especially if you already have a GDE tune.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jun 15, 2014 4:57 pm

Your Etecno plugs should have the voltage on the side - I looked at OneCheekRider's set just a few days ago, and I could swear that I saw the stamping as GX3123 7V. I know I have seen it on the Bosch metal plugs where it says 5V or 7V. Yours don't say this?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:28 am

I have 1 spare Etecno1 7v metal glow plug and it has nothing stamped on it which I find a bit surprising. Whether something was stamped on any of the other dozen or so Etecno GPs that have passed thru my hands or not I have no clue.

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:38 am

geordi wrote:

Your Etecno plugs should have the voltage on the side - I looked at OneCheekRider's set just a few days ago, and I could swear that I saw the stamping as GX3123 7V. I know I have seen it on the Bosch metal plugs where it says 5V or 7V. Yours don't say this?

Mine said Bosch 7v.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Jun 16, 2014 10:12 pm

Bosch 7v are the original ceramic plugs. Don't drop them or tweak them sideways near the cylinders... Or you will be having a VERY unhappy day.
You don't need to think about replacing them --at this time-- but if you get a code for them, then they should be replaced pronto. The suggested replacement would be the 7v Etecno plugs sold by IDparts, in concert with the Weeks101 elbow kit that will make installing them suck a LOT less.

Papaindigo: Is it possible that one you have remaining is one of the original beta-test or early versions? I don't recall my original Etecno plugs having anything on them either, possibly because they hadn't yet become an official product. The new ones absolutely have stampings on them however.

PIC- previous owner replaced filter head? Other stuff?

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